Juniperus - Questions to the experts

my nellie

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I have spent two hours this evening plucking off the pollen cones and it looks like I have not removed any of them.
Is there really any significant energy expenditure which I'm gonna save if I remove or not?
If it doesn't matter so much it will save me a lot of trouble leaving the cones on the tree.
 

wireme

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I have spent two hours this evening plucking off the pollen cones and it looks like I have not removed any of them.
Is there really any significant energy expenditure which I'm gonna save if I remove or not?
If it doesn't matter so much it will save me a lot of trouble leaving the cones on the tree.

I have read the claim that the energy require to open flowers is already stored in the buds and you save nothing by removing them. The energy require to produce fruit is another story. It came from a bonsai practitioner I respect who is also a horticulturist. Accurate or not I don't know but in the case of male junipers the pollen cones don't last all that long and when done and dried up either just fall off or can be easily flicked off. Trying to remove them when they are young fresh and holding tight may just cause more damage/stress to the plant than gain I believe. Save you some work by not worrying about it anyways.
 
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my nellie

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Thank you very much for your input, wireme.
... ...Trying to remove them when they are young fresh and holding tight may just cause more damage/stress to the plant than gain I believe... ...
This is exactly my thoughts.
I was suspecting that most probably I was hurting the branchlets rather than saving any energy... but now you have confirmed.
Thanks again!
 

Lazylightningny

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Why can’t I have a little fun?

Ok...

Are you planning to transition it out of nurseryman’s soil and into inorganic bonsai soil? (Recommended)

Then you need to do a reduction and HBR repot.

Start off by pulling it out of the plastic pot, digging down to find the surface roots (which it appears you have done) figure out where the root flair is, and determine what you want for your nebari. If there are little roots above your preferred nebari, just cut them off.

Saw the bottom half of the root ball off. Look to see if there are any really heavy down ward growing roots. If there are, you want to soften them. Now tease the circling roots off the sides. Once you have them spread out, cut them off.

Now decide which half of the rootball has the worst roots. That’s the side we’re going to bare root. Using your room hook and bent tip tweezers, gently loosen up the roots on one side of the rootball. Try to get all the way under th trunk! You may use a gentle stream of water to help. Just be sure when using the water, to only wash the soil off the “bare root” side. The other side keep whatever is there.

Once you have it HBRed, then go to the remaining side of the rootball and tease out one to two Cm of roots. So that the side of the rootball is fuzzy. The bottom, cut smooth flat. No fuzzies.

Prepare your pit and put a layer of drainage soil, them make a little mound of bonsai soil. Place the tree on the mound, and apply pressure while you wiggle the tree down into the mound. Check to make sure you have it down far enough, and where you want it in the pot. It should be on the center line front to back, and a little off center side to side.

Now firmly tie the tree into the pot. So that it does not wiggle. In fact, you should be able to lift the tree by the trunk, and the pot lifts up, too! Then backfill with bonsai soil. Chopstick the soil in to fill the bare area, and around the outside of the remaining rootball. Once you think you have it all in good, tap each side of the pot with the meat part of your fist. The soil will settle more! Add more soil. The idea is you want the soil to be level in the pot, no mounding, and leave 1/2 cm of the interior rim showing. That will keep the soil from washing away when watered. Water well, until the water runs clear.

Then put it back into FULL SUN! Yes, I know that’s a surprise! But full sun will stimulate the roots to grow because it warms the soil. Over the next couple weeks, keep it watered, maybe a couple times a day. You don’t have to mist it, but it wouldn’t hurt to wet the foliage when you water. After about 3 weeks, resume fertilizing.

Easy peazy!

Adair, two questions:

1. Are you reducing the top at all?

2. What time of year are we doing this?
 
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Then you need to do a reduction and HBR repot.
"A lot"

Easy peazy!


I have been looking for a description of the half bare root method I see reference on here for sometime. Thank you Adair that was very helpful.

This method seems like it would lead to a lot of potting soil mixed in with the bonsai soil. Do most folks sift that out and re-use?
I am assuming that next repot you refer (2nd half changing) to would want to use fresh soil for the portions not directly clinging to the roots and right?
 

Adair M

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Adair, two questions:

1. Are you reducing the top at all?

2. What time of year are we doing this?
I would not touch the foliage until it has at least one year in good soil. Junipers carry their strength in the foliage.

