Use of humic and fulvic

@cmeg1 got all my stuff now, including water distiller, my plan so far is to add humic tomorrow with kelp to basically everything, anything in organic is planned for fulvic in 14 days is this correct?

Jbp are in much more free draining soil so I'm thinking possibly fulvic foliar in 7 days?

is this too much kelp if I use it for both? I've read from you about kelp being hot?

Are there any plants that this is not safe or compatible with such as azaleas which i am careful with ferts
Kelp and fulvic as foliar no more than once a week……can be watered into soil or media every watering….. if your soil is very open, consider the black humic acid as it clings to media better the fulvic acid of orange color is for nutrient absorption more into the membranes and cells…….. I use a lot of fulvic acid in my media also as then I can lower my salt by 20%, the NPK salts……… because the Fulvic acid will increase fertilizer absorption by 20% so there’s more water and less salt.!!!

Ro water combined with this is great as there is only the ions and nutrients needed…….with ro water you will need to add some calmag to the media solution……calmag is a much more plant freindly calcium and magnessium
 
Thank you so much for your help @cmeg1

I know you say to use pure water for foliar so I am distilling ready for this, is it ok to use tap water for soil drench?

I'm not sure of my filters accuracy but my tap water is 230 ppm, distilled is reading 0ppm
 
Thank you so much for your help @cmeg1

I know you say to use pure water for foliar so I am distilling ready for this, is it ok to use tap water for soil drench?

I'm not sure of my filters accuracy but my tap water is 230 ppm, distilled is reading 0ppm
I would use the benefits of distilled for both……..less salts and more water…….tend to over fertilize with tap……..Already at and almost beyond seesling and early veg strength with mostly unuseable ion………Hydrologic makes nice ro filters…..mine was only $130 the micro 75.

I preder a more hydrated plant with more photosynthetic energy as opposed to the high terpene and oils of salt constricted water uptKe…..for veggies and annuals this is great during ripening……but I deemed it unnessesary for trees really……Slower growth achieves the same if not better effect.
I never fertilize over 1.4 ec
This would be extremely strong in an tap water………eapeciallt chloromine and chlorine absolutely suck!!!
Definately a plant and growth dwarfing thing going on there…….chloromine is far worse as its mixed with ammonia and takes months to evaporate.
3BB89463-3870-4825-85E0-74D14F43E741.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I have already purchased a distiller before finding out about RO, I will see how i get on producing enough distilled as my distiller was around £100 and my readings are from 230 to 0 ppm before and after distilling.

My 'full up' was all clogged together in the pouch in a block, I was able to scrape it out easy enough with my micro teaspoon but I'm concerned, is this normal? Could it be less effective? should I return it for refund or replacement?
 
I have already purchased a distiller before finding out about RO, I will see how i get on producing enough distilled as my distiller was around £100 and my readings are from 230 to 0 ppm before and after distilling.

My 'full up' was all clogged together in the pouch in a block, I was able to scrape it out easy enough with my micro teaspoon but I'm concerned, is this normal? Could it be less effective? should I return it for refund or replacement?
an ro device couldnt get a measurement of less than 0ppm.
 
I’ve been using GS plantfoods root ruckus every other week with Alaskan fish fertilizer in between and have seen amazing results. When I saw this video, I decided I will switch to this regimen since It would knock me down to three times a month instead of once per week and I can get the fish and kelp at the same time with the Humic. I’m sold. The fish fertilizer is so thick and stinky. I’m hoping this will make feeding a little simpler and more pleasant. Although I have started to like the smell of the fish fertilizer after it’s been sprayed all the trees.
My trees are so close to my house I can’t deal with the smell and is what keeps me from going to a fish product. I wrote the GS Plantfoods folks asking them about the smell of their stuff and they never answered so I guess they figured it smelled so bad I wouldn’t buy it!
 
I use the Alaska stuff and can only smell it if I get close to the pot that day only. Next day the smell is gone. I used it around the wife and kids on the sidewalk plants and none of them said a word.

Now if you have a dog, keep it away.
 
My trees are so close to my house I can’t deal with the smell and is what keeps me from going to a fish product. I wrote the GS Plantfoods folks asking them about the smell of their stuff and they never answered so I guess they figured it smelled so bad I wouldn’t buy it!

