Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Here is what we do know. The tree has been in this state for a number of years. The roots as they are formed now are very similar to a tree that was root bound at one stage and simply potted up into a larger container without straightening out the roots at all. Trying to bare root and straighten out the roots is not an option with the hope of the tree's survival. So we are faced with attempting to make a decent nebari out of a bird nest.
The first thing I would do would be to get the tree out of a bonsai pot and into something like one of my planters or any other training box where it had room to grow. On the initial repot I would remove as much of the old soil as I could up to 50% and separate from the base of the trunk 25% of the smaller encircling roots. I would not even attempt to pull them from the soil, they will dry up by themselves and be removed at the next repotting. Three years down the road. Remove the tree from the training planter. Remove soil from the bottom of the soil mass and attempt to remove more soil into the core of the old soil ball. This is important in encouraging the tree to form new surface roots.
I would like to give you some sort of percentage here but at this point you kind of have to let circumstances dictate actions. However the roots you cut in the beginning will provide you with some voids that can be exploited. Care should be taken to disturb new roots as little as possible. Once again Remove more of the encircling roots as before. Repot and continue with the process until the surface roots are recreated. It helps to pack the surface with Sphagnum moss. We are kind of air layering the trunk in a sort of back handed way by forcing the tree to produce new surface roots by discouraging the option of deep roots. As long as we continue to cut away the surface roots we don't want as part of the root pruning regimen we will eventually create a new surface root system.
The accompanying photo of a Mugo Pine was in this same condition about ten years ago. I do not have a close up of the base but I know someone will ask to see if I had done this, and yes I have.
The first thing I would do would be to get the tree out of a bonsai pot and into something like one of my planters or any other training box where it had room to grow. On the initial repot I would remove as much of the old soil as I could up to 50% and separate from the base of the trunk 25% of the smaller encircling roots. I would not even attempt to pull them from the soil, they will dry up by themselves and be removed at the next repotting. Three years down the road. Remove the tree from the training planter. Remove soil from the bottom of the soil mass and attempt to remove more soil into the core of the old soil ball. This is important in encouraging the tree to form new surface roots.
I would like to give you some sort of percentage here but at this point you kind of have to let circumstances dictate actions. However the roots you cut in the beginning will provide you with some voids that can be exploited. Care should be taken to disturb new roots as little as possible. Once again Remove more of the encircling roots as before. Repot and continue with the process until the surface roots are recreated. It helps to pack the surface with Sphagnum moss. We are kind of air layering the trunk in a sort of back handed way by forcing the tree to produce new surface roots by discouraging the option of deep roots. As long as we continue to cut away the surface roots we don't want as part of the root pruning regimen we will eventually create a new surface root system.
The accompanying photo of a Mugo Pine was in this same condition about ten years ago. I do not have a close up of the base but I know someone will ask to see if I had done this, and yes I have.