What to do with a straight-trunk privet?

[Soup Dragon]

A few years ago I found a discarded trunk + rootball on the sidewalk. Someone had obviously tired of the plant and had thrown it away. The trunk had been chopped at approximately 18 inches / 45 cm., and was just a straight cylinder. I gave it a quick scratch, and as it was green under the bark I took it home to 'save' it. Sure enough, being a hardy privet, new shoots appeared at the top of the trunk, and grew rapidly.

As it was a boring straight trunk, I thought I would have to do something creative, and thus my first ever carving project was attempted. It is very amateurish, as you will see. Somewhat inspired by pictures of lightening-damaged trees like the one on this first picture below, I set to work.



After a couple of years, this is what I have:



I realize now that I should have reduced the trunk before letting it grow out, as it is too long and cylindrical. I could fix the amateur carving to make it look better, and perhaps distract from the lack of taper, but I'm not sure that would be enough. I think I ought to air-layer it to make it shorter, and my first thought was to do so at the point shown be the red line below:



Doing that wouldn't help with the lack of taper, as the straight part of the trunk would still remain. So perhaps the best idea is to air-layer even higher, and have a shorter tree, as shown below:



Any thoughts on what would would work best would be most appreciated. I am always stunned by the creative insight of people on this site.

Many thanks.

 

[Zach Smith]

Just my humble opinion, but I don't think you'd get back more than you give up by chopping this one again. You've done a great job developing it, given what you started with. Very nice work.

If you want a privet that looks different, get another one and have at it!

 

[sorce]

The second portion you have now is the perfect height to continue developing it, just needs thickness.

Sorce

 

[Soup Dragon]

Just my humble opinion, but I don't think you'd get back more than you give up by chopping this one again. You've done a great job developing it, given what you started with. Very nice work.

If you want a privet that looks different, get another one and have at it!

I probably didn't explain my thoughts very well. I meant to air-layer it to take the top part as a shorter tree; not to chop it to grow out the bottom part. In any case, what you say makes a lot of sense. There is only so much that can be done with a cylinder! I'll avoid any major surgery on this one. I do have a few privets in the ground that I can develop into more interesting shapes.

Thank you!

 

[Soup Dragon]

The second portion you have now is the perfect height to continue developing it, just needs thickness.

Sorce

I'll let it grow out next season to thicken it up. Thanks for your help.

 

[Potsofgreen]

i would take that carved area all the way down to right near the base to break up the cylinder a bit more and give it some different hollows, angles and depth and let dry out next summer to crack naturally. and then this spring I would repot to a colander or root trainer to get more root growth and faster thickening up top. Just my opinion but it definitely looks good for a discarded piece that was headed for the trash. good job!

 

[sorce]

grow out next season

Probly a couple next seasons too!

Sorce

 

[Shibui]

Taper does not always need to be actual taper. In bonsai visual weight or taper is often enough. The shari you have already put in that trunk reduces the visual weight of the trunk. The tapering shari also means that the visual weight of that trunk reduces as the eye climbs the trunk. What you have now is way better than a cylinder and I would be tempted to develop what you have rather than taking steps backward for little gain.

Increasing the foliage density on the branches will help a lot.
If you can get buds a little lower on the right side it would help to reduce that side a little and have the first branch lower. You could try just chopping that branch hard to try for new buds or approach graft something down lower.

The higher proposed layer will not achieve much except a shorter tree and will need to be combined with a reduction of the new leader to bring it together.
Lower layer gets rid of the wider lower trunk and buttress and really does not achieve much except a shorter tree.

 

[Soup Dragon]

Taper does not always need to be actual taper. In bonsai visual weight or taper is often enough. The shari you have already put in that trunk reduces the visual weight of the trunk. The tapering shari also means that the visual weight of that trunk reduces as the eye climbs the trunk. What you have now is way better than a cylinder and I would be tempted to develop what you have rather than taking steps backward for little gain.

Increasing the foliage density on the branches will help a lot.
If you can get buds a little lower on the right side it would help to reduce that side a little and have the first branch lower. You could try just chopping that branch hard to try for new buds or approach graft something down lower.