I gassed out my back yard the other day with it. It lingered. I don’t find Neptune’s Harvest as bad. Will have to check out the Alaska stuff folks have mentioned…. After the Incident I’ve been less keen on foliar feeding. My neighbors don’t need a cloud of fish descending suddenly upon them this summer.
 
an ro device couldnt get a measurement of less than 0ppm.
Of course, but I am having a hard time producing enough distilled, I can only distill 1 gallon at a time and average 3 gallons a day produced, occasionally I have done 4.

I have seen a 6litre distiller which has a bigger tank but would take at least 2 hours longer and would still only produce 4.5 gallons on a good day total for both would be 8.5 gallons if I revolved my life around water distilling.

The smallest RO I have seen is 50 gallons a day.
 
I also had a question about fish emulsion I was bringing to @cmeg1 but open to answers from anyone

I have so far foliar fed once a week with fulvic, kelp, yucca. I am tempted to add a mid week fulvic, fish, yucca would this burn leaves?

Is there any benefit to straight fulvic or maybe with yucca as a foliar?

How often should I foliar?

@Cofga @Srt8madness @badatusernames for what its worth i use one by bio bizz and have not noticed smell when used in my jbp soil which drips out into a catch try,
I actually have an organic plant food for my veggies which projects stronger smells than this emulsion.
 
@cmeg1 i got some calmag today but we have about a week of rain, next time I feed the soil I will add some calmag

How often do you recommend using calmag?
 
@cmeg1 i got some calmag today but we have about a week of rain, next time I feed the soil I will add some calmag

How often do you recommend using calmag?
Iuse it with every watering….this is hydroponics though.

I like a constant supply……1/8tsp is good.
 
@cmeg1 after some advice with cuttings have seen you advise a 1:1 N&K to prep mother plant but curious about foliar on new cuttings?

currently soaking my privet clippings in fulvic and kelp, not sure whether to leave them in there or plant in soil

Just trimmed some potentilla and about to trim C elm both in soil with perlite and was going to try foliar with kelp?
 
OK so in a hope to avoid a war, this is not about whether or not a person believes in the use of humic or fulvic, but is aimed to get advice from people who do use it to clarify how to use it correctly.

I see people discussing using ' humic/fulvic' plus kelp, fish emulsion etc

My question is that I have bought separate humic and fulvic to use and I am not sure if I should mix them (if so at what ratio) or use them separately and alternate.

I have a decent selection of trees mostly all starter material deciduous but I do have a few evergreens and quite a lot of jbp seedlings (which take most of my ferts and are what I really bought this for)

Also do I continue to use my others ferts at the same strength after use of humic or fulvic acid?

any advice would be greatly appreciated
Hey,

Has anyone heard of or is anyone supplementing with Fulvic and Humic minerals?

What do you know about them, what are the benefits if anyone is supplementing?
 
Best thread I’ve seen on the subject:

 
Since this thread I swear by the use of biostimulants,

Make sure to use 5parts humic or fulvic to 2 parts kelp for best results

Humic goes in the soil and fulvic is a foliar feed
 
I have also been using all fulvic acid powder for the water too……this gives the opportunity to lower the total NPK portion of your nutrient.

Especially in the stonewool I grow in now the NPK or total ec of my nutrient can be kept no stronger than .6 or .7 the entire grow.
Currently for the zelkova crop it will not exceed .5 the entire grow and after the ringbarking procedure I am going to lower it even more around .2 or 3 and have the seaweed and other bio stimulants available…amino acids for calcium uptake,fulvic,kelp……along with vitamin B magnesium suppliment and weekly foliar.
This will regulate growth on zelkova bigtime.



** humic and fulvic are natural chelators( they hold onto plant ions for transport into plant cells.Fulvic is a lighter molecular weight and will carry another plant ion into a plant cell in as little as 4 hours…..great with kelp foliar and as I stated for the root zone also( beware to lower the salts significantly though or you will have too much salt uptake…resembling an fruiting type hardening autumn type vegetable phase….I do not believe trees need this.I prefer more water and less salt for better transpiration………dosing high salt in Autumn to promote terpines and oils and such and intentionally restricting water by increasing salts is a harvest vegetable thing in my opinion……not a tree thing.

