BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
What, its simply a matter of just letting your trees grow, unchecked for long periods. That means no pinching, no defoliating, no fiddling, just leaving to grow out. Its actually quite simple
Liquid cut paste vs putty cut paste
- Thread starter pandacular
- Start date
Ply
Mame
Ryan Neil states that the liquid kind (Callus Mate) - contrary to the paste - does not hold air out or hold water/moisture in, it's only a stimulant to promote callus formation, and does that very well. He advises the liquid kind for tears and small wounds, the paste for larger wounds.
Happened to just have watched a Mirai stream in which he covered that.
Happened to just have watched a Mirai stream in which he covered that.
pandacular
Masterpiece
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Hmm.. Not sure if @Walter Pall has any azaleas in his collection… yet leaving big cuts unsealed is asking for the wound to die back into the trunk and continue rotting all the way down to the roots.
No opinion on other trees, except if one doesn’t spray alcohol or the like and cut paste on maple cuts in the fall once the rains kick in in our area, one is asking for an infected maple
Slapping putty or cut paste on a branch break wouldn’t work well with azaleas. I’ve tested it multiple times.
The result is the wound doesn’t heal. Examination showed the treatment seeped into the wound and prevented the cambium/phloem from reattaching.
For bending breaks the best treatment I’ve found what actually works is realigning the edges and wrapping the area tightly with parafilm…. even over and aligned with the existing wire.
Done this multiple times. In fact I did this about 6 times in the 10 azaleas I bent. (3 on one tree…it is a very brittle cultivar)
See tree on left.
Healing depends on season. Usually solid by the time the wire comes off.
On the other hand, treating large areas where a branch etc is removed on an azalea, a combo of Jin Seal and the brown cut paste hastens healing and prevents the wounds from dying back into the trunk.
Anyways that’s my data dump for today.
Cheers
DSD sends
No opinion on other trees, except if one doesn’t spray alcohol or the like and cut paste on maple cuts in the fall once the rains kick in in our area, one is asking for an infected maple
Slapping putty or cut paste on a branch break wouldn’t work well with azaleas. I’ve tested it multiple times.
The result is the wound doesn’t heal. Examination showed the treatment seeped into the wound and prevented the cambium/phloem from reattaching.
For bending breaks the best treatment I’ve found what actually works is realigning the edges and wrapping the area tightly with parafilm…. even over and aligned with the existing wire.
Done this multiple times. In fact I did this about 6 times in the 10 azaleas I bent. (3 on one tree…it is a very brittle cultivar)
See tree on left.
Healing depends on season. Usually solid by the time the wire comes off.
On the other hand, treating large areas where a branch etc is removed on an azalea, a combo of Jin Seal and the brown cut paste hastens healing and prevents the wounds from dying back into the trunk.
Anyways that’s my data dump for today.
Cheers
DSD sends
Just curious Bobby, are you promoting this method of growing out trees?What, its simply a matter of just letting your trees grow, unchecked for long periods. That means no pinching, no defoliating, no fiddling, just leaving to grow out. Its actually quite simple
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
Sure, on healthy trees wounds will begin to callus quickly with strong, unrestricted bouts of growth, with or without cut paste.
Its true that some species are quicker to callus than others, or not much at all, no big deal.
Its true that some species are quicker to callus than others, or not much at all, no big deal.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
Mr. Pall is correct about cut paste, but its effectiveness depends largely on what it is being used on and when. Walter has for the most part, trees that are well past initial collection and in stages of more advanced development. It may also depend on your local climate, as well. Local climate that is hot and dry is not great for pruning wounds. They can dry out quickly and you get die back. For instance, American hornbeam will die back significantly if large chop wounds aren't sealed at collection. Bald cypress can lose root buttressing if the nebari isn't buried to prevent sun exposure (not sealing per se, but its the same effect)
Not sealing large pruning wounds on trees as they're collected is asking for trouble, as is not using cut paste on large wounds on Satsuki azaleas. Both need the added moisture conservation that sealants provide. Over the years, I have gone from thinking cut paste isn't necessary to "it depends" on species and if a tree has been recently collected/drastically reduced.
Not sealing large pruning wounds on trees as they're collected is asking for trouble, as is not using cut paste on large wounds on Satsuki azaleas. Both need the added moisture conservation that sealants provide. Over the years, I have gone from thinking cut paste isn't necessary to "it depends" on species and if a tree has been recently collected/drastically reduced.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
I've been a member of Mirai since 2019 and I have never heard him say that. Your second statement is correct. Callusmate does seal, and it seals better than the paste as it dries as a malleable "latex-kinda" paint. Liquidambar O. trunk chop sealed with Callusmate a little over 2 weeks ago.
I use both, depending on the tree. The main benefit I see if giving the tree a little time to compartmentalize and prevents some fast die back. The paste works great on ficus, I usually move the latex around to seal the wound, then place the paste on top. I have notice faster wound haling by doing so, vs letting the tree heal by itself. Both the Callusmate and the paste I use have hormones, so they speed up the process.
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Yes, I agree. I can absolutely confirm that the liquid paste provides a waterproof seal. Use it to seal a bleeding tree, and you will get a "blister" with fluid behind the paste. You have to perforate the paste (with a knife or needle) in order to allow the fluid to drain.
Ply
Mame
https://live.bonsaimirai.com/library/video/deciduous-wound-healing . He talks about callus mate at 1:21:30.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
Well, watched it again... don't know why he would say that because the main function he uses it is to prevent embolic reaction on branches to accelerate healing and prevent die-back. What he says right after that is a complete contradiction on how Callusmate works, and its a completely oxymoron statement against their sale ad.
Waterproof will not let water (or air) in or out. By experience, this thing is the most waterproof sealant for bonsai in the market, Top Jin is very similar, but I prefer Callusmate.
Waterproof will not let water (or air) in or out. By experience, this thing is the most waterproof sealant for bonsai in the market, Top Jin is very similar, but I prefer Callusmate.
Shogun610
Masterpiece
why do they upcharge the hell out of Everything
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
Cut paste wars: First episode
Ply
Mame
Good points. I would add that cut paste is indeed not always neccesary, but only IF your trees are very, very vigorous.
The problem is, in Bonsai a lot of the time our trees aren't very very vigorous. A lot of what is done in bonsai greatly reduces vigour: pinching, pruning, defoliating, root work and the cherry on top of all that is the tiny containers we place the trees in to restrict their growth.
I think @Walter Pall 's advice to not use cut paste isn't wrong necessarily, but it's too black and white and in fact it would be pretty bad advice for a lot of situations.
There are examples of people who have experimented with cut paste, and results indicate that cut paste improves healing significantly. Shibui, for example did it in this topic.
Shogun610
Masterpiece
I do use Kirikuchi and Kiyonal cut seal on tears or small breaks / wounds .. it works well and prevent branch sue back .. it has hormones to promote callus
Maiden69
Masterpiece
I really have no idea. I did a quick search and quite a few websites have a price close to $20-24 for the 100g... Jonas on the other hand have the 150g for $16... best price I found so far.
namnhi
Masterpiece
Maybe Ryan personally wrap it and ship it to you?
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
Because people will still buy it. There is a market for it.
Shogun610
Masterpiece
Haha yooo don’t get me startedHave you seen the newly-listed stone bonsai pots?
Last edited:
Similar threads