The higher proposed layer will not achieve much except a shorter tree and will need to be combined with a reduction of the new leader to bring it together.
Lower layer gets rid of the wider lower trunk and buttress and really does not achieve much except a shorter tree.

This is really helpful. Thank you.

 

[LanceMac10]

Doesn't look bad for what you started with, as mentioned. Put it in/on a gnarly container....theme plays....

 

[Soup Dragon]

i would take that carved area all the way down to right near the base to break up the cylinder a bit more and give it some different hollows, angles and depth and let dry out next summer to crack naturally. and then this spring I would repot to a colander or root trainer to get more root growth and faster thickening up top. Just my opinion but it definitely looks good for a discarded piece that was headed for the trash. good job!

Thanks! Yeah, the carving needs to be done properly, no matter what. I need to get hold of the right drill bits that let me get inside the trunk, but that is a worthwhile investment for other projects too. I will get it into something bigger to help it thicken too.

Thank you.

 

[Soup Dragon]

Doesn't look bad for what you started with, as mentioned. Put it in/on a gnarly container....theme plays....

I will get something gnarly lined up . Thanks.

 

[ConorDash]

Yeah honestly this looks cool man.

For me I think the tree maybe needs a fresh lease of life.. It would be a step back in the short term but allowing it to grow wild, in the ground or bigger pot. Allow thickening, cut some back to get back budding on the trunk perhaps, for maybe 1 or 2 more primaries, let them run for thickness... Just more bulk.. more wild. I think the tree needs to be reintroduced to the wild.

 

[Soup Dragon]

Yeah honestly this looks cool man.

For me I think the tree maybe needs a fresh lease of life.. It would be a step back in the short term but allowing it to grow wild, in the ground or bigger pot. Allow thickening, cut some back to get back budding on the trunk perhaps, for maybe 1 or 2 more primaries, let them run for thickness... Just more bulk.. more wild. I think the tree needs to be reintroduced to the wild.

That's certainly something I could consider - I have space to plant it. I don't suppose there is any bad time to plant trees in the ground, is there? There are pretty strict rules about digging them up. I would be careful not to disturb the roots too much of course.

Thanks!

 

[Soup Dragon]

A quick update. Whilst waiting for spring I lengthened the 'hollowed' part of the trunk to make it a little more realistic. I will get it into a bigger pot or the ground in a couple of months.

 

[coachspinks]

A quick update. Whilst waiting for spring I lengthened the 'hollowed' part of the trunk to make it a little more realistic. I will get it into a bigger pot or the ground in a couple of months.

View attachment 347394View attachment 347395View attachment 347396

I like what you have done. I think there is a spot for none traditional trees on most benches.
Letting the top fill in and putting it into a "gnarly" pot will make a huge difference in the overall presentation. Is there a way you can pull the top forward a bit? Either with wire or when you repot?

 

[Soup Dragon]

Is there a way you can pull the top forward a bit? Either with wire or when you repot?

Good point. Perhaps a combination of wire at the topmost section and planting angle. I could build a new apex if I get (or graft) a forward-facing branch. Thanks.

 

[Paradox]

Good Lord.....I wouldnt chop that. You have made a very convincing copy of the example tree in the picture. It looks really good!

The only thing I would be concerned about is rot in the dead wood so you are probably going to have to take steps try preserve it

 

[Soup Dragon]

Thank you.

The only thing I would be concerned about is rot in the dead wood so you are probably going to have to take steps try preserve it

Yes. I've been looking through all of the threads on wood hardener, etc. to find out what options are out there for preserving deadwood. I have used lime sulphur on other trees, but that bleached look doesn't look natural on most broad-leaved trees.

 

[Forsoothe!]

I'll bet that @BobbyLane will tell you to grow out what you have because you do have something and some time invested and it ain't bad even though it may not be perfect. There are a plethora trees on this site that are much poorer in concept and you should regard what you have as in-process, to be worked and grown into something better. I wanna hear from Bobby.