Why I use cut paste to seal some wounds

I wanted to add that for those using traditional cut paste, here is a tip. This is according to the well known Gary Ishii from Chikugo-En whom I had a fairly lengthy conversation about well... cut paste of all things! He says a lot of people just glob on the stuff onto the wounds. For best callousing results use only as thinly as possible over the cuts.
 
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Just figured that I would chime in that I have also heard exterior grade wood glue works from experienced folks. At a demo, after the instructor chopped the top portion of the tree of he rubbed the exposed piece with alcohol and then applied the glue. After that he took a piece of bark from the chopped piece and applied to the glue to hide the chopped part as much as possible.
 
No problem Dave! Let me clarify that this tip was mainly for deciduous trees. More specifically my conversation with Gary was focused on Japanese maples and how to best make cuts and treat the wounds.
 
I actually make my own with beeswax, honey, and canola oil. Works great but after this batch is finished, I plan on trying Titebond III (wood glue). I read good things about it.

I'd do a non see-able test of Titebond III. It is a permanent waterproof glue. Elmers is water soluble and with time will dissolve and wash away.

Not saying the healing wouldn't cover Titebond III or that the callous wouldn't push the glue off the tree in time. Just saying that I use it on outdoor wood projects where glue is needed because it is going to remain in place for ever or till the wood rots away from it.
 
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