List of Hardwood Cuttings

[Leo in N E Illinois]

There are 3 age of tissue "types" for taking cuttings, whether the cuttings root or not is very dependent on conditions.

softwood, semi-hardwood and hardwood cuttings.

It is perfectly legitimate to attempt all 3 methods with any and all trees or shrubs. No results are guaranteed.

I have had success with many, failures with many. I even had willow cuttings fail. I have successfully rooted Japanese black pine, in one out of 4 attempts.

Don't bother worrying about lists. If you have a tree that merits production, make a few cuttings and see what happens. Your success or failure will not create a new paradigm. But if you succeed, you will have more than you started with.

Do not bet the mortgage on getting a batch of scions to strike roots. Only make the bet after you have the roots.

Seriously the book by Dirr is priceless for the propagator, but it is the standard for good technique, it is not the exhaustive list of all that is possible. If you don't know if it will root, just give it a try, and see what happens. Even trees that supposedly "never" root from cuttings, like oak or pine, will once in a while root.

 

[River's Edge]

There are 3 age of tissue "types" for taking cuttings, whether the cuttings root or not is very dependent on conditions.

softwood, semi-hardwood and hardwood cuttings.

It is perfectly legitimate to attempt all 3 methods with any and all trees or shrubs. No results are guaranteed.

I have had success with many, failures with many. I even had willow cuttings fail. I have successfully rooted Japanese black pine, in one out of 4 attempts.

Don't bother worrying about lists. If you have a tree that merits production, make a few cuttings and see what happens. Your success or failure will not create a new paradigm. But if you succeed, you will have more than you started with.

Do not bet the mortgage on getting a batch of scions to strike roots. Only make the bet after you have the roots.

Seriously the book by Dirr is priceless for the propagator, but it is the standard for good technique, it is not the exhaustive list of all that is possible. If you don't know if it will root, just give it a try, and see what happens. Even trees that supposedly "never" root from cuttings, like oak or pine, will once in a while root.

Dirr contains a lot of research results with specific references. I find this very useful when wanting to work with material that is not listed in Dirr. Dirr is not focussed on cultivars or species that are typically used for Bonsai, but rather the material that has commercial value to the nursery trade. For that reason one needs to apply the principles and extrapolate on the techniques when considering a lot of Bonsai " cultivars"
I agree that there is so much variation within species and cultivars that it is important to try out a variety of techniques and approaches. And certainly do not expect success every time out. Many species are labelled as difficult to propagate for a reason.

It pays to remember that research goes with funding and so it is not unusual that there is a lack of research specific to Bonsai " cultivars".

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

The more your conditions approximate a professional propagator's cutting bed set up as described in Dirr's Manual of Propagation of Woody Trees and Shrubs, the higher your chances of success.

However even the simple, stick a cutting in a pot of moist sphagnum moss, plunk the pot of moss in a large plastic zip lock bag, seal and set in bright shade set up can work quite well.

Don't fret about whether it "should" or "should not" root, just do. By the same token, don't be disappointed if it fails. they often fail.

Hardwood cuttings taken in late winter before bud break have the benefit that the cuttings typically will only open a few leaves until enough roots develop to support the cutting. In the Chicago-Milwaukee area right now is a good time for hardwood cuttings of Malus, Forsythia and many flowering shrubs.

 

[ShadyStump]

For those as yet unfamiliar, the book mentioned is The Reference Manual Of Woody Plant Propagation by Dirr and Hueser, a compilation of science backed methods and trees under the topic of, you guessed it, propagation.

I believe this may be my father's day gift to myself this year.

 

[james]

Going to try a variety of maple hardwood cuttings late winter, early spring. Long shoots that will result from seasonal cut back. Trident and several Japanese maple cultivars.

Any experience with these from the group? Last year I put them in standard bonsai soil mix (Boon mix to be specific). In greenhouse, low 40F. About half of the tridents took, far less of Japanese maple cultivars.

Considerations to increase success? Use sand, other soil? Consider Grodan grow cubes? Bottom heat?

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Nov 2016 - took about 400 cuttings of highbush blueberry 'Bluecrop' and 'Jersey'. Cuttings were all from stems that were first year or first and second year from emerging from roots. No wood old enough to flower. For Vaccinium this is the "commercial recommendation". Highbush blueberries routinely produce branches from the roots, for cuttings, the one or two year old branches are what you want. Fruiting is on 4 year old branches from the roots. These branches tend to live upwards of 20 years, then at some point the roots abandon the older branches in favor of younger branches. Highest fruit production by weight is on 4 to 10 year old branches.

Struck the cuttings in a peat, orchid bark, perlite, with a small % hardwood sawdust mix, in November. No rooting hormone. Left the set up outdoors, protected from wind, but fully exposed to cold and snow. Most produced a few small leaves in spring. Kept in half day of direct, no shade sun, half day of dappled shade. In July a fair number of cuttings began growing branches, these had rooted, they grew new leaves. Others simple "coasted" with just a couple small leaves. Allowed all to ride out second winter without disturbing. Fully exposed, no protection from a zone 5a winter, except wind break on the south and the east. Snow piled on top.

In spring potted up those that had produced branches, those that had not did have callus, simple left them in the flat. That summer another batch began producing branches with bigger leaves. These have rooted. Following spring potted up all that rooted and produced branches.

Out of 400 cuttings struck, no hormones used, roughly 300 plants resulted. Planted most of them back into the blueberry rows on the farm.

About 200 rooted the first summer, about 100 rooted the second summer and about 100 eventually failed. The failures died, some right away, some staggered death as time went along. When flat was emptied at May 2020 maybe 25 had callus but no roots, these were tossed.

Point being, an extreme low tech method, produced enough to plant a commercially significant quantity of blueberries. Highbush blueberries are usually planted 1000 to 1200 bushes per acre.

 

[River's Edge]

Nov 2016 - took about 400 cuttings of highbush blueberry 'Bluecrop' and 'Jersey'. Cuttings were all from stems that were first year or first and second year from emerging from roots. No wood old enough to flower. For Vaccinium this is the "commercial recommendation". Highbush blueberries routinely produce branches from the roots, for cuttings, the one or two year old branches are what you want. Fruiting is on 4 year old branches from the roots. These branches tend to live upwards of 20 years, then at some point the roots abandon the older branches in favor of younger branches. Highest fruit production by weight is on 4 to 10 year old branches.

Struck the cuttings in a peat, orchid bark, perlite, with a small % hardwood sawdust mix, in November. No rooting hormone. Left the set up outdoors, protected from wind, but fully exposed to cold and snow. Most produced a few small leaves in spring. Kept in half day of direct, no shade sun, half day of dappled shade. In July a fair number of cuttings began growing branches, these had rooted, they grew new leaves. Others simple "coasted" with just a couple small leaves. Allowed all to ride out second winter without disturbing. Fully exposed, no protection from a zone 5a winter, except wind break on the south and the east. Snow piled on top.

In spring potted up those that had produced branches, those that had not did have callus, simple left them in the flat. That summer another batch began producing branches with bigger leaves. These have rooted. Following spring potted up all that rooted and produced branches.

Out of 400 cuttings struck, no hormones used, roughly 300 plants resulted. Planted most of them back into the blueberry rows on the farm.

About 200 rooted the first summer, about 100 rooted the second summer and about 100 eventually failed. The failures died, some right away, some staggered death as time went along. When flat was emptied at May 2020 maybe 25 had callus but no roots, these were tossed.

Point being, an extreme low tech method, produced enough to plant a commercially significant quantity of blueberries. Highbush blueberries are usually planted 1000 to 1200 bushes per acre.

I think it is also significant to note the point that cuttings can be slower to take off and should not be abandoned simply because they are not robust the first season. I have noticed this tendency with other species and difficult cultivars. Patience can be rewarding.

