Mikecheck123
Omono
I like the apex going to the right. It feels more unstable, but they say that art is supposed to make you uncomfortable.
Please don’t take this as a slight because it is not intended to be, but... I love the outline of this and I know the spine of this tree is all there, but under the hood the branch structure seems like it will be quite juvenile or thin. I appreciate this is only in it’s infancy with regards to branch development, but is it not a bit early for hedging this one? Should thicker branches not be encouraged before trying to gain lots of ramification?
I ask mainly because I am planning my process with a couple of field maples and I am trying to get an idea of the best form of attack. I guess this will look more like a bonsai sooner (ie now), but it will take longer to become an actual bonsai.
I guess, are you intentionally sacrificing long term benefits for short term aesthetic?
I absolutely love the elegant serrations on zelkovas. They are not jagged saw teeth---rather, each one is a perfect dollop of whipped cream.hi mate, its cool. i wouldnt really call it hedging whats been done on this one.
ive been balancing the vigour throughout from the start with low n middle branches allowed to extend further than the crown, im constantly trimming shoots in the crown, what happens is the top gets more n more ramified while the low n mid branches become stronger and thicken, here are some close up shots of whats happening inside
this is the first branch on left ive allowed two from one point here just because it works...but see how thick theyre getting
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the first branch on the right as seen from the start was already substantial right,
so here is a secondary shoot at the base of it,
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middle
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as you go up the tree you want thinner branches right
at the end of the season ill do a before n after of last seasons naked image compared to this seasons
Yes, that makes perfect sense. I was just trying to get an idea of what the plan is. If the elm was done in the same way then that’s all the advocate you need. It looks great. How long has it been in development?the elm has been developed the same way are you familiar with it?
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i would add also, i dont believe that trees need to look crappy all the time during development. i prefer to enjoy my trees while they develop. on species like this you can get away with a lot of crown thinning while allowing other areas to develop. if i were just to let it go as you suggest i would end up with a lot of course shoots throughout the tree but especially in the crown.
i trim the shoots in the crown while theyre are still red most of the time and within days they shoot back.
i dont do this on all my trees but in regards to zelkova i did read an article by Marcus watts some time back and he recommended treating zelkova this way.
i read a book by Colin lewis some time ago, regarding elms he also had a method where he would constantly trim the crowns of english elms back to one or two nodes continuously while allowing other areas to extend and G potter also advocates this type of pruning in his video pruning deciduous bonsai.
hope you understand
literally forgot about the hollow at the back until you mentioned it, ive no ideaWhat I really like with your Zelkova is that it looks strong, healthy, full of life.
It brings me joy, an optimistic vision of the future. It's a very soothing image in these times of uncertainty and anxiety.
How long do you think it will take for the big scar to disappear on your elm ?
Yes, that makes perfect sense. I was just trying to get an idea of what the plan is. If the elm was done in the same way then that’s all the advocate you need. It looks great. How long has it been in development?
Its nice that it is a viable technique without having to go crazy in terms of, like you say, getting coarse growth and long nodes. You just see lots of information about growing sacrifice branches to gain faster girth etc, but I always figured the distance between nodes could create problems when trying to coax suitable buds down the line. Thanks.
forgot about the hollow at the back
Hi, most have dropped leaves around here, but there is a birch and sycamore in similar stages to the ZelkovaNice tree, my fall colour was poor on the elms and zelkova's. mine have been leafless for around two weeks now and I'm only 35-40miles further up north from you.
Thats a nice buttery yellow, i think there is still time for the colours to improve on mine before they drop.Same here for the potted ones. Elm + Zelkova. The Zelkova should have red/orange leaves :
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But the big one I have in the ground had red leaves as usual. You can see some in the top right-hand corner of this photo (Oct. 19th)
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the only trees that still have to loose there leaves in my garden is my Ume seedlings and acer sempervirens sapling
Hi alaink my ume are just matchstick thin seedlings pictures I just took are not the best. I am using my phone at night. Acer sempervirens is not quite evergreen they go butter yellow and loose there leaves in my garden in late January. Even in crete and such places they do loose there leaves completely a few weeks before they push their new growth.I can understand for Acer sempervirens, litterally "always green" in latin, they will keep their leaves in winter in their native habitat, but I'm surprised by the Ume : I don't have one as a bonsai, but two that are potted, about 60/80 cm tall but still rather thin, waiting to get bigger, and one from the same batch that I planted in the ground and is now over 2 metres tall. They all lost their leaves about 3 weeks ago, and our climates are very similar. Even milder here in the past week I think (no snow, only 2 days of very light frost, 0°, -1° C).
This afternoon, I removed the old tomato plants and stakes and I noticed that on the one in the ground, there are many buds that are even turning green, as if they thought Spring was coming.
It's night time here now (19:45 French time, 18:45 across the Channel) but if it doesn't rain too much tomorrow, I'll post a picture...