The Hemlock (Tsuga) Discussion THREAD.

Question ALL of your assumptions.

"Tsuga". Like that is even a word.
 
Question ALL of your assumptions.

"Tsuga". Like that is even a word.

Umm.. this doesn’t seem to be an argument with any substance... (maybe that’s the point)

“Is Tsuga even a word” seems to me a HORRIBLY inarticulate way of saying that.

Because.. a “smidgen” of “fancy book readin’”.Will say otherwise.

i get it.. it’s funny.

But if this is simply a joke in the “N00bs”... you think it would be done more eloquently... Much more believable if it “Sounds smart”

And WHY try to INTENTIONALLY mislead people who just want to learn.

I’m honestly just curious.
 
You will never be accepted into the inner circle until you stop sounding so needy. The pain is only in the resistance.

I understand what you mean.. i gotta relax.. :)

But don’t you feel that knowledge pollution is harmful to this community?
 
I can’t tell if @A. Gorilla is just trying to keep all the hemlock bonsai for himself?

Here are a couple shots of my collected one, about a month and a half apart in June/July of 2014:
 

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Foliage Colour.
Working along side a couple of Bonsai Mentors in our area here, I’ve used their tried and trusty techniques for attaining a darker almost blue/green needles/foliage. Unfortunately, the camera hasn’t captured the dark green blue colour of the foliage in the first photo as I see it ........but the comparison between the second photo should be visible. Third photo also has much darker colour than the second photo as I added a top coat of sifted bark.
The soil mix is lava, pumice and sifted bark. The bark component is from a product we get here called SeaSoil or Ocean soil which is a mix of Hemlock, balsam bark and Salmon waste from local fish process plants. It does help with the vigor/health of the tree as well as the foliage colour.... so I just go with it.
Cheers
 

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Lovin' that Sara Rayner pot!
A gift from my wife, purchased at the Artisan's Cup! Some amazing trees were on display and the vendors were outstanding. Filled the van with all sorts of goodies. A favourite moment for many were the drummers performance as they were opening the show! Pleasant memories.
 
Here are two of my Canadensis. The second is roughly half the height of the first, 37" and 19" respectively. Somehow the foliage doesn't seem to scale down. I really don't like the fuzzy look of the smaller tree. That is the reason I asked if anyone had done a shohin hemlock. Any thoughts?IMG_3774.jpegIMG_3747.jpeg
 
Here are two of my Canadensis. The second is roughly half the height of the first, 37" and 19" respectively. Somehow the foliage doesn't seem to scale down. I really don't like the fuzzy look of the smaller tree. That is the reason I asked if anyone had done a shohin hemlock. Any thoughts?View attachment 314642View attachment 314644

Wow! VERY nice...

Also... dynamite pots..

My eyes accidentally superimposed the trees in opposite pots..(third nerve palsy) and it was visually pleasing as well.
 
Here are two of my Canadensis. The second is roughly half the height of the first, 37" and 19" respectively. Somehow the foliage doesn't seem to scale down. I really don't like the fuzzy look of the smaller tree. That is the reason I asked if anyone had done a shohin hemlock. Any thoughts?View attachment 314642View attachment 314644
Two thoughts!
1. The manner in which the branches are wired for pad development is important.
2. Managing the foliage after new growth hardens off is important to compact the form.
Mastering the development of pad formation and maintenance will change the form dramatically.
I could be wrong, but neither are apparent in the pictures posted at this time. Hemlock branches and foliage have a natural tendency to spring upright, creating a compact image requires constant application of the two steps mentioned above.

Of course if it is your intention to form a style with upright form in branches and foliage than my suggestions will not help! if you are after a more compact form and reduction in foliage size than they will! The wiring will be lengthy to overcome the natural tendency and springy branch structure.
If you wish to review or study the process an excellent resource is David DeGroot's latest book Principles of Bonsai Design. Particularly chapter seven on branch structure and pad formation. Published 2015. I believe it is still available though the American Bonsai Society.
 
Of course if it is your intention to form a style with upright form in branches and foliage than my suggestions will not help! if you are after a more compact form and reduction in foliage size than they will! The wiring will be lengthy to overcome the natural tendency and springy branch structure.
If you wish to review or study the process an excellent resource is David DeGroot's latest book Principles of Bonsai Design. Particularly chapter seven on branch structure and pad formation. Published 2015. I believe it is still available though the American Bonsai Society.
Thanks for your suggestions. I think some of the problem is canadensis' growth habit. Western foliage is a swirl of needles and canadensis is flat. Canadensis continues to grow as long as it is pinched even into late fall, so "hardened off" is only a winter view. I have never worked with Mertensiana. Have you tried canadensis?
The pads of my larger tree I find more pleasing than the smaller one, in that the branch structure is visually exposed below the foliage. I'm not sure the smaller tree has enough physical room for both without appearing to be fuzzy. This is a photo from march 25 after winter pruning and before bud-break. It's been wired out with 20 gauge a number of years and it just doesn't seem to get any better. Needle reduction is about a small as it gets. I like your trees and their form. How big are they?
 
I have nine western hemlock that could all be shohin. Here they are lined up in front of my other shohin:
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This year I’ll get some wire on them. They were started by Weyerhaeuser nurseries in 2015.
 
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