New to Bonsai and looking for general advice

[Beloc]

Hello everyone,

I am new to bonsai and recently purchased some trees from Eastern Leaf. They all came in looking well and, so far it has been going well, I think. I am about a month to month and a half into it, and it doesn't seem to be dying. It seems to be doing well.

Here are some things I have done and would like some thoughts on them:

1. At first, I kept the trees (one is a Juniper Evergreen, two Chinese Elms, and a Flowering Tea tree) about 1.5-2 feet from a window that gets direct sunlight from about 1pm to sunset. The amount of shade changes as the sun goes down.
2. Thinking more light is better, I purchased a full spectrum UV light that is on for 9 hours a day, shining on them. This is done during the day so many days they get not only the sunlight but the UV light. I know I can turn it off on sunny days, but I am lazy, and it's on a timer.
3. They are kept indoors. If it does not show on my profile, my zone is 7a. Should I or could I put them outside?
4. I try to keep their humidity trays "wet" every day since the humidity in my home hovers around 38-40%. I'm not sure if this is too low or just right. To me, it seems a tad low.
5. I also check the soil wetness with a meter and do not water if it is wet or better. The meter has the readings of dry, normal, wet, and wet+.

The one thing I notice is the top portions of the soil tend to get very dry, but when I use the meter and push it down into the pot, at about an inch, it turns to normal/wet and then wet as I go deeper. Is this normal? If the top is dry but the area where the roots are are wet is this ok?

Thank you guys for all the help and I look forward to learning.

 

[pandacular]

They are kept indoors. If it does not show on my profile, my zone is 7a. Should I or could I put them outside?

With the exception of the tea tree, yes, they should be outdoors. It is possible to keep temperate bonsai alive indoors, but in the long term, it is very challenging. The tea tree should also be placed outside when temperatures are consistently about 40-50°F.

 

[Paradox]

1. At first, I kept the trees (one is a Juniper Evergreen, two Chinese Elms, and a Flowering Tea tree) about 1.5-2 feet from a window that gets direct sunlight from about 1pm to sunset. The amount of shade changes as the sun goes down.
2. Thinking more light is better, I purchased a full spectrum UV light that is on for 9 hours a day, shining on them. This is done during the day so many days they get not only the sunlight but the UV light. I know I can turn it off on sunny days, but I am lazy, and it's on a timer.
3. They are kept indoors. If it does not show on my profile, my zone is 7a. Should I or could I put them outside?
4. I try to keep their humidity trays "wet" every day since the humidity in my home hovers around 38-40%. I'm not sure if this is too low or just right. To me, it seems a tad low.
5. I also check the soil wetness with a meter and do not water if it is wet or better. The meter has the readings of dry, normal, wet, and wet+.

Welcome to the forum and the craziness that is bonsai.
Please put your location on your profile. With 1000+ members of this forum, we cant remember where everyone is.
It will help us give you the best advice for your location without having to repeatedly ask.

The juniper should definitely be outside. The elms, it depends right now if they are in full leaf or not.
If they were kept in a greenhouse and still have green leaves and are growing new leaves, then they are not prepared for dormancy right now and putting them outside in freezing weather could kill them.

The juniper and elms do not need humidity trays. Humidity is bad for most everything but tropicals and even then you have to careful. I dont even use humidity trays for my tropicals and they do fine. Not sure about the tea tree as I am not familiar with them.

The light is a great idea and very good for the trees you need to keep inside during the winter. I have tropicals I keep under lights during the winter when they cant be outside.

Sorry to inform you but the wetness meter is a waste of money and tend not to work so well in bonsai soil.
The best wetness meter in the world is your finger or you can use a wooden chopstick which is probably best for seeing how wet the soil is deep down. Stick that down into the soil of the pot and leave it there. Take it out every day and look at/feel it. Water your trees when that is almost dry. Do not allow it to try out completely as that is typically too dry.

 

[Beloc]

Thank you for the replies.

Both elms are in full leave mode right now, so I will put them outside this spring, I assume?

I will stop watering the tray for the Juniper. I guess the tray is fine for the others?

The moisture meter being a waste is fine. It was only $25. I spent more than that on lunch today with my daughter.

The next purchase I am looking to make is a maple and maybe an Azalea. Any quick thoughts on those?

I will post some pictures soon.

 

[Paradox]

Thank you for the replies.

Both elms are in full leave mode right now, so I will put them outside this spring, I assume?

I will stop watering the tray for the Juniper. I guess the tray is fine for the others?

The moisture meter being a waste is fine. It was only $25. I spent more than that on lunch today with my daughter.

The next purchase I am looking to make is a maple and maybe an Azalea. Any quick thoughts on those?

I will post some pictures soon.

Yes put the elm outside in the spring once night temperatures are above 40 F.
I wouldnt use the tray for the elms either.

For maples, buy the best trunk you can afford. That is what takes the longest to develop
Generally we look for good trunks then nebari (roots). The branches on maples you can build later.

For the Azalea, make sure of what you are getting. There are some that are labeled "Satsuki" which are the Japanese azaleas most prized for bonsai when they are really Karume type azaleas, which can also be used for bonsai but they have much bigger leaves so arent as nice for bonsai

 

[RJG2]

Thank you for the replies.

Both elms are in full leave mode right now, so I will put them outside this spring, I assume?

I will stop watering the tray for the Juniper. I guess the tray is fine for the others?

The moisture meter being a waste is fine. It was only $25. I spent more than that on lunch today with my daughter.

The next purchase I am looking to make is a maple and maybe an Azalea. Any quick thoughts on those?

I will post some pictures soon.

What kind of soil are the plants in? "Rocky" coarse substrate or very organic "dirt" type substrate?

If the latter, the meter might be okayish - but I agree with @Paradox, finger is better to learn in the long run.

 

[pandacular]

If the latter, the meter might be okayish - but I agree with @Paradox, finger is better to learn in the long run.

Personally, I’ve found that lifting the plant to get a feel for the weight is the best way for me. Works very consistently across types of plants and soils, as long as you have a decent baseline for what the heft while dry and wet.

 

[rockm]

FWith the exception of tropical species--ficus, schefflera, tea tree (which more commonly goes as "Fukien Tea")--bonsai is not for inside.

Junipers, maples and elms will mostly die inside. Indoor conditions are extremely harsh, with exceptionally low humidity (lower than a desert, particularly in winter with the heat on), extremely low light (even near a window, sunlight is still shade and less than a quarter of outdoor sunlight). Supplemental lighting is a step up, but not really enough, unless you invest in high output, expensive systems. Off the shelf grow lights are inadequate for the most part. Air circulation is also extremely limited indoors and it's important in keeping trees healthy and avoid insect and fungal infestations. In short, even 'indoor' species only tolerate being kept inside. Temperate species such as juniper, maple and elm can't and won't handle those conditions for long.

Humidity trays do very little in keeping humidity levels up. They're sold as add-ons to pump up prices, or out of ignorance by the seller. They're unnecessary and can potentially be a problem if water levels in them reach the bottom of the pot, inhibiting drainage. I'd Get rid of them.

Watering meters made for indoor houseplants are not effective for bonsai, as they measure electrical activity between soil particles. Since bonsai soil is far more coarse (or should be far more coarse) than regular potted plant potting soil, the spaces between soil particles is larger , meaning that the water meter will read the activity wrong and most times will come up with a 'dry' reading. That will make you overwater if you rely on it. Learning how to water effectively is one of the biggest challenges in bonsai.

For now, I would keep all you plants inside (as they've probably been kept in a greenhouse by the vendor), as they have not generated winter protections they would have if kept outside all the time. Keep them in a bright, humid place inside until spring (probably late March in Zone 7), until the danger of frost and freezes has passed. Get them outside and leave them there beginning this spring.

 

[Zac]

Welcome I agree with the advice already given. I want to add that I've had experience with trees from Eastern leaf and have found that if you follow the care guide they send with the trees they will die I lost 5 trees from them. They're located in Southern California so don't know how to care for tree in your location. Most of their trees are priced good ( the smaller ones) but others are expensive for what you get. Their trees are more pre bonsai they cater to beginners and people buying a bonsai to display because thinks looks cool so will receive some odd trees. I have found that they have the trees in very organic soil some were even muddy and after shipping the soil was very compacted so best to aerate soil especially if seams to stay wet or if after watering the water just puddles on surface or runs right out and pot feels light. Advice I received from people on here about removing the trees from the bonsai pots they came in and planting them in larger training pots and better soil (at appropriate time of year for repot) allowed the second batch of trees I received from them to survive and flourish. If you leave in the pots they came in the trunks will stay spindly. Research the care instructions for your trees for your location and ask people in your climate how they care for their trees. I use the skewer in soil to judge watering and it's a big help can't just water on a schedule and each trees needs different. I use the humidity trays under my trees indoors but just to collect the water that runs out of pot when watering. I use a small humidifier and fan for my tropical trees. Air movement important so don't get pests and trees like air movement. Sorry so wordy

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

btw there is a really good beginners advice,

“How to be a successful beginner” thread started by @Bonsai Nut that is a really good read, interesting and could be a lasting reference.
Here’s the link

cheers
DSD

 

[WNC Bonsai]

As for buying more plants, wait until spring especially if the plants are not dormant. This will get you past the need to try and nurse them through the winter inside. Putting a tree that is not dormant outside at this late a day will likely kill it faster than keeping it inside. Also do some research on the trees you plan to purchase BEFORE buying them so you will know what growing conditions they require. I have bought stuff from Jason before, mainly fertilizer, but he will sell you whatever you want assuming you know what you are ordering and know how to care for it.