Mt Maple - Lift today or rest another year?

[Shogun610]

Do you mean I need to take better pics of the bones?
Hah, I can't see them either. You'll have to scroll up to post 41 second pic.

I am I am LOL I haven't touched it, but thanks for the reminder to feed it.
It's been so wet I can't use liquid feed yet though.

In all seriousness..I would use organic feed because , it would be a low enough NPK that it won’t elongate any nodes like stronger growth fertilizer might.You could eventually do some pruning to allow interior light on those inner shoots

 

[HorseloverFat]

Hehe! No! I’m familiar with the bones.. just commenting on how their covered!

I’m looking at post # 45 right now.

Is that the chosen front?

 

[Japonicus]

In all seriousness..I would use organic feed because , it would be a low enough NPK that it won’t elongate any nodes like stronger growth fertilizer might.You could eventually do some pruning to allow interior light on those inner shoots

Yes I'm using granular like Espoma plant tone. Good thought on the internode length.

Hehe! No! I’m familiar with the bones.. just commenting on how their covered!

I’m looking at post # 45 right now.

Is that the chosen front?

I don't think so. I think the rotten front has a decent enough nebari and the
cane like branches have a wrap around affect. The rotten part will be a character feature.

 

[Paradox]

What should I do with cousin It here, (besides weeding)?

I think leaving it alone and just feeding and watering is your best course of action right now.
Let it get stronger

 

[Japonicus]

Going on another year now I've not touched this tree.

There are a few branches that have died back below the cuts.
I don't plan on looking at the roots before 2024 given the lack of vigour.
What should I be doing to this as far as branch selection at this point?

 

[Shibui]

What should I be doing to this as far as branch selection at this point?

Look for a trunk line and shape. Many large, upright branches seem confused so I'd be looking to simplify the shape, probably by removing a couple of those strong upward branches. Without seeing the tree in 3D I would not like to pick because small nuances can have a big bearing on shape and flow.

The growth appears to indicate a dwarf variety which may explain some of the lack of vigour but I would also be looking at care, position, etc to try to get better growth before doing much further work.

 

[Japonicus]

Look for a trunk line and shape. Many large, upright branches seem confused so I'd be looking to simplify the shape, probably by removing a couple of those strong upward branches. Without seeing the tree in 3D I would not like to pick because small nuances can have a big bearing on shape and flow.

The growth appears to indicate a dwarf variety which may explain some of the lack of vigour but I would also be looking at care, position, etc to try to get better growth before doing much further work.

If my understanding is correct, Mt Maple (palmatum palmatum) the basic green under stock
most cultivars are grafted to, is not dwarf.

I do think it needs more Sun though, it only gets morning Sun directly.

Where the tips of the cut back branches have died back to growth, when do I begin cutting that away?

 

[Shibui]

If my understanding is correct, Mt Maple (palmatum palmatum) the basic green under stock
most cultivars are grafted to, is not dwarf.

Basig green AP would be normal for root stock. I id not read back to check on origins. The question was because of what appears to be mostly very short internodes on the new shoots. This pattern is typical of the smallest growing AP cultivars.
It may just be the scale (or lack of) in the photo, could be slower growth after recovering from previous work, or conditions in your area. Also possible that the particular seedling used to graft with was different from most. Difference is common in JM seedlings depending where the seed was collected.

Where the tips of the cut back branches have died back to growth, when do I begin cutting that away?

Recut back to healthy shoots when you are satisfied those shoots are growing strong enough to draw sap.
2 trunks on the left (looking at the house) appear to have growth strong enough to cut back to but I'd definitely leave the right side until those shoots start drawing more sap and grow better. Good growth is key to preventing further die back and to closing wounds.

 

[Japonicus]

Basig green AP would be normal for root stock. I id not read back to check on origins. The question was because of what appears to be mostly very short internodes on the new shoots. This pattern is typical of the smallest growing AP cultivars.
It may just be the scale (or lack of) in the photo, could be slower growth after recovering from previous work, or conditions in your area. Also possible that the particular seedling used to graft with was different from most. Difference is common in JM seedlings depending where the seed was collected.


Recut back to healthy shoots when you are satisfied those shoots are growing strong enough to draw sap.
2 trunks on the left (looking at the house) appear to have growth strong enough to cut back to but I'd definitely leave the right side until those shoots start drawing more sap and grow better. Good growth is key to preventing further die back and to closing wounds.

You’re correct, the internodes are very tight and a direct response to the severe work performed.
I do wish I had waited to cut back as far as had been recommended, and stuck with my gut feeling here.
I believe the amount of wood removal on the top side, left too little surface area for root recovery.
I plan to move the tree to a sunnier location this Spring, but unsure of timing vs leaf out.

 

[Shibui]

You’re correct, the internodes are very tight and a direct response to the severe work performed.
I do wish I had waited to cut back as far as had been recommended, and stuck with my gut feeling here.
I believe the amount of wood removal on the top side, left too little surface area for root recovery.
I plan to move the tree to a sunnier location this Spring, but unsure of timing vs leaf out.

It will be interesting to see the response as it recovers and to new conditions. I have a couple of clones here that respond with similar close internode growth for a few months after pruning then change to long internodes and lanky growth as they recover. Just thought this one could have been a similar type.

Subject to cold (which I don't have to deal with) I prefer to move trees to sunshine before the leaves open. Leaves that open in sun are hardy but leaves that open in shade don't develop sun hardiness so moving later can cause burnt leaves (not a real drama as new leaves will replace burnt ones but any setback is a setback)

 

[Japonicus]

I have moved this maple to the SE side of this landscape JM underneath the canopy a little bit.
This will provide shading I'm thinking around 3pm local time once in full leaf. I can move it further back
once leafed out and adjust the exposure.

Had I not attached the oak slats underneath, this grow box would not have survived the trip around the house.

 

[HorseloverFat]

God I love this one!

Really excited to watch it EXPLODE!