M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
I hate to break it to you.
D.E.isnt organic.
It doesn't break down either.
Maybe you got a bad batch.
Like that bad batch of akadama you think Vance may have gotten.
Repotting and half bare rooting pines
- Thread starter maroun.c
- Start date
D.E.isnt organic.
It doesn't break down either.
Maybe you got a bad batch.
Like that bad batch of akadama you think Vance may have gotten.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I love how a Gentleman understands and responds. Thanks for the question mark!
Actually, "they say" roots grow into it and divide, etc.
They say it's the break down over time that makes for more water retention as you need it with more root growth which is good.
Then they tell US it doesn't break down when it suits the argument.
Contra Dick Tory.
I don't think it's the days under freezing as much as it is the days hovering around freezing, this is what changes the particles the most.
I'll plant my trees in Japanese Philosophy like Walter, cheap available modern substrate. Doing otherwise is just bad business, hell with a tree hobby.
It is not an old Japanese Master with great trees that is exporting this stuff to better our trees. He would think we are stupid for shipping soil worldwide.
It's white people selling shit to white people.
Go figure.
Sorce
Actually, "they say" roots grow into it and divide, etc.
They say it's the break down over time that makes for more water retention as you need it with more root growth which is good.
Then they tell US it doesn't break down when it suits the argument.
Contra Dick Tory.
I don't think it's the days under freezing as much as it is the days hovering around freezing, this is what changes the particles the most.
I'll plant my trees in Japanese Philosophy like Walter, cheap available modern substrate. Doing otherwise is just bad business, hell with a tree hobby.
It is not an old Japanese Master with great trees that is exporting this stuff to better our trees. He would think we are stupid for shipping soil worldwide.
It's white people selling shit to white people.
Go figure.
Sorce
No, I have no idea what Walter uses as his soil.
It’s his styling that I’m not all that fond of. He does have many very nice trees. My taste in bonsai tends to favor the Classical Japanese styling.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Which can only be grown in Akadama.
Sorce
Sorce
Akadama is a mined product, and the quality can vary. Some akadama is harder than others. One of the largest mines of hard akadama was destroyed by the tsunami about 5 or 6 years ago, and the only akadama that was available for a couple of years was of poorer quality. That problem has been resolved.
I am not saying that you or anyone HAS to use akadama. It is an excellent soil component if you know how to use it. It does have qualities that make it unique, there’s nothing else I know of that performs the way it does.
Like any tool, it can be helpful if used properly. Like any tool it can be harmful or even dangerous if used improperly.
If anyone wants to brag about not using akadama, fine, go ahead. Just don’t say it doesn’t work because it does!
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Sorce, I have pretty nice bonsai. People want to know how I do it. In fact, many people will say they have had bad luck with JWP (for example), and they ask me how it is that I grow them so well. And I tell them that I, too, used to have bad luck with them until I changed to Boon Mix, and ever since then, they have thrived. Prior to that, I had bought several from Brussel’s. And they all slowly declined until they died. Now, if I get a tree that’s in Brussel’s soil, I repot it (HBR) into Boon Mix. No more decline. They thrive in Boon Mix.
Based upon this experience, what am I supposed to say?
You see the quality of the trees I post on this site. All (except the occasional azalea) are in Boon Mix. If you have better trees and they’re not in APL (Boon Mix equivalent), let’s see ‘em.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Sorry, some of that is my upset about that old shit.
It can't be only the soil!
I understand this is your truth, that's what makes it so difficult for anyone to grasp.
It goes back this, "we are all right in our own gardens", from soil to potting time to watering..etc.
The entire system is what makes for end success.
I would like us to start thinking about it in this manner, we will understand more and argue less.
So, I would like you to say it in a manner that won't praise it so singularly, it's merely part of a greater system.
Sorce
It can't be only the soil!
I understand this is your truth, that's what makes it so difficult for anyone to grasp.
It goes back this, "we are all right in our own gardens", from soil to potting time to watering..etc.
The entire system is what makes for end success.
I would like us to start thinking about it in this manner, we will understand more and argue less.
So, I would like you to say it in a manner that won't praise it so singularly, it's merely part of a greater system.
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
For instance...
And this is not total.
I wouldn't be able to use this method we were arguing about before, where I wet rot the low end of a nursery can away, if it weren't for other things.
My daily excessive flooding, during peak hot festering hours, is what keeps the actual root rot fungus away.
And.
I always make sure I have centipedes in my soil, I am sure this keeps other root problems at bay.
These are 2 very minor parts of an entire system, but they mean so much.
I can figure about a thousand tiny differences in any system that make everything different.
All make for "it depends".
Which for me is the key.
Figure out why "it depends" is so, so we can learn and make a correct approach.
"It depends" falls us short of success.
When we know what it depends on, which we can, we succeed.
Sorce
And this is not total.
I wouldn't be able to use this method we were arguing about before, where I wet rot the low end of a nursery can away, if it weren't for other things.
My daily excessive flooding, during peak hot festering hours, is what keeps the actual root rot fungus away.
And.
I always make sure I have centipedes in my soil, I am sure this keeps other root problems at bay.
These are 2 very minor parts of an entire system, but they mean so much.
