Japanese Maple cuttings [From start to finish: A Guide]

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South Africa
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I am new here and new to bonsai. I started bonsai by collecting a mulberry seedling in September 2020 during the lockdown. Ever since then ive had a fascination with bonsai and growing trees. Now i have a huge collection incliding trident maples (http://shorturl.at/ckH17) but japanese maple cuttings escape me.

I have tried 3 times with softwood cuttings in the summer time. It is summer here in south africa. You can see my method in the link above and i am unsure how to proceed. I have a new batch of cuttings that i have started using the method as follows:

1. Long vigorous shoot selection. I chose the extended shoots that are growing outside the shape of the canopy.

2. Making 5 -7 bud cuttings without the terminal tip. I only made the cuttings very short and left 2 healthy whole leaves at the top with a stub for die back at the top where the growing tip was. The cuttings are all this years growth no thicker than a standard pencil.

3. I placed the cuttings in a well draining moist medium for rooting. The cuttings where planted so that only 2 buds (including the pair with the leaves) were above ground and 3 or more buds were under the ground. I took this step in hopes of preserving moisture in my cuttings as i would not be coving them with a humidity dome/chamber or covering them with a plastic. Most of the cuttings are under the ground.

4. I did not use a humidity chamber. I fear too much humidity is why we all fail at rooting these cuttings. I have rooted evergreen trees using high humidity but my deciