Need some help on Elm

[j evans]

Here is what I see as the main differences: The right branch instead of going up needed to be wired and brought downward, the lower left branch needs to extend our further but this will be done in time, also needs to be wired to have some movement and the apex could have been brought downward towards the left a bit more thus not having such a straight up feeling. The bottom branch on the right is not there yet and I don't know if it looks right. Tree can be adjusted in the pot at anytime.

Think these are what I see. In order to adjust these is it best to remove the apex and the branch on the right and start over (or cut them very short) and let grow out again?

Thank you for your help.

 

[Smoke]

I think you will find that once you get the tree at the proper height that the first branch on the left will be the first branch. The branch on the right going up will be second branch. The small stub you added below the right branch is/will not be needed. Besides, no sense in growing a bar branch right? I would reduce to one leader, it seems there are two.... to me anyway. Let that first branch on the left run this year and bulk up. Just keep an eye on it. Wire it now. That bigger branch on the right would probably come down with a guy wire. It's not that big yet. If it breaks just leave stub 1/8 inch and it will shoot out. You can grow a new branch by Fall.

 

[Smoke]

I will talk about roots later tonight

 

[Smoke]

Roots on elm should always be buried. Elm roots grow extremely fast and are large and fleshy. If not dealt with yearly they will continue to push the tree out of the pot with each passing year. Sometimes like on this tree, the tree can be planted deeper and covered with moss to bring back the feeder roots which issue from the large roots. The large roots can be cut back by as much as two thirds without issue and developed from there. If the roots are exposed for more than a season and begin lignification process, it is very hard to turn them into roots again. This is what most people experience with elm roots, the exposed portion from being root bound in too small a pot and not up potted. Many beginners see these roots and mistake that for something which should be highly prized in bonsai, which it is not.

Flat roots on the soil surface - Good.
Unruly, gnarled roots like a claw - Bad.

Do not confuse roots such as these above with the Neagari style which has roots which are exposed but arranged in a pleasing and lacy fashion. the roots will be singular with lots of space in between and seen to support the tree.

Evans tree could be developed to look that way with little work over a few years by selectively removing some of the roots and allowing the plant to be lifted throughout the year exposing the lengthening roots a little each month. Within a few years the tree will be quite stilted and could become quite beautiful.

 

[j evans]

That is a quite unique look. Guess I didn't realize that I had a root "situation". I kind of like the look of the tree dropped a bit in the pot but also the Neagari style would make the tree more unique and stand out from others if I could make the existing roots fit that style. I'll have to take a closer look at tree. Thank you for the help

Jamie

 

[j evans]

I did some wiring on this tree and I haven't done much before. How long before I need to start checking to see if the wire is biting in? Thanks

 

[M. Frary]

I did some wiring on this tree and I haven't done much before. How long before I need to start checking to see if the wire is biting in? Thanks

They grow fast. I check mine before 2 weeks are up.
One day fine the next starting to dig in. Just keep an eye on it.

 

[sorce]

@Vin that's my elm!

@j evans your tree doesn't HAVE to get styled like a pine....

It could use a little work but a natural broom is fine....

If you look at the one pic where your J maple canopy is right behind the tree....
You can kind of see how stupid it looks with a bent down crown.

Just sayin....

But hey....found out holding trunks up to fill size canopies could give us an idea of what will look good!
Cool trick!

Sorce

 

[j evans]

Thought I would show you how I did that just in case you hadn't tried it before. Thanks for the thoughts.

 

[j evans]

Well, here is the tree today. First shot is directly out of the winter hideaway, second is after trimming, third is root growth and fourth us back in pot. I have not addressed the raised roots as of yet. After six years the look has grown on me. I'm looking for comments and any suggestions. Thanks.

 

[sorce]

It looks way better than before.

Sorce

 

[j evans]

Only thing I was thinking is maybe I didn't cut it back far enough. Any thoughts on that? Anything else? Thanks

 

[just.wing.it]

I think you cut it back plenty to be safe, but could've gone more...

What kind of substrate did you plant it in???

 

[Tieball]

You can accomplish a lot with cut and grow on the Elms. The discipline is to visualize the tree canopy out about 3-4 years. When I cut branches I specifically look for bud direction. I also look at a branch I’m cutting and look for those buds that are closer together...usually closer to the starting point of the branch. The buds are usually close together than there’s a bigger gap before the next bud....my cuts are usually before that big gap.

I think you’re doing fine. There’s probably a few branches that could use a further cut.

I also try to wait until a branch grows out several inches and the leaves harden before cutting back. I cut before that time and watched branches die back slowly....I think the tree is thinking...well, growth there isn’t going to happen so it sends energy elsewhere and abandons that cut branch. Let it grow wild...then cut back. Works for me.

 

[Tieball]

@markyscott has a thread going “Field-grown Trident”. Read through it....I believe that there are application processes he does and explains that easily apply to your Elm work.

 

[j evans]

It is planted in a mixture of 1/3 potting soil, 1/3 small bark and 1/3 lava rock, although I upped the lava rock a bit when reporting. The reason for the potting soil is the heat coming later in the summer. Thanks for your comments.

 

[j evans]

Got this tree out yesterday and trimmed up. Yes it still has the exposed roots and the "L" root, I'm still on the fence on those. I'm looking for some input and opinions on the "body of the tree. It is 16" tall from the soil and almost 15" wide. My concern is that I kind of feel that it is almost too wide with too many branches and some of them are too straight. Yes I'm asking for opinions and criticism. I want a better tree! Bring on the nut cracker!

 

[j evans]

Too tall with too long of a leader? Thoughts?

 

[LanceMac10]

Third photo, looks like a nicely positioned branch after second bend. I'd cut back to that shoot.

Not a fan of the somewhat wonky roots, however.

What view do you plan to show?

 

[j evans]

No show just for fun.
I kind of like the first photo only because of the void in the trunk about 2" above the soil, but that view has some branches straight towards you
I see where you are talking about I believe and that would make a good leader that I could shorten up.
I would just have to regrow the left side then.
Time permitting I will do a rough vert and see what it looks like.
Thanks for the help
At times I don't like the roots and other times I think they are different.
It is the way that I obtained the tree so I have kept them.
Thanks again