I can figure about a thousand tiny differences in any system that make everything different.
All make for "it depends".
Which for me is the key.
Figure out why "it depends" is so, so we can learn and make a correct approach.
"It depends" falls us short of success.
When we know what it depends on, which we can, we succeed.
Sorce
The thing is, I believe good soil IS KEY to success! Strong roots make a strong tree. A strong root system allows a tree to recover from the stressful things (pruning and wiring) we do to it.
Without strong roots, the tree can’t take in the nutrients to grow.
All a tree can do to make itself stronger is grow. It can’t lift weights, it can’t study at college, read books... no, it’s only tool is it’s ability to grow. To be able to grow, it has to be in good soil to support root growth. No root growth, no top growth. No top growth, no sugars from photosynthesis. It all starts with the roots. And for good roots, you need good soil that promotes root growth.
And when the tree is mature, you want a soil that inhibits excess root growth to inhibit excess top growth.
Knowing the importance of soil, the relationship of soil and root growth/health is an epiphany.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
No mention of water.
That's my point, all that can be true but without appropriate water it's useless.
A very obvious part of the whole system.
Sorce
That's my point, all that can be true but without appropriate water it's useless.
A very obvious part of the whole system.
Sorce
Anthony
Imperial Masterpiece
A soil mix that slows the loss of the Design, every, say 10 years.
Or you could do as Dan Barton does [memory here ] sell the tree
and start again.
For us we just lower the % compost and shift to 6 - 8 N -
see the NPK of Fermented Oil seed meal.
The brick can hold both water and fertiliser in solution.
I would never use an inorganic component that decays.
Clay encourages fat non feeder roots.
On to 3 mm tests, and 1 inch deep pots [ 2.5 cm ]
Good Day
Anthony
Or you could do as Dan Barton does [memory here ] sell the tree
and start again.
For us we just lower the % compost and shift to 6 - 8 N -
see the NPK of Fermented Oil seed meal.
The brick can hold both water and fertiliser in solution.
I would never use an inorganic component that decays.
Clay encourages fat non feeder roots.
On to 3 mm tests, and 1 inch deep pots [ 2.5 cm ]
Good Day
Anthony
You're kinda changing the subject, but ok...
The good thing about APL is you can’t really over water. Since it drains so well, you don’t get standing water, which makes for the anaerobic soil conditions that promotes root rot.
Now, in hot climates, you may find it dries out too quickly, and you need to water more often. This problem can be mitigated by using a timer on a watering system, or in less extreme cases by simply putting a layer of long fiber spaghnum moss on top of the soil to hold more water.
bwaynef
Masterpiece
Then what's the point of this forum? If what you're saying is true, your advice will be meaningless outside your own backyard. Quite possibly, detrimental even.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Exactly.
That's what keeps piling "it depends" atop "it depends".
It's not just my advice. It's everyone's advice.
This IS the subject.
As trivial as it is, watering Information is crucial to appropriately apply the soil info.
If one waters once a week with nursery soil, and does not change their watering, good or better soil is useless.
We assume, this leads to more "it depends" and detrimental information.
Wow. You nailed it @bwaynef .
The whole thing is clear as day now.
That's why we are more drawn to arguments and politics.
Wether anyone thinks about it as hatefully as I do, the contradictions are realized by everyone so yes, most of this information is useless.
Unless you begin to apply the info understanding these things I'm outlining.
This is why I am here to better an artist.
It is futile to attempt to change a tree.
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
There is a percentage of difference to the "stagnant wet" that this has.
I have moved on from an argument and am after these answers.
A Flow chart of sorts.
Both of those are true.
So how does this then effect the fertilization?
(Rhetorically)
How does that effect growth, which effects repotting time, which effects pruning time, which effects how long a tree will grow into the end of a season, which effects the next year. Etc.
We waste time arguing about wether the first two thing are true, when we should just move on.
That is why this is a waste of time, which, it doesn't need to be.
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I just realized, the times that I have seen roots grow out the baskets outside of the waning moon is when the trees have completed their top growth for the year, as my elms right now.
Seems this would be prime time for me to repot, as the leaves are well developed and less likely to transpire, and roots grow during both moons.
Of course, some people's truth(even in my climate) is, their elms are still growing.
But when were they last cut?
Odd cuz both my Virginia and Michigan Elms are still growing a bit.
Sorce
Seems this would be prime time for me to repot, as the leaves are well developed and less likely to transpire, and roots grow during both moons.
Of course, some people's truth(even in my climate) is, their elms are still growing.
But when were they last cut?
Odd cuz both my Virginia and Michigan Elms are still growing a bit.
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
I never said DE was organic MR. Frary. I said it turned to mush in a year. Tried many bags over several years. Actually our club got a deal on a pallet same experience for all participants. Purchased from different dealers over time. Some continue to use it and put up with it because it is cheap, not because it works real well! Others try to work with Sea Soil , works reasonably well but breaks down quickly and also takes a lot of sifting to get a small amount of useable particles. But it is cheap to buy as well! The bottom line the components i choose are either pre sifted or have very few fines. Last way longer and cost less over time. Not too mention the labour savings in sifting and repotting. Or trying to find appropriate uses for all the left over particles.