 

[ShadyStump]

No-go on the cercocarpus ledifolia hardwood cuttings.
There was no callusing from holding them over winter, though they were all still green under the bark, and none when I finally started culling and there was no green.

Contributing factors may include a soil that was too dense and wet - my mix steadily compacted over time, eventually draining half as well as when I started - and I battled mold the entire time.
I had luck with a two finger thick air layer last summer - waiting to see how winter treated it still - so theoretically hardwood cuttings should be possible.
If I get another chance, I think I'll skip holding them in the fridge, and use a much less organic soil. I used some compost in it this time because I was worried about the days I might forget to water, but that didn't turn out to be so much of a problem.

 

[namnhi]

Am trying a few hardwood trident maple and a lot of Chinese Quince. Nothing special just dunk them in perlite and trying to water twice a day, morning and early evening. Some are hardwood while many are from last year grow. We will see how they turn out.

 

[badatusernames]

Am trying a few hardwood trident maple and a lot of Chinese Quince. Nothing special just dunk them in perlite and trying to water twice a day, morning and early evening. Some are hardwood while many are from last year grow. View attachment 427694 We will see how they turn out.

I'm actually trying a couple Chinese Quince too from stuff I cut off another, I wasn't sure if it would work or not. Two of the three seem to be surviving, including the most interesting one.... I put some clonex on them and put them in small akadama. Figured it was at least worth seeing what happened. Glad to know there are others who think it's a good idea!

 

[namnhi]

I'm actually trying a couple Chinese Quince too from stuff I cut off another, I wasn't sure if it would work or not. Two of the three seem to be surviving, including the most interesting one.... I put some clonex on them and put them in small akadama. Figured it was at least worth seeing what happened. Glad to know there are others who think it's a good idea!

I remember came across @Brian Van Fleet thread that he has success with cuttings but not air layering. I think I have one that is still has green leaves from last year cutting.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Last year I was excited to successfully root English Hawthorn ‘Paul’s Scarlett’ cuttings. They are in leaf now.

Presently eagerly awaiting results of striking late winter (Feb ‘22) cuttings from various Japanese Maples, Tridents, and Quince. Almost all have pushed leaves out out their buds. I expect it will be at least a couple months before its saf3 to take a peek at this crop.

Chinese Quince react really well to layering a branch bent down in the ground, as do azaleas. It is a quick way to create a clump.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Dravic]

Last year I was excited to successfully root English Hawthorn ‘Paul’s Scarlett’ cuttings. They are in leaf now.

Presently eagerly awaiting results of striking late winter (Feb ‘22) cuttings from various Japanese Maples, Tridents, and Quince. Almost all have pushed leaves out out their buds. I expect it will be at least a couple months before its saf3 to take a peek at this crop.

Chinese Quince react really well to layering a branch bent down in the ground, as do azaleas. It is a quick way to create a clump.

cheers
DSD sends

Were the Paul's Scarlett Hawthorn cuttings hard or softwood?

 

[penumbra]

Last year I was excited to successfully root English Hawthorn ‘Paul’s Scarlett’ cuttings. They are in leaf now.

I understand that this is quite an accomplishment.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Both hardwood and semi hard wood. I was cautiously optimistic all last year.

The semi hard wood made it through the winter. Sadly the hardwood hung in there all last year but doesn’t look promising this year at all. Here’s evidence of the semi hard wood cutting… the other thin SHW cutting next to it hasn’t pushed yet.



I thought these were both flukes. Both are one off cuttings made during my last year’s big azalea year round propagation experiment. I just tossed the former in the batch. The latter was put under the fountain in the semi shade with some maple cuttings.

It’s funny as I took a zoom class from Michael Hagedorn last winter. In this class we got to show him the collection and included was a sample of the azalea cuttings. Michael mentioned I might have a much harder time with the Hawthorns. Gotta send him this photo.

Too late to try the hardwood again this year, but I will try more of the semi hardwood again this year if I get time..

cheers
DSD sends