Anthony
Imperial Masterpiece
Oh so vulgar
I’ve sprinkled humic acid into some repotting media and I’m not sure if it’s done anything. I haven’t kept close watch or had control for True Science Rigor. This is something I tend to do on new repottings into extremely sterile volcanic soils and I’ll skip it when reusing old soil or when I have a partial organic mix.
I do make regular use of mycorrhizal supplements and get specific about ecto vs. endo species associations. (I don’t use the generic/mixed myco products.)
My results speak for themselves, though: I see great vigor, superb handling of stressful conditions, and nearly zero tree loss. The few seedlings I have recently lost were already compromised by external factors and then never came back after an unusually harsh winter.
Only my most temperamental species (maple and beech) have shown environmental stress, but that’s to be expected with full sun in 90°F and hotter periods. I’ve not seen water stress, so I’m confident my soils and micro-biotic conditions are excellent.
Regarding humic acid in particular—I like the critique that it’s bunk. If I correctly recall, the suggestion is it’s not a real thing and doesn’t naturally exist. The product is claimed to be entirely manmade and is only created through extreme chemical reactions as leftover material from consuming the remainder of soils. I’m not a soil scientist.
People claim freeze/thaw cycles turn akadama to mush but I haven't seen evidence of that yet and I've been experimenting with it for about 3 years. We have a lot of freeze thaw cycles. I don't use 100% akadama for anything, generally use something similar to the Boon mix.I thought it was climates that had a freeze/thaw cycle that would be worst for 100% akadama?
I used to live in FL and believe there's validity to the fact that akadama likes to dry out a bit between water or it starts to break down more quickly based on my experience. Also notice a huge difference in akadama brands. A cheaper brand versus double red line or another better brand is like comparing oil and water.People claim freeze/thaw cycles turn akadama to mush but I haven't seen evidence of that yet and I've been experimenting with it for about 3 years. We have a lot of freeze thaw cycles. I don't use 100% akadama for anything, generally use something similar to the Boon mix.
The issue I can see in Florida...akadama is highly water retentive. What does Florida get a lot of...rain. So, maybe too much water around the roots with 100% akadama.
One hundred percent, quality Portland Municipal tap water from early 20th century piping.reid, curious to know what you do for water. hose? rain? filter?
You took the words right out of my mouth.Also notice a huge difference in akadama brands. A cheaper brand versus double red line or another better brand is like comparing oil and water.
HAHAHAHAHA!! Did you mean "What's" as in "What is"?Whats akadama?
Yes!HAHAHAHAHA!! Did you mean "What's" as in "What is"?
I haven't had good results with straight Akadama either...I will say this much, in the spring I repotted several trees in 100% Akadama. I am not at all happy with the results. I am not at all into using "those new-fangled humic/fulvic acid and beneficial bacterial and fungi supplements".
Could be.. I was led to believe it was the be all and end ell of inorganic soil components. However, since it compacts so well it may be more suited to pave roads with.Sounds like something they pave roads with.
Since we're experiencing similar results, DE is not doing it for me either.I haven't had good results with straight Akadama either...
Nope, never liked it much... Akadama with pumice and lava does fine... pumice mixed with organic does well.. potting soil... but straight Akadama or DE or turface... not good for me.Since we're experiencing similar results, DE is not doing it for me either.
Ditto!Nope, never liked it much... Akadama with pumice and lava does fine... pumice mixed with organic does well.. potting soil... but straight Akadama or DE or turface... not good for me.