namnhi
Masterpiece
Mine also push new growth so now is the second flush for them but fertilizer probably will make it grow stronger.
Maiden's Cork Oak
- Thread starter Maiden69
- Start date
LuZiKui
Shohin
Cool tree! We'll have to start a @Housguy thread with all of the oaks/olives that Bnut people have bought over the years.
Mine is still early on in development but I do a similar Walter Pall style hedge pruning for it. I'll prune to general shape and might wire a couple of branches to fill in some empty space. Other than that I let it do it's thing. The nice part is that the natural growth of corkers creates a lot of movement in the branches so you don't have to wire individual branches as much (at least in this phase).
I pruned mine in spring and it has sent out 2 flushes of new growth. As for watering I moved mine into a training box with 90% pumice, 10% pine bark mix and even when it hits 100, I water 1 time per day. I do have a good amount of soil volume though so it holds some moisture.
Also as others have mentioned they love growing at the top. I usually trim back harder at the apex and leave the lower branches a bit longer to try and balance the growth a little bit. As for repotting, I reduced the root ball by about 50% on my initial repot and it didn't skip a beat. You could probably do more but I figured I would err on the side of caution on the first go round.
Looking forward to the progression of this tree!
Mine is still early on in development but I do a similar Walter Pall style hedge pruning for it. I'll prune to general shape and might wire a couple of branches to fill in some empty space. Other than that I let it do it's thing. The nice part is that the natural growth of corkers creates a lot of movement in the branches so you don't have to wire individual branches as much (at least in this phase).
I pruned mine in spring and it has sent out 2 flushes of new growth. As for watering I moved mine into a training box with 90% pumice, 10% pine bark mix and even when it hits 100, I water 1 time per day. I do have a good amount of soil volume though so it holds some moisture.
Also as others have mentioned they love growing at the top. I usually trim back harder at the apex and leave the lower branches a bit longer to try and balance the growth a little bit. As for repotting, I reduced the root ball by about 50% on my initial repot and it didn't skip a beat. You could probably do more but I figured I would err on the side of caution on the first go round.
Looking forward to the progression of this tree!
Maiden69
Masterpiece
Small update, this thing either loves the weather here or is getting a kick of the @cmeg1 nutrition I gave it the last 2 weeks. 5:2 kelp to fulvic/humic, a sprinkle of CalMag, and a dash of Yucca into a Miracle Grow brine.
I'm watering it every three days as the soil it is on hold a lot of water. It is very light when dry and about 5 times the weight right after watering it. I uncertain if I want to just move it into a pot in spring, or a Root Pouch and into the grow bed to make it a larger tree. The proportion are decent now, but with all the advice that it really corks up fast it will be extremely difficult to keep at this size without the trunk getting out of proportion.
Anyone can vouch for suber being an easy species for cuttings? I'm going to attempt to wire the first few inches of elongation into place and let them run in the lower part of the tree while cutting back the top. We still have more than 6-8 weeks of warm days, so hopefully it doesn't bite me in the butt.
I'm watering it every three days as the soil it is on hold a lot of water. It is very light when dry and about 5 times the weight right after watering it. I uncertain if I want to just move it into a pot in spring, or a Root Pouch and into the grow bed to make it a larger tree. The proportion are decent now, but with all the advice that it really corks up fast it will be extremely difficult to keep at this size without the trunk getting out of proportion.
Anyone can vouch for suber being an easy species for cuttings? I'm going to attempt to wire the first few inches of elongation into place and let them run in the lower part of the tree while cutting back the top. We still have more than 6-8 weeks of warm days, so hopefully it doesn't bite me in the butt.
Housguy
Chumono
Looking great and it is definitely happy! You can get roots off cuttings and they can air layer as well. I have done more air layering than cuttings, but with little soft shoots, they will root.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
I was reading this site last night, and they say that you can get 1/4-1/2" cuttings to root when taken in late summer, I guess my window is gone. I'll probably try next year.
How to Propagate Cork Oak (Quercus suber)
A commercial nursery guide on how to propagate cork oak (Quercus suber), a renewable powerhouse for eco-friendly products.
www.ecofriendlyincome.com
Maiden69
Masterpiece
This tree is taking off...
Housguy
Chumono
like a rocket, nice!
Maiden69
Masterpiece
@Housguy a few questions, also for those with more experience on suber.
When you develop your suber and wire the trunk, do you let the wire bite in? I know with rough bark trees this is not an issue, as the bark will grow over hiding the marks. But in the case of this tree, does it have an effect on the shape of the bark? I have 3 seedlings that I will probably be wiring the trunk soon to give them a little "wiggle" so they are not pole straight, and wanted to know if I should wire as usual, or leave a little room between the trunk and the wire. I don't plan on doing any radical movement, so I don't foresee them needing to coil tight and twist as I bend.
How late do you do the last trim for the year. On deciduous I know it is when the majority of the leaves change color, but on an evergreen?
How much root work can be done on repot? I guess repot for this would be early spring before growth pushes?
I think I will need to clean up the upper soil, I'm letting the first 1/2" dry out before watering again, I can tell it is still moist below that, and the soil is very hydrophobic. It will pool up in a second, and after a few rounds of watering it will drain, but very slowly. The root mass don't seem to be too compact, as I can push the top soil and feel it as a sponge.
Last one, the 3 seedlings I have are in small 2 3/4" pots, roots are growing aggressively from the bottom into my above ground bed. Could this be repotted now in fall? Or should I let them grow like that and sever them in spring and do full root work then?
