potatofarmer
Mame
i was reading it's totally safe for roots too. i mix it with a little castile soap to emulsify.
Lime Sulfur safe for maples in leaf or no?
- Thread starter potatofarmer
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leatherback
The Treedeemer
potatofarmer
Mame
Read This If You Grow Japanese Maple
This post is about a common bacterial disease called Pseudomonas syringae, which frequently affects Japanese maples yet is relatively easy to control. It is often misidentified as Verticillium wilt…
crataegus.com
this disagrees with you.
I can't seem to find zerotol. if anyone has a amazon link for it or something similar that would be much appreciated.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
I do not care what that article sais. In practice I have never seen anyone show a maple that really recovered from an infection, no matter which treatment.
If young small plants like what you are showing are infected by pseudomonas, the best course of action is to start over, throw away all organics in your restwaste bin (do not add to compostting cycles) and desinfect containers if you want to reuse them. Then straight away work with good substrate and watering practices.
Good substrate and proper water care ARE key.
If young small plants like what you are showing are infected by pseudomonas, the best course of action is to start over, throw away all organics in your restwaste bin (do not add to compostting cycles) and desinfect containers if you want to reuse them. Then straight away work with good substrate and watering practices.
Good substrate and proper water care ARE key.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Just because you can find one internet article does not mean it is correct. Surely most people know the web is not peer reviewed and anyone can post any shit whether it's correct or not.
There are thousands of posts now where well meaning growers have misconstrued cause and effect. Just because something happened on a Monday does not mean it will happen every Monday.
You have linked wiring and death from fungal infection but thousands of others have not had the same. I can't make you believe but maybe there's another cause.
Treating an internal infection requires a systemic. Neem is a topical treatment ie it treats only what it touches, as does copper fungicides.
My experience is that pots on the ground and overwatered through winter and early spring are at most risk. Take away the cause and the problem is averted. Look at how you manage your trees for the cause and for the cure.
There is huge variation of disease susceptibility between JM cultivars.
In my experience, If a clone gets infected once, it will be again, later. Unless your maple is waterlogged or pH <5 or >8, its likely a problem of its genetic makeup not fitting your general area.
In my experience, If a clone gets infected once, it will be again, later. Unless your maple is waterlogged or pH <5 or >8, its likely a problem of its genetic makeup not fitting your general area.
I've been using 2% percent dilluted lime sulfur for about 3 years on leafed out trees and only had problems twice when it burned some fresh leaves on a linden. Used it many times on many trees and on many species of trees and vegetables. I found it very effective especially for powdery mildew on oak and euonymus, and on landscape apple trees. It helped me stop a very nasty infection on the linden. I don't hesitate to use it if I find an infection. I used it even on leafed out maple seedlings, without issues.
potatofarmer
Mame
ive done wiring extensively at both times now so i will go with my own experience. wiring in the summer for maples is much much better.
Japanese Maples: Black Bark - Fungal Infection or Dieback
Hello everybody, over the past few years I observed sometimes black coloring of bark of Japanese maples. I ask myself if that’s always a fungal infection, or if dieback, caused by wrong cuts etc also takes on this black color? What are your experiences? Here are some pictures… Max
forum.bonsaimirai.com
this guy is having the same experience.
potatofarmer
Mame
but i think you're right about the water in the winter. i already keep mine under cover for the most part but i'm going to keep them even drier from now on.
potatofarmer
Mame
If anyone is wondering or having a similar problem it seems to have worked. i scrubbed the black spots with a strong lime sulphur solution (maybe 1 to 10) and a toothbrush. and went around and put some on all wire scars etc and the black spots seems to be fading away now. i did not get any on the leaves. the tree is flourishing. before and after:
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potatofarmer
Mame
yes. i am also watering less. i think i can control things better in the wet winter months from now on.
time will tell.
potatofarmer
Mame
yes i know about the whitening, but the spots do seem to have dried out also. like putting alcohol on a cut or something. i'm still looking for a systemic. im going to home depot today.
zerotol ive only see huge jugs for 250 or more dollars. same with phyton 35. if anyone has a name of an actual product i could find at a reasonable price id love to hear it.
tree and shrub protect and feed but that says its for insects. would that help at all?
and since people dont like my soil mix of pumice miracle grow and garden soil i will take soil recommendations too.
Disregarding price, 60% Akadama, 20% Kanuma and 20% Pumice would be a great mix, Id wager.
But thats total overkill for your young trees, and if theyre inherently weak to disease, wouldnt save them anyway.
I guess people dont take too well to your putting garden soil in a pot. Plants generally grow faster in better aerated soil, as long as you provide adequate water and nutrients.
I think for JMs its probably good to have either Akadama or some organic component in the mix, or both. I use pine bark because its cheap. Its said composted pine bark is better though, if you can get that. Or peat chunks. Many things would work, though.
Gabler
Masterpiece
It doesn't matter whether people like your mix. What matters is that your trees clearly don't.
potatofarmer
Mame
Only started having problems this year. And only with the ones in pots. Anyways. Pretty useless comment.
Gabler
Masterpiece
A tree can appear fine for a few years in suboptimal conditions and then, because it is weakened by those suboptimal conditions, suddenly succumb to a pest or disease. It might appear random, but there is often a clear explanation.
I'm not sure why you took offense to my prior comment. None was intended. My point was that you should pay attention to your trees. They will tell you if they don't like your soil. The trick is in learning to speak their language. Everyone here has an opinion about the best soil, and you need to find one that works for your trees in your climate.
potatofarmer
Mame
no problem. i didn't really take offense. i wasn't sure what the point of the comment was. any budget suggestions on how to improve the soil? i'm in vancouver.
i'm not going to bother with the akadama etc because i will end up spending more on soil than the trees are worth.
Gabler
Masterpiece
For trees I'm growing out, I use a mix of coarse perlite and vermiculite, topped with some diatomaceous earth to weigh it down. For better trees, I upgrade to a blend of pumice and diatomaceous earth, topped with a bit of sphagnum moss to keep the shallow pot from drying out. If I ever buy an expensive tree, I'll probably shell out the money for good akadama.
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