So…..I have been using all fulvic acid in the media nutrient for the past two years……..Trying to replicate the ‘full genetic potential aspect’ of trees growing in basic earth across the land.

Extrememly low salt and lots and lots of bio-stimulants!!
Slower growth and less nitrogen assimilation…nitrogen assimilation can deplete 30% of the trees photosynthetic energy store……will give a very fast,but a more suseptible and weaker type of growth with larger and thinner cell walls with less naturally producing nutrient mechanisms that would occur in a more controlled or roots first growth…..where suger in the leaves and plant becomes a level of surplus…..this is called brix content!
A brix content of 12% or higher and many insects are scientifically proven not to be attracted to the plants leaves for food!

Also roots will act more natural and produce food for micro-organisms that feed off of root exudates and actually produce their own NPK right at the root level and also natural rooting hormones too…..ROOTS FIRST!

The amino acids L glycine & L glutamate ( available in a certain tech grade product will increase calcium uptake by 1000 times by creating root ion channels and not relying on the usual one ion at a time proces of calcium uptake by hydrolic water transpiration withing the plant.

I know I sound like I am tryin to sell something here,but it is the instruction I learned by studying Dutch Hydroponics classes and I have seen the results of calcium uptake increased 1000 x.

Extemely high brix with no need whatsoever of chemical fungicide.




So anyways …….humic acid is a larger molecular weight and is fantastic for nutrient as it adds mineral to pure water like rain and ro water…..and a chelator as well holding mineral ions at the root level…….there is also a percentage of fulvic acid in the humic acid to get the very high cellular absorption effect of fulvic acid……it can be used for foliar too,but in extremely low amount like 1/64th tsp or so in a pure water makes a great leaf rinse…..for daily hydration and rinsing of leaves in a pure water.



IMG_9660.jpegIMG_8869.jpegIMG_2663.jpegIMG_2203.jpegIMG_4133.jpegIMG_0660.jpegIMG_0597.jpegIMG_3979.jpegIMG_3238.jpegIMG_3234.jpegIMG_3525.jpegIMG_9634.jpegIMG_8867.jpeg
 
Last edited:
also my new toy for foliar spraying the kelp and fulvic acid…….
***do not spray the kelp onto leaves more than once a week……..makes them very ‘hot’ and will burn them…..from to much cell division ( cytokinesis).
hence the name cytokonenes!! Kelp has lots of these.
See next article from bjorn bjorholms search on this topic……a japanese article.Japanese have long known of the effects of kelp….remember the very old articles in Bonsai Today…..feed zelkova only kelp and barly any NPK??
Only bio-stimulants and correct nutrient deficiencies as they appear….not all the time.

RYOBI ONE+ 18V Cordless Battery Fogger/Mister (Tool Only) (Renewed)
https://a.co/d/7LdvvDM
 
Here is the pdf download of the article Bjorn has shown once in one of his blog posts…..



ALL OF THE DWARFING AND COMPACT GROWTH I HAVE ACHIEVED OVER THE SEASONS IS BECAUSE OF THE AUXIN BREAKING PHOENOMENA OF KELP……(.accentuated with the fulvic acid).

The other dwarfing effect is from the use of Blue Light veg only lights and light recipes.

** the very short internodes and dwarfing is largely…if not completely an effect of Kelp foliar feeding and also its regular use in the media too……it forces a plant to act as though its lost the meri-stem growth….such as in a storm damage or weather extremes and survival parameters will make backbudding to survive…….the auxin signal in plants is stopped? If I am correct.
Have not read the article in awhile.***

Kelp can be used in soil all the time every watering …..on leaves only weekly!!! with the fulvic acid…….the fulvic acid will greatly enhance its uptake in a foliar.

My pines actually sometimes get too much and will slightly yellow at the tips……or fade slightly here and there…..it is very active foliar feeding……so even at two weeks it will have a very profound effect on internodes……making backbuds without pruning at all…..( see zelkova pics below)

IMG_3382.jpegIMG_3987.jpegIMG_8982.jpegIMG_5566.jpegIMG_5504.jpegIMG_2164.jpegIMG_2165.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom