You said you put leca balls in the bottom of the bonsai pot, you can check if the roots grew at all by seeing if when you pick it up the balls fall out or the roots hang on like there was growth.
Looking for advice - Juniper Bonsai
- Thread starter JasonL
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JasonL
Sapling
What I meant was that a combination of bad soil and over watering (it rained for a couple of weeks straight) and temps fluctuated from warm to quite cold (+10C to -10C)...my area can have some pretty wild weather swings even in short periods of time. All that combined with the fact the tree spent three years inside with a constant temperature and moderated watering may have been a detriment to the trees survival.
I'm now working on getting better soils for my trees, understanding the attributes of each tree, and keeping them outside (except for my new Jades).
Currently have a Juniper, very young Pine, and a new sugar maple I just potted.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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Long time BNutters know I usually advocate growing junipers outside. But today I am feeling like a cantankerous old coot, and I will point out that it IS POSSIBLE, to raise junipers, particularly shimpaku and procumbens under lights.
For those that don't know; for over 40 years I grew a collection of over 1000 orchids under lights, orchids of many genera, from shade lovers to sun lovers, all under lights. I successfully included a number of trees, Pomegranate, Ficus, and and Bursera all under lights. You can compensate for lower light intensity compared to outdoor sun with increased day length. Many tree species will adapt to this. Even American Bosai Society published an article or two on under lights growing. Jack Wilke wrote a great article on his 30 years experience, using standard fluorescent lamp technology. With today's LED technology lighting is a trivial issue. Biggest issue with trees under lights is proper temperature control. Most, if not all trees need a 10 to 20 degree F or 5 to 10 degree C temperature change between day and night. Warmer in the day cycle and cooler at night. Exact temp differential may vary from species to species, but cooler temps especially in the last 4 hours of night are needed to slow metabolism to allow sugars to accumulate for growth. Plants "adaptable" as house plants, can accumulate sugars for growth without the chilling at night. Trees generally need at least a little bit of cooling every night compared to peak temps for the day.
@Bonsai Nut - if you could link a reprint of that old Jack Wilke article to this thread, that would be great. I looked for it in resources and could not find it. Or a link to where it might reside on the ABS website if it is a matter of avoiding copyright issues.
For those that don't know; for over 40 years I grew a collection of over 1000 orchids under lights, orchids of many genera, from shade lovers to sun lovers, all under lights. I successfully included a number of trees, Pomegranate, Ficus, and and Bursera all under lights. You can compensate for lower light intensity compared to outdoor sun with increased day length. Many tree species will adapt to this. Even American Bosai Society published an article or two on under lights growing. Jack Wilke wrote a great article on his 30 years experience, using standard fluorescent lamp technology. With today's LED technology lighting is a trivial issue. Biggest issue with trees under lights is proper temperature control. Most, if not all trees need a 10 to 20 degree F or 5 to 10 degree C temperature change between day and night. Warmer in the day cycle and cooler at night. Exact temp differential may vary from species to species, but cooler temps especially in the last 4 hours of night are needed to slow metabolism to allow sugars to accumulate for growth. Plants "adaptable" as house plants, can accumulate sugars for growth without the chilling at night. Trees generally need at least a little bit of cooling every night compared to peak temps for the day.
@Bonsai Nut - if you could link a reprint of that old Jack Wilke article to this thread, that would be great. I looked for it in resources and could not find it. Or a link to where it might reside on the ABS website if it is a matter of avoiding copyright issues.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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One of the objections to junipers indoors under lights is the perceived belief that they need a cold winter rest with near freezing temperatures. This is partially true, in that without a cold spell there will not be an spring flush of buds. Buds in spring will be more sporadic, and less vigorous, but they will come. Procumbens juniper does better under lights than other species. Shimpaku and the rest will be weak in their spring & summer growth response. North American junipers species are very likely to simply fail to thrive under lights regardless of day length and other treatments.
By the way, for under lights growing, to compensate for less than full sun intensity, most run their lights for 16 to 18 hours, as increased day length can compensate for lower intensity to a large degree. This is usually done for 9 months, then a 3 month dormancy or rest of 10 or 11 hours day length. Though for tropicals I kept 18 hours year round.
By the way, for under lights growing, to compensate for less than full sun intensity, most run their lights for 16 to 18 hours, as increased day length can compensate for lower intensity to a large degree. This is usually done for 9 months, then a 3 month dormancy or rest of 10 or 11 hours day length. Though for tropicals I kept 18 hours year round.
BonsaiMan11
Seedling
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Hi guys, new here to BN - I need some feedback if possible and applicable. I have a few Shimpaku and Sabina junipers that need an emergency repot and wanted to ask if anyone has had to repot in the middle of summer due to the roots not getting enough oxygen and its manifesting on the tips of the Sabina in particular. Something to keep in mind is that I purchased the sabina from a big box nursery which means that roots were showing from the bottom of the 5 gallon pot. The shimpaku is a 1 gallon pot and its rooting out of the bottom as well.
My questions are:
- Has anyone done a repot in the middle of summer in an arid environment (Las Vegas)
- How long should I shade the tree in order to give it a fighting chance if repotted?
- I repotted one (Sabina 5 gallon) and took off 20-30% of the roots and placed it in a mix of 1: 1: 1: 1: Akadama/Pumice/lava/peat moss for a bit more moisture retention due to the heat waves we have here.
- Should I wait to do the emergency repot for the shimpaku or will shading it for a few weeks help after doing root work while keeping it humid at 76 degrees inside.
Thanks for whoever responds.
My questions are:
- Has anyone done a repot in the middle of summer in an arid environment (Las Vegas)
- How long should I shade the tree in order to give it a fighting chance if repotted?
- I repotted one (Sabina 5 gallon) and took off 20-30% of the roots and placed it in a mix of 1: 1: 1: 1: Akadama/Pumice/lava/peat moss for a bit more moisture retention due to the heat waves we have here.
- Should I wait to do the emergency repot for the shimpaku or will shading it for a few weeks help after doing root work while keeping it humid at 76 degrees inside.
Thanks for whoever responds.
Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
Answers to these questions will help us help you.
What kind of soil are these in?
Where are they, outside, inside, full sun, partial sun?
What are the outside temperatures in your area now?
How often are you watering?
Can you please post pictures of the trees so we can see what is going on?