The more I look at the tree, the more I want to move it into a pot and start developing. Maybe move into Pouch for one year to produce lots of feeder roots this year, and into a pot in 2025. Then use the seedlings I have now to really let grow unimpeded for a few years on the grow bed.
When you develop your suber and wire the trunk, do you let the wire bite in? I know with rough bark trees this is not an issue, as the bark will grow over hiding the marks. But in the case of this tree, does it have an effect on the shape of the bark? I have 3 seedlings that I will probably be wiring the trunk soon to give them a little "wiggle" so they are not pole straight, and wanted to know if I should wire as usual, or leave a little room between the trunk and the wire. I don't plan on doing any radical movement, so I don't foresee them needing to coil tight and twist as I bend.
How late do you do the last trim for the year. On deciduous I know it is when the majority of the leaves change color, but on an evergreen?
How much root work can be done on repot? I guess repot for this would be early spring before growth pushes?
I think I will need to clean up the upper soil, I'm letting the first 1/2" dry out before watering again, I can tell it is still moist below that, and the soil is very hydrophobic. It will pool up in a second, and after a few rounds of watering it will drain, but very slowly. The root mass don't seem to be too compact, as I can push the top soil and feel it as a sponge.
Last one, the 3 seedlings I have are in small 2 3/4" pots, roots are growing aggressively from the bottom into my above ground bed. Could this be repotted now in fall? Or should I let them grow like that and sever them in spring and do full root work then?
The more I look at the tree, the more I want to move it into a pot and start developing. Maybe move into Pouch for one year to produce lots of feeder roots this year, and into a pot in 2025. Then use the seedlings I have now to really let grow unimpeded for a few years on the grow bed.
Housguy
Chumono
I intentionally don't, but I have many trees and it happens here and there and yes it will disappear over time, but I have never tried keeping the wire on, I am sure it would affect the shape a little by increasing the girth of the bark. Go for it, would like to see how it turns out, lol.
Around late fall/early winter, when the tree slows down and not growing aggressively. With a really healthy tree, pretty aggressive, I have hack 3/4 or more off a root ball and the tree bounced back no problem. We repot these trees pretty much when needed in our climate and do a lot of repotting in winter when the tree is in a slumber, but you do live in a true four season state and spring would probably be a wiser time to do your repot.
I would let them grow and do your work in the spring.
Take care.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
I'm not intending on keeping it on as some people do on JBP, just let it bite to solidify the shape then remove, say around 50% imbedded into the bark before removing.
Housguy
Chumono
I like it, I think it would make a cool twisting look of the bark once it matures and bark is really corked out.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
All the leaves on the long extensions that grew over the last summer/fall had some sort of frost damage this year, but there are new buds coming out of them right now. This tree was set in the middle of the tent I made with frost blankets and endured ~10 degree weather because of the windchill factor, and the tent blowing over because of very high winds. I think it is time for a repot, so will try to get that done this coming weekend, or earlier if possible. Not sure if this being a Mediterranean would benefit from summer repot, but as far as I know I can be a little more aggressive on spring vs summer.
namnhi
Masterpiece
I think it is time for repotting in SE TX. Our forecast for the next 10 days is cool at night mid 40s and mild in the day (low 70s/ high 60s). Repotting is in full swing here but I will just pick and choose what I want to work on and not try to kill myself to get it all repotted.
Housguy
Chumono
Way to protect it though! If your temps are stable now, a repot is in the cards for sure.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
as of right now they are stable... but knowing Texas I will be ready to place it with the tropicals if any weird cold spell comes through.
MRdoozlSnoozl__
Seedling
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Like what does this tidbit have to do with op tending to his unit properly and ensuring its survival
Maiden69
Masterpiece
What?
Maiden69
Masterpiece
I'm not sure if the tree will make it, it had a very thick tap root coiling around the pot. Had I been at my house instead of an apartment with adequate tools, a strong pressure water hose I would have probably had more patience and the tree would probably fare better. The soil was a sandy loam type, very organic, reminded me of the lands here in the area that were used for farming. Didn't took too many pics again, as I had to clean my hands from the mud every time to take them. I did not cut back the branches on the tree. It is pushing buds now and I want it to have as much foliage as it can open to recuperate as fast as possible. I think if it survives, it will thrive now that the roots are not in heavy soil. Hopefully that will also help it push roots faster as well.
Here is the tree in the bag now.
The main tap root went from directly under the trunk taking a 90 degree bend towards the left side and immediately turn again 180 degrees back towards the tree. I couldn't see the movement until I had cut the root off freeing the tree. There were quite a few smaller feeder roots radially out of the trunks, which made me decide to do the cut.
Tap goes beck and around under tis cut.
Here you can see the tap root location in reference to the trunk/
After smoothing the cut area flat under the tree, and the amount of roots left.
Here is the tree in the bag now.
The main tap root went from directly under the trunk taking a 90 degree bend towards the left side and immediately turn again 180 degrees back towards the tree. I couldn't see the movement until I had cut the root off freeing the tree. There were quite a few smaller feeder roots radially out of the trunks, which made me decide to do the cut.
Tap goes beck and around under tis cut.
Here you can see the tap root location in reference to the trunk/
After smoothing the cut area flat under the tree, and the amount of roots left.
namnhi
Masterpiece
Still seeing plenty of roots left. Together with the timing of bud break. I don't see anything to worry about.
Housguy
Chumono
Great that you got it out of that soil and into a better mix, if already budding now, you should be fine moving into spring with it.
