Liquid cut paste vs putty cut paste

pandacular

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Forgive me if there is a thread on this subject, but I could not find one. I'm curious about people's thoughts on the differences between the two main types of cut paste I've seen used; the liquidy one (like Kiyonal) that comes in a paint tube, and the putty like one that comes in the tin with the green or white lid.

I have a tin of the conifer (green lid) putty, as well as a tube of Kiyonal cut paste. Right now, I've been using the former on my junipers and the latter on my deciduous trees, but I'm curious how folks decide which one to use. Is it personal preference or do they perform differently?
 

IzzyG

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I’m mainly using the pliable putty for protection after a cut(not letting anything get in) while the liquid paste more so for healing(for example if I split a branch on accident). I’ve also used both concurrently; liquid initially, surrounded by putty to keep it protected.

Another use of the liquid paste is an adhesive for bark that fell off.
 

Tieball

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I use a liquid cut paste that is about the consistency of toothpaste. It goes on olive green in color. It dries to a dark brown or black which looks perfect on my trees. Some don’t use a paste at all. I choose to use it….and it works very well. I use the same cut paste on all sizes of cuts. Once it starts drying it remains rubber-like, won't fall off and repels well.
 

Clicio

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Forgive me if there is a thread on this subject, but I could not find one. I'm curious about people's thoughts on the differences between the two main types of cut paste I've seen used; the liquidy one (like Kiyonal) that comes in a paint tube, and the putty like one that comes in the tin with the green or white lid.

I have a tin of the conifer (green lid) putty, as well as a tube of Kiyonal cut paste. Right now, I've been using the former on my junipers and the latter on my deciduous trees, but I'm curious how folks decide which one to use. Is it personal preference or do they perform differently?

I use both types of sealant.
As @Cofga has said above, the soft one in tubes for small cuts and bruises, and the putty ones for heavy pruning and to promote healing of old scars, both in conifers (green lid) and deciduous (white lid).
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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Snails devour my putty, and the liquid stuff we get here is difficult to remove. So on large trunk chops I use candle wax.
Small cuts on softer trees get vaseline.
Small cuts on herbaceaous plants that are easily infected with botrytis, get vaseline with sea salt.
 

Eckhoffw

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I use both. I’d relate the paste to using antibiotic cream to minor cuts and scrapes.
The putty is more like dressing a larger wound with gauze and medical tape.
 

pandacular

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Thanks so much for clearing this up. Guess I need to order some of the deciduous putty then to supplement my liquid paste sometime before I do my big pruning I the winter/spring.
 

pandacular

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Have you noticed differences in the healing rate of the two different kinds of cut treatment?

Reading around this forum, this question seems to be contraversial, so for the sake of this conversation, I'm happy to just hear and anecdotal experiences.
 

Shibui

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I don't see much difference between either sort of wound sealant. I did a test a few years ago to try to lay this to bed but it seems to keep getting up again.
You can check out the discussion on this thread - Cutting paste keep on or remove
Photos of my tests starts at post #28
 

Bonsai Nut

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I use the paste for sealing the bottom of air-layers. It is waterproof and seems to work well in that context. It also adheres better than the putty... which can be good or bad depending on the use. It tends to be semi-permanent and quite difficult to remove, versus the paste pops right off.
 

RKatzin

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I would use the putty, if I could get it, especially on vertical or slanting wounds, as the paste has a tendency to run off. I use a chopstick to pull it back up until it sets.
 

rockm

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I use the toothpaste consistency sealant (kiyonal) for trunk chop wounds. It adheres more securely than the putty stuff (which also dries out relatively quickly). I use Top Jin for larger pruning wounds on azaleas--it tends to be a little runnier than Kiyonal. I use the putty stuff occasionally for larger wounds. All this stuff can be removed once callus tissue has formed. I tend to leave it on for a few years, as it promotes a moist environment that keeps the callus tissue rolling. Some trees don't really need it, but it can help a bit.
 

canoeguide

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Just to add: As far as I've heard and read and experienced myself, there's no difference between the brown and gray putty (green/white lid), other than color. I just use whatever color matches the bark better.
 

pandacular

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there's no difference between the brown and gray putty (green/white lid), other than color
thank you, I've also heard this. though I've heard at least one person mention that the conifer variety (green lid) has hormones added, but haven't seen that backed up in any meaningful way.
 

Deep Sea Diver

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Ok folks…. Just to set the record straight so the word of mouth is accurate .

Here are five cut paste/ putties I personally use. You can make decisions on your own. My take is these all are effective, yet your trees your choice.

There are a couple popular Cut putties designed for the callus to grow underneath. Green cap and white cap.

Green topped cut putty is use for conifers, azaleas and Chinese junipers contains a growth hormone.

White topped cut putty is for all other trees and doesn’t contain a growth hormone.

For those who haven’t seen the data, here’s the info straight from their website

IMG_1008.jpeg

Cut pastes

Top Jin is a latex based cut putty often use for azaleas and tropical species and contains a nematocide/fungicide.
I use this exclusively on azaleas - small cuts are sealed with this larger cuts are first sealed with Top Jin. when dried sealed with the green topped cut putty. Rick Garcia mentioned this procedure btw.

IMG_1636.jpeg

Kirikuchi-Naoru (Cut Repair Sealer), is a green liquid that dries hard. It can heal wounds quickly but is reputed to work so well it can cause a thicker callus to form. Michael Hagedorn has discussed this product.

IMG_1637.jpeg

Kiyonal Cut paste - very often used all purpose cut putty - haven’t heard if this product has any healing or preventive ingredients

IMG_1639.jpeg

I hope this helps dispel anymore urban myths - and corrects the bonsai coconut wireless.

btw: Bonsai Today sells most if not all of these.

cheers
DSD sends
.
 
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August44

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I have used this for several years with good luck. It is a thick, brown paste that one can put on with a cotton swab or artist brush and it hardens right up. Also works to stabilize broken branches if you do it right. Good stuff in my opinion. Can buy on Amazon.

1688912989981.png
 

August44

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I have used this for several years with good luck. It is a thick, brown paste that one can put on with a cotton swab or artist brush and it hardens right up. Also works to stabilize broken branches if you do it right. Good stuff in my opinion. Can buy on Amazon.

View attachment 497699
Here is the product info:

Product information​

Package Dimensions8.23 x 3.5 x 1.34 inches
Item Weight4.5 ounces
ManufacturerJoshua Roth
ASINB000X36W88
Customer Reviews4.8 4.8 out of 5 stars 11 ratings
4.8 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank#459,905 in Patio, Lawn & Garden (See Top 100 in Patio, Lawn & Garden)
#10,288 in Gardening Hand Tools
Is Discontinued By ManufacturerNo

 

Walter Pall

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You need noithing at all. I never use any such stuff. The trees are very well able to help themselves. I have a large fortune invested in my trees and still do nothing. Now you can guess whterh I am insane or I know something that the bonsai coimmunity is not aware of yet.
 

pandacular

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Thanks for your insight, Walter. I really like your methods, and the trees speak for themselves. Your approach seems to emphasize a lot of natural, healthy growth which would certainly help with callous formation. My biggest concern is mostly that I can't match that growth, but I suppose that's all the more reason to focus on the horticulture first.
 
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