penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
Yeah, masonry bits are brutal.
Didn't realize they made them as small as 3/16 for non lapidary use. Things have changed a lot over the years. When I made jewelry a 3/16 was available but cost $30+.
Oddly specific question about wiring tree into pot
- Thread starter One First Matter All
- Start date
Didn't realize they made them as small as 3/16 for non lapidary use. Things have changed a lot over the years. When I made jewelry a 3/16 was available but cost $30+.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Yeah the diamond hole saw bits are key. Milwaukee makes them in very small sizes.
I've successfully drilled several pots with the 1/4 inch one.
I've successfully drilled several pots with the 1/4 inch one.
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
Wow, having two threads about almost exactly the same things is confusing for an old man.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Over here I’ve successfully drilled at least 30 pots with diamond hole saws, for drainage and for wiring. Having drain holes out in the Incersion area of Puget sound is a real plus.
I started out using the putty dam after reading @River's Edge post on this method. However over time I went two other ways to lubricate the bit. This method is straightforward and used for pots with trees inside. I only use it in the case I don’t want to pull the tree out. I have another person with a spray bottle constantly spray the drill sit while I drill.
The second method is my own. One takes a tub of water, then places chocks of wood directly inside the pot where drilling through for internal support. Then flip the pot over and position it underwater so it’s submerged 1/4-1/2”. Tilt the bit to score the pot when first drilling. Then shift the bit to 90” degrees on the pot surface.
Only cautions is that one should use a battery powered drill and easy pressure in the final stages of drilling so as not to blow out the interior part of the pot.
Ok, this is a hot button issue so I’m gonna go up on the proverbial soapbox, so please skip this part if you so desire. It’s also a bit of a birdwalk, so I apologize in advance to @One First Matter All
While I would drill any pot with poor drainage with confidence, even expensive ones, I’m absolutely not a pot aficionado (in either meaning of the phase). I feel buying an expensive, or ancient, pot that looks good with poor drainage is just a waste of money. Others my differ or even try to compensate with a large drain layer... not a long term solution imho.
As an alternate means to avoid drilling to assure drainage, my purchases are restricted to pots with large drain holes and decent side wire/drain holes.…. with no pooling on the bottom of the pot caused by poor design/firing. (I learned this the hard way in just three years - slow learner
). This often means buying newer pots. In fact this design criteria has been suggested to a number of potters in the last year.
I’ve done a couple commissions lately. Each has drainage criteria specified. Luckily a good number of potters like Vicki Chamberlien, Matt Borst and @sorce are well on top of these design feature.
Ok, I‘m done. thanks for your forbearance!
cheers
DSD sends
I started out using the putty dam after reading @River's Edge post on this method. However over time I went two other ways to lubricate the bit. This method is straightforward and used for pots with trees inside. I only use it in the case I don’t want to pull the tree out. I have another person with a spray bottle constantly spray the drill sit while I drill.
The second method is my own. One takes a tub of water, then places chocks of wood directly inside the pot where drilling through for internal support. Then flip the pot over and position it underwater so it’s submerged 1/4-1/2”. Tilt the bit to score the pot when first drilling. Then shift the bit to 90” degrees on the pot surface.
Only cautions is that one should use a battery powered drill and easy pressure in the final stages of drilling so as not to blow out the interior part of the pot.
Ok, this is a hot button issue so I’m gonna go up on the proverbial soapbox, so please skip this part if you so desire. It’s also a bit of a birdwalk, so I apologize in advance to @One First Matter All
While I would drill any pot with poor drainage with confidence, even expensive ones, I’m absolutely not a pot aficionado (in either meaning of the phase). I feel buying an expensive, or ancient, pot that looks good with poor drainage is just a waste of money. Others my differ or even try to compensate with a large drain layer... not a long term solution imho.
As an alternate means to avoid drilling to assure drainage, my purchases are restricted to pots with large drain holes and decent side wire/drain holes.…. with no pooling on the bottom of the pot caused by poor design/firing. (I learned this the hard way in just three years - slow learner
). This often means buying newer pots. In fact this design criteria has been suggested to a number of potters in the last year. I’ve done a couple commissions lately. Each has drainage criteria specified. Luckily a good number of potters like Vicki Chamberlien, Matt Borst and @sorce are well on top of these design feature.
Ok, I‘m done. thanks for your forbearance!
cheers
DSD sends
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
take a straight section of larger gauge copper wire lay above the screen protruding equal distance opposite sides. Wire this to the straight section you would normally use under the pot with a single hole tie. The longer straight section on top can be positioned to mount the tie wires needed to off centre the pot.
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