Pottery beginnings

Really nice work. I am glad you are in the UK else I would be concerned.
You just need to burnish your pots to push the grog into the surface. Even a very coarse and heavily grogged clay body can have a very smooth surface.
Wood first.. (when more moist) then Leatheeeeeer! (when in "par-moist/through bone dry.

(Is what I use)
 
Really nice work. I am glad you are in the UK else I would be concerned.
You just need to burnish your pots to push the grog into the surface. Even a very coarse and heavily grogged clay body can have a very smooth surface.
(did you notice this, as I did, when "zooming in" on that oval's feet?

😂😂😂
 
Really nice work. I am glad you are in the UK else I would be concerned
Thanks penumbra, that means a lot.

I'd never attempted to burnish anything before, but with yours and horselovers comments above, I've just spent an hour giving it a go. The pots almost too dry so wood wasn't doing much. Moved on to a hard plastic rib, a smooth stone and then buffed it with a chamois. (I couldn't find any leather in the house)

Turned out pretty good I think.
I gave it a final brush with a wet chamois cloth. I've seen people use oil instead of water for this. Any thoughts?

Not sure what to do with the feet. Think I'll leave them rough. Mostly because I'm too scared to touch them.😅
 

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Thanks penumbra, that means a lot.

I'd never attempted to burnish anything before, but with yours and horselovers comments above, I've just spent an hour giving it a go. The pots almost too dry so wood wasn't doing much. Moved on to a hard plastic rib, a smooth stone and then buffed it with a chamois. (I couldn't find any leather in the house)

Turned out pretty good I think.
I gave it a final brush with a wet chamois cloth. I've seen people use oil instead of water for this. Any thoughts?

Not sure what to do with the feet. Think I'll leave them rough. Mostly because I'm too scared to touch them.😅
That looks MUCH 'sexier'.

I need new leather scraps...

There's a mink farm near here (one of the worst olfactory sensations I've experienced)... also Alpaca and Ostrich.. My Buddy is going Bear hunting this year. 😂

And then TONS of the OBVIOUS farms.. but I'm not a real "obvious" kind of guy
 
hard plastic rib
While I, normally, HATE how plastic feels in my hand, and conversely how it feels RELATING to my piece.

@mwar15 's insight shared in @Colorado 's thread has "gotten my internal wheels spinning" on plastic edging/scraping/pulling tools, and constructing them for my personal needs.. after playing around.. just ANY plastic does NOT work.. and here is something I found and altered to be a LARGE "flat"... which is pretty exciting to me... I'll try edge and lip tools next.A6970304-7B94-44E8-9CAD-01512A0154BC.jpeg1A5B6F5A-6BA3-4F96-92EF-59E752F5C798.jpeg
 
I like to burnish a leather hard piece with a plastic bag if the grog is moderate.
A smooth polished stone is the best burnishing tool for somewhat drier clay or clay that contains a lot of grog. It takes a lot longer because it does not flex to the shape of the pottery, but it will give a finish as smooth as glass with enough elbow grease.
 
Biggest pot I've made so far. (10x8 inch)
Left it to dry a bit over night in a plastic bag before attaching the feet and a hairline crack appeared on one if the corners! 😬

Smoothed it over. Here's hoping it survives the bisque... (any tips on how to handle cracking while drying? First time its happened to me. I dry as slow as i possibly can most of the time)

This one's destined for a nice grey or orange/brown glaze.
 

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Biggest pot I've made so far. (10x8 inch)
Left it to dry a bit over night in a plastic bag before attaching the feet and a hairline crack appeared on one if the corners! 😬

Smoothed it over. Here's hoping it survives the bisque... (any tips on how to handle cracking while drying? First time its happened to me. I dry as slow as i possibly can most of the time)

This one's destined for a nice grey or orange/brown glaze.
There can be a few reasons for cracking like that..

Most ALL end up basically being, "Due to unEVEN drying" NOT necessarily too-fast... too-slow ect..

Or Stress..Gravity and it's leverage-stress.

So knowing this.

How much water (or slip) are using to seal these joints?. Is/was this particular piece... 'wetter' at the joints than other pieces you've made that DIDN'T crack?

The solution here is watching your moisture ADDED.

If you feel you've added too much water to an stress point.. consider things expanding and shrinking as they dry... and apply some moisture to the INVERSE of that stress point.

Consider gravity.. and the weight on your pieces DURING drying..

If you put adverse tension pressure.. post-leather, pre-touch-dry... (Picking up at a stupid angle to move it... considering it "hard enough") this can cause a single 'warp' that runs THROUGHOUT (Well it SHOULD 😂) and alters MANY angles.. which can cause cracks at those angles stress points.
 
But obviously.. ALWAYS slow as HELL.. slow's'ya'cun'go!


Also That piece is sexy! keep it up!
 
But obviously.. ALWAYS slow as HELL.. slow's'ya'cun'go!


Also That piece is sexy! keep it up!
Thank you!

In terms of differences this time, I'd say the clay was a little drier than usual when I assembled the pot. This was on purpose as I tend to jump the gun.

I use slip to join (don't shoot me sorce). Maybe a little on the thick side this time round.

Other than that it's a less groggy clay than some others I've been using and it
Does tend to shrink a lot more during drying.
 
If you put adverse tension pressure.. post-leather, pre-touch-dry... (Picking up at a stupid angle to move it... considering it "hard enough")
This is also a possibility. I had to flip it by hand at one point of the build and it did flex a little!
 
REPRESENT!

Here's a tip...

STRAIN the slip that you intend to use for joining.. and go lighter.

🤪
Ooooh. Thanks.
Is there a theory behind this?

I tend to keep a pot of slip per clay I use. I just let shavings and off cuts dry, smash them to bits with a rolling pin and then mix with water to desired consistency
 
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