19Mateo83
Masterpiece
I have 40 or so and can’t give them away…. That’s why they suck
May have been mis labeled. I'll look into it. ThanksThat sure looks a lot like sugar maple. are the buds pointy in winter. Usually silver maple grows endlessly all season
So I've told to give up on native silver maple because the"1. leaves are to big" 2. "The leaf posts are too long". 3. "The wood is too soft." So tell me a new reason because with very little effort I got the leaves under 4" most of which are around 2 to 3 inches long some even smaller around an inch. I've haven't been able to kill one yet.. the roots form amazing root spreads in very little time because of the crazy vigorous nature of the Species. The petals are on this example are all about 2 inches or so as well.. and these are saplings, Imagine if this was a well Ramified older tree. Btw I found four saplings and tied them together to form a clump. I really think more people should give them a try. Yea I may be a little bit Biased because I grew up under a beautiful silver maple at the house I was raised in but still,,, they are so easy to work with give them a try.. if I'm missing a reason let me know so I can figure out how to proceed because I'm spending a fair bit of resources on them .. ohh yea... the leaves are just as pretty as any Japanese maple heheheheheheheh. At least they don't look like weed leaves like the Japanese maples I'm joking
I totally think you should keep on working with these things. Do what excites you! That said, I don't think these pictures are particularly convincing as to leaf reduction size. Honestly, they still look huge to me.
Loved this snippet.Same for cottonwood, which when coarse and unrestrained has leaves the size of a schoolbus.
People who are illiterate in deciduous broadleaf bonsai need to stop telling beginners which trees do or don't work. We should also stop listening to them.
If I understand the process of leaf reduction correctly (probably don't!), the idea is that a certain rootmass (simplified, there's other factors) will produce a given surface area of leaves. Thus the more you ramify the branches, the more spread out that surface area is across different buds/shoots, and the smaller the leaves get. Something like that?
I'm convinced that in maples and a lot of other deciduous broadleaf species, the reducability of foliage/internode size is almost purely function of the grower's body and brain, not the surface-level assessments of non-experts or even really genetics. Skills, experience, and technical understanding of how to ramify a root system and a canopy are more important. It becomes really obvious when you play with cuttings of a very large-leafed tree and root them in tiny volumed containers (think: those 24-slot seedling trays from the garden center). Or when just walking through a forest of bigleaf maple (or cottonwood) and observing leaf size variation on single trees with your own eyes. Ramify, constrain, and features will reduce!
imho It’s not about a tree type, leaf size, or stating and restating opinions and theory.
Its all about the hobbyist, their research, timing, continual practice, effective tactics and being open minded enough to experience the flow of each tree’s development….
…. and then understanding the evolving trade offs it will take to develop a tree(s) to achieve their maximum bonsai potential.
In other words, it’s about balancing a series of competing “goods”… the trade offs that result in the tree before you and the tree in the future.
Here’s an example of a young 1- 5 yoa Autumn Blaze forest composition. (Cuttings struck over the years to add on).
View attachment 503410
Somewhat mediocre perhaps? But a good example all the same…
So what trade offs were made to get here…?
….and what trade offs must to be made in the future to get to a place to make this composition ancient, gnarly and perhaps even dynamic?
Here’s two examples of the competing goods faced while developing this forest:
- The good that comes from pushing growth resulting in trunk girth and increased root mass (and big leaves )
vs
- The aesthetic good of keeping the leaves a reasonable size, resulting from pinch back, constraining foliar mass and minimal container size. (and less girth, root mass etc )
And…
- The good that comes from getting an ‘acceptable’ job done in the shortest time.
vs
- The good that comes from having the patience to stretch the time continuum and build the skills needed to truly emulate an ancient, gnarly tree(s).
The competing goods subtly shift over time, requiring different trade offs and experiences.
So perhaps a better question would be “What trade offs am I willing to make to get this to be a nice bonsai with smaller leaves?”
cheers
DSD sends
I really enjoyed this perspective and the framing of trade offs.
A lot of these trade offs to me appear to stem from an anticipatory envisioning of what the later result will be. I have found that the "continual practice" that you mentioned at the start of your comment is what helps me defer the rush to the result while building confidence that I can get there (through testing/learning techniques).
I've found that shortcuts are often just haste wrapped up in disguise. I can take my sweet time with the more promising material while continuously generating cuttings and doing experiments with other material of the same species. Your comment doesn't mention this explicitly, but for me it has a strong "enjoy the journey" character to it when bringing up the idea of "experiencing the flow" of development. For cottonwood at least, I had to just see what happens for a while and had to be ready to accept whatever limitations came up. Things have become much clearer over time, but most importantly, I still have my first cottonwood and didn't drop out of the game, and the goal has gradually become more ambitious.
My takeaway is that I haven't hit a floor—I've just hit a point where progress is moving more slowly and I'm getting diminishing returns for my efforts. If I'm in my 20's, I should be able to take my time over the next fifty years to continue refining the tree, but progress will continue to slow down over time as the tree gets more and more refined. Is that accurate?
Dude that almost looks like a field maple... the leaves are really really cool. Almost like that a Specific cultivar your growing.. I just steal all my Material of plunder my or my parents yards...Special pictures just for you. I took out my ruler to compare the sizes of our leaves. I do think my silver maple might be a hybrid as it has some leaves that don't really have the look of silver maples unless it is a juvenile/mature foliage type of thing.
View attachment 503059
Picture here is one of my first flush leaves. The petiole measures 1/2 an inch long. This is without an ramification and heavily feeding. I am not claiming anything as it could just be a fluke or circumstantial, but it is one of several leaves that small. It gives me hope that I can make them that small through ramification in the future.
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This is the size of the leaves on average currently outside of the much bigger apical leaves. Three inches long from the start of the petiole to tip and two inches wide.