scots pine literati first styling

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This is one of the trees i "saved" from someone stopping with "bonsai" spring 2015. Some older photo's from
2010
20101.JPG
2011
20114.JPG
spring 2015: small buds, badly compacted soil, so i repotted and had to wash the rootball (i know, you can't do this with pines...)
2015 jan.JPG
The pine grew ok this year, some backbudding is starting, i wired it and used all branches to let the tree gain some more vigor. Went a workshop and master told me to cut all the branches i would not keep in the long run. Healthy enough he said.
2015-12-23 14.11.50.jpg
 
You snapped from 2010 to 2011....

Such a smaller pot and the tree looks more compact too! Killed. Feat.

Nice direction now too!

Sorce
 
You sure cut a lot of the green, well if its healthy i guess its no problem.
Interesting to see how it will look like in another 5 years, i can see a nice bunjin in there
 
Nice looking Scots pine. The tree looks much healthier in just one year from 2010 to
2011, Should look real nice when it fills out.
You are much braver than me for cutting all that growth off.
 
the photo's from 2010 and 2011 are from the previous owner. The branches are compacted and smaller needles have grown that year after repotting. The buds are big so i'm not concerned for its health after whacking things off. We will see next year how backbudding occurs. I pulled 3 years of needles off so enough place to see the sun... Normally in 5 years the tree should have filled in a bit, so i can cut more branches...
 
Thanks, i guess the tree will tell. Missing some branches and have a few to much.
 
few more years after it's filled out will look great
 
Hope I do that there is enough foliage to survive. Good potential for future.;)
 
There is one thing I have learned about Scots Pines is that you can get them to reduce their needle size down a lot almost too much that they start to weaken. This particular tree of yours seems to have been treated according to the JBP play book. In my experience it is usually better to leave more of the original needles.

ScotLit2.jpg

This tree on the other hand seems to be doing very well and I prefer the way the growth has been treated. Of course what do I know, as long as you are following instructions from someone who actually grows Scots, this is the beginnings of a first rate Scots bonsai.

ScotLit.jpg
 
I like where you're taking it. I don't think I would have had the guts to cut off so much.
 
Vance, thanks for thinking this trough and commenting. The two trees you show are the same tree, i guess you see it and it is my misinterpretation of what you say. It is correct jbp and sylvestris are different in tactic for backbudding (that is what we want now). JBP seems to respond better when you let them grow strong with enough needle mass from the beginning, after that backbudding will occur automatically and here is the big difference the backbudding will develop ... Sylvestris has to be strong to backbud and will do this on its own but you have to induce a trigger so the tree goes in "survival mode" so backbudding will happen. Normally backbuds will be visible next year in late summer. We will cut back the stronger growth then so the branches keep equal strength. Once all branches start at the same power, we will be able to reduce all of them at the same time, giving it more effect. When playing the JBP trick it would mean we left more needles and a sylvestris would in my experience react with giving the terminal bud an extra boost, and backbudding between last years needles. We want backbudding further back. I hope it makes sense. Also this is a literati (to be) so we do not need backbudding on the old branches we would cut it away anyway. If we wanted that i guess we would have gone to a bigger pot for an extra year to exponentially increase the power before triggering it. This would most likely induce the losing of old bark that is starting to build up. It is always a sort of balancing between adding power and triggering it to respond. Since it is only the second growing season i have this tree it is a bit guessing what the tree will do, some respond better than others. Heavy feeding and watering this year... Needles this year were 2 times the size of the needles with the previous owner, and i would like them to be a bit bigger with more extension. Fingers crossed... Hope to update with positive result next year.
 
So the next year came (2017), but it came with yellowish growth (already apparent in the photo above). It often means overwatering (in summer, in fall, or in winter, or in spring) the seasons before. From what i have seen a little yellowness due to overwatering does go away fast and new growth is less affected. This one was so yellow / white i was thinking about root aphids i've read about on the blog of Jonas (Bonsai tonight), so i gave it a soil drench (imidacloprid). Taking into account the high amount of work on the tree and knowing the tree was weakened before it got under my care i should have slowed down my working speed. Without pruning this year and easing off the watering and the soil drench the tree has returned to almost green. Being lazy works with bonsai. Hoping for the best in 2018.
 
best of luck, i love where this tree is heading. actually... i love where it is already
 
Yep the tree will tell. I hope she keeps options open. I think it's a she so i need to give her time and respect and some gentle hints here and there.
 
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