Need some guidance with my Maple

[kthehun89]

Hey everyone, this is my first post here! Loving the site, don't know why I didn't join sooner.

I recently picked up this Japanese maple that has some age to it, but not very much training. The tree sits at almost 20", and has a relatively thin trunk with no real movement. The roots are nice and developed, with three main roots grasping into the soil. My goals for this tree are to thicken the trunk and give some movement to the body. As you see now, the main branch is very straight with a gradual taper, and I'd definitely like to change this.

I am considering planting the tree the ground over a piece of slate. My goal by this will be to thicken the trunk and flair out the root base. I'd leave foliage and branches to their own devices for the most part for 1-2 years depending on progress. Then, when thickness is desired, I'd remove it and pot it again.

After thickening has been completed, I am would like to work on the shape to get it to what I want it to be. This is where I'm at a loss. I'm considering taking a good portion of the main branch off and redirecting the tree to the interior as it is now. Should I go ahead and do this now, or wait until I am pleased with the trunk? Would taking the circled portion in the picture be worth it now or later?

Thanks for any help given. I am somewhat experienced, but haven't worked with a maple

K

 

[gionk]

hi, and welcome. im about as new as you here on the forum!

i just spent the last 3-4 years growing out a japanese lace leaf in a large wooden box. amazes me just how much it thickened, and how much the nebari improved. i repotted it this spring and did some work to comb the roots out. i shortened all the bottom roots and left the top ones long to further strengthen the flare and nebari.

check out this article:
http://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2012/02/29/japanese-maple-nebari-development/

i would say a lot depends on your long term goals. for me, i would agree with develop the trunk and nebari first. leave all the sacrifice branches that are there and let it grow wild
maybe to improve the taper, it would be best to let that first branch grow the most, and retard the rest by pruning or selective defoliation.

im no expert yet, but my .02

 

[Poink88]

I'll go with your plan to plant it on the ground but train it so that you eventually chop just after the first branch . That is what I see as as your best bet design wise from these pics.

Good luck!

 

[MACH5]

I'll go with your plan to plant it on the ground but train it so that you eventually chop just after the first branch . That is what I see as as your best bet design wise from these pics.

Good luck!

Yes agreed! Start establishing your trunk line as you let your tree grow and thicken. It can be done later but I would start now. As Dario said, I would cut off right after the first branch. This branch will then be wired and trained to be your new leader.

Also, next year in Spring, I would take a good look at your roots. Cut away any that cross over, are too long or growing down. In order to do this, you must wash away all the soil from the roots. If done at the correct time, your maple will do just fine.

 

[jk_lewis]

I'm not at all sure I'd chop it. The trunk is still thin, as you say. I think I'd consider getting some heavy wire and putting some decent movement in that trunk. Don't wire too tightly, as maple bark scars easily, and keep and eye on it so it can be removed (then re-wired if necessary) before it bites in.

After the movement is set, then plant it out if you wish, but uyou might like the slender trunk with curves.

Chopping is the easy, but I think the least promising, way out.

 

[MACH5]

I'm not at all sure I'd chop it. The trunk is still thin, as you say. I think I'd consider getting some heavy wire and putting some decent movement in that trunk. Don't wire too tightly, as maple bark scars easily, and keep and eye on it so it can be removed (then re-wired if necessary) before it bites in.

After the movement is set, then plant it out if you wish, but uyou might like the slender trunk with curves.

Chopping is the easy, but I think the least promising, way out.

Yes certainly another way to approach it. To add to this, I would recommend wrapping your wire in floral tape or something similar to avoid damage to the bark. Also consider making your bends a bit more pronounced since as the tree ages and thickens, the curves and bends grow more subtle.

I would also add that chopping low, right above the first branch is not what I would consider the "easy way or least promising". It is solid advice in how you can properly build a dynamic trunk line albeit a longer term proposition.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Welcome to the nuthouse. If you plan to plant this tree in the ground, I wouldn't bother pruning it back first, since the whole goal of planting in the ground is to get explosive growth.

I'd heel it in now, study a little on nebari development while it grows wild this year. Do formative root work next spring, create a trunk line at that time too (through pruning, not wiring), and then plant it back in the ground for another few years.

Time in the ground can make the present material unrecognizable after a few years. That's why it's less important to prune it back now.

Here's an example of a Chinese quince that I got in 2006, and another shot of the same tree this spring, 7 years later. It no longer looks like the same tree, but it takes lots of growth to get there. Different tree, but my maple progression (link above) takes place over roughly the same period of time. Big difference in trunk development between the two!

 

[MACH5]

Welcome to the nuthouse. If you plan to plant this tree in the ground, I wouldn't bother pruning it back first, since the whole goal of planting in the ground is to get explosive growth.

I'd heel it in now, study a little on nebari development while it grows wild this year. Do formative root work next spring, create a trunk line at that time too (through pruning, not wiring), and then plant it back in the ground for another few years.

Time in the ground can make the present material unrecognizable after a few years. That's why it's less important to prune it back now.

Here's an example of a Chinese quince that I got in 2006, and another shot of the same tree this spring, 7 years later. It no longer looks like the same tree, but it takes lots of growth to get there. Different tree, but my maple progression (link above) takes place over roughly the same period of time. Big difference in trunk development between the two!

I would say to follow what Brian suggests. You can't go wrong with him. He has many beautiful examples to prove what he's talking about.

My suggestion was to cut now for rough shape and then let go wild. Just a bit of a different timing preference

 

[kthehun89]

Ok guys, thanks for the awesome suggestions.

Here's my next question/conundrum... I am in an apartment now and will be moving up to the San Francisco area in September. I will be able to plant some specimens in my uncle's Japanese garden after I move. I am thinking about putting it into a large pastic tub for now and then transplanting it into the ground next spring. Should I just leave it until then? I figure repotting it will alow me to inspect the root ball and allow me to do some minor preparation before letting it to wild. Thoughts?

 

[MACH5]

I would definitely leave all work for next Spring when you put it in the ground. You can however just place the tree in a bigger container now. Just make sure you don't disturb the roots and also that your new pot is not too large. You don't want your soil to stay too wet for long. The words "plastic tub" worried me a bit

 

[kthehun89]

I would definitely leave all work for next Spring when you put it in the ground. You can however just place the tree in a bigger container now. Just make sure you don't disturb the roots and also that your new pot is not too large. You don't want your soil to stay too wet for long. The words "plastic tub" worried me a bit

Will do! I was talking about a wide stance 5g pot or something

 

[MACH5]

I think 5g is way too big. You can get plenty of growth with something like 10" to 12" round pot. A shallower container would be much better as well.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I think 5g is way too big. You can get plenty of growth with something like 10" to 12" round pot. A shallower container would be much better as well.

Agreed...good plan M5.

 

[kthehun89]

Alright, game plan is to pull her from her pot now, re-pot in a larger training. I'll keep from trimming it any this year. Next spring she goes wild. Awesome!