ok...i have debated for days about posting in this thread...here are some of my thoughts about apexes. Hopefully this will just add to the discussion.
In the last 20+ years I have certainly tried, and have examples in my garden of all the methods for developing apexes mentioned here...I think they all have their pros and cons...and some maybe necessary if you are working with lesser material, but ultimately they all fall short of how trees grow naturally in my view.
Qualifications... The following is based on my desire to create trees that reference naturally mature and aged trees. I am not trying to grow triangles or trying to use tromp l'oiel methods to disguise the structure....I am not saying those methods are wrong...I'm just interested in creating a more natural branch structure for my trees.
What I have noticed...
1. Very very few trees in nature (other than the proverbial spruce style...christmas tree) have a single trunk line that travels from the base to the top of the tree. This is particularly true for deciduous species but also true for most conifers. For me this eliminates the bend over the single branch apex option...regardless of how it is twisted or shaped, it will never replicate the natural form.
2. Very few natural trees have downward sloping primary and secondary apex branches... tertiary branches may be angled horizontal or slightly downward.
3. As a general rule...Apexes on mature trees are never pointed...instead they are domed....of course there are exceptions to this.
Application...
For me this means that I am going to use multiple ascending branches to form an apex. Generally, I use 3 branches, that ascend vertically at some angle, to form a 3d domed shaped apex. For younger material this means that you need to move down the trunk from the single branch at the top to a point where several branches are located (I believe both Smoke and Rob alluded to this). I think it is also important that these 3 branches do not all emanate from the same location on the trunk. For deciduous trees, an apex done this way may be as much as a third of the foliage silhouette. For conifers it is typically a smaller percentage of the total...1/6th or even less.
In time, I selectively prune and train the secondary and tertiary branches of the apex to conform to an over all dome shape. Larger branches are eventually eliminated as they grow out of scale and replaced by the remaining smaller branches.
I know pics would help but I think if you step outside and closely examine a few mature trees you will see that in most cases the apex you see have little resemblance to most apexes we design for our bonsai.
I think the one exception to all this are the yamadori style junipers (specifically referring to the ones created by man...not actual yamadori junipers), as has been pointed out, all the rules are forgotten here in favor of a tromp l'eoil approach....and there is no winter view to reveal the "cheating".
Here is a video in which Arthur Joura and I discussed this topic.
[video=youtube_share;uM0ynQh1yrc]http://youtu.be/uM0ynQh1yrc[/video]
In the last 20+ years I have certainly tried, and have examples in my garden of all the methods for developing apexes mentioned here...I think they all have their pros and cons...and some maybe necessary if you are working with lesser material, but ultimately they all fall short of how trees grow naturally in my view.
Qualifications... The following is based on my desire to create trees that reference naturally mature and aged trees. I am not trying to grow triangles or trying to use tromp l'oiel methods to disguise the structure....I am not saying those methods are wrong...I'm just interested in creating a more natural branch structure for my trees.
What I have noticed...
1. Very very few trees in nature (other than the proverbial spruce style...christmas tree) have a single trunk line that travels from the base to the top of the tree. This is particularly true for deciduous species but also true for most conifers. For me this eliminates the bend over the single branch apex option...regardless of how it is twisted or shaped, it will never replicate the natural form.
2. Very few natural trees have downward sloping primary and secondary apex branches... tertiary branches may be angled horizontal or slightly downward.
3. As a general rule...Apexes on mature trees are never pointed...instead they are domed....of course there are exceptions to this.
Application...
For me this means that I am going to use multiple ascending branches to form an apex. Generally, I use 3 branches, that ascend vertically at some angle, to form a 3d domed shaped apex. For younger material this means that you need to move down the trunk from the single branch at the top to a point where several branches are located (I believe both Smoke and Rob alluded to this). I think it is also important that these 3 branches do not all emanate from the same location on the trunk. For deciduous trees, an apex done this way may be as much as a third of the foliage silhouette. For conifers it is typically a smaller percentage of the total...1/6th or even less.
In time, I selectively prune and train the secondary and tertiary branches of the apex to conform to an over all dome shape. Larger branches are eventually eliminated as they grow out of scale and replaced by the remaining smaller branches.
I know pics would help but I think if you step outside and closely examine a few mature trees you will see that in most cases the apex you see have little resemblance to most apexes we design for our bonsai.
I think the one exception to all this are the yamadori style junipers (specifically referring to the ones created by man...not actual yamadori junipers), as has been pointed out, all the rules are forgotten here in favor of a tromp l'eoil approach....and there is no winter view to reveal the "cheating".
Here is a video in which Arthur Joura and I discussed this topic.
[video=youtube_share;uM0ynQh1yrc]http://youtu.be/uM0ynQh1yrc[/video]