I see a couple runners, but the color is off. It might have mites. It just looks weak to me. The best way to get it strong is to repot into good soil. And let it grow.
 

Adair M

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I have been looking for a description of the half bare root method I see reference on here for sometime. Thank you Adair that was very helpful.

This method seems like it would lead to a lot of potting soil mixed in with the bonsai soil. Do most folks sift that out and re-use?
I am assuming that next repot you refer (2nd half changing) to would want to use fresh soil for the portions not directly clinging to the roots and right?
Potting soil? Throw it in your garden and grow tomatoes in it.

I never reuse bonsai soil. Spreads disease.
 

my nellie

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... ...I see a couple runners, but the color is off. It might have mites. It just looks weak to me. The best way to get it strong is to repot into good soil. And let it grow.
Yes, you are right regarding the color but it's the light that deceives you.
And also the abundance of the pollen buds results in an alteration of the foliage green colour depicted on the photo.
Not a single sign of mite infestation!
View attachment 164091
 

Adair M

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Yes, you are right regarding the color but it's the light that deceives you.
And also the abundance of the pollen buds results in an alteration of the foliage green colour depicted on the photo.
Not a single sign of mite infestation!
View attachment 164091
That’s good. It still needs a repot.
 

thomas22

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I'm not an expert but so disregard my advice if you want. If the tree is healthy when you got it? Does the soil drain? Does the soil dry out in an acceptable time frame? If all of the answers are yes then think about waiting a year for a repot. You could reduce tree now to the branches you will keep and allow light to the areas of the tree that need growing. You could do even do some wiring of some main branches. The tree should bounce back strong and you could repot next spring. If you repot now then you cant wire, or reduce and the tree will be weak from the repot all year. I know we have all seen experts wire trees in nursery containers.
 

my nellie

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That’s good. It still needs a repot.
Yes, of course!
This is what I am going to do this coming weekend.
The weather is just fine and it's also weaning moon and hopefully there will be some rainfall, exactly like @sorce advised :D
I will follow the detailed instructions of yours regarding H.B.R.
Thank you!
 
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my nellie

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I'm not an expert but so disregard my advice if you want. If the tree is healthy when you got it? Does the soil drain? Does the soil dry out in an acceptable time frame? If all of the answers are yes then think about waiting a year for a repot. You could reduce tree now to the branches you will keep and allow light to the areas of the tree that need growing. You could do even do some wiring of some main branches. The tree should bounce back strong and you could repot next spring. If you repot now then you cant wire, or reduce and the tree will be weak from the repot all year. I know we have all seen experts wire trees in nursery containers.
Thank you Thomas for your time and interest to respond!
In general, I do not disregard anything before reading and understanding :)

Info and replies to your questions have been posted above... if you spend some time... :)

Of course I could go the other way round and make some first styling/wiring of the tree and leave the repotting for a later.
I opt to make the repotting first though, because the tree looks so very much rootbound!
Watering took quite some time because the water was not going down, being absorbed very very slowly.
I dare say I am almost confident that the tree will respond like it was waiting to be repotted.
 

Lazylightningny

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Yes, of course!
This is what I am going to do this coming weekend.
The weather is just fine and it's also weaning moon and hopefully there will be some rainfall, exactly like @sorce advised :D
I will follow the detailed instructions of yours regarding H.B.R.
Thank you!
Wouldn't it be better to wait until spring to repot?
 

drew33998

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Lol!!!

Frary likes to cause trouble!

Hey, have you and Vance done anything with those Procumbens?

And, by the way, we’ve figured out that it’s when Procumbens get rootbound and unfertilized they’ll produce scale foliage!
I have one planted in the yard. Produces scale. Not sure if it's the rootbound part that causes this. I think its more about roots being dry.
 

Adair M

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I have one planted in the yard. Produces scale. Not sure if it's the rootbound part that causes this. I think its more about roots being dry.
That’s interesting!
 

Daluke

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You can take a lot of roots from junipers. I just dug up 50 this spring after having cut roots 6 months before. There was not much left. I healed them in a sand bed for 2 months until the weather warmed up. Then potted in 90% sand and put under shade. In other words, the correct season and after care is important. The more roots you take off the more you treat it like a cutting afterwards. Lots of misting and almost no watering after the first time for a few weeks. You give water freely only when you see good new growth.

When you say almost no watering after the first time, are you saying repot, water once THEN hold off? What’s your rationale for this? Encourage the tree to look for roots to take up moisture??
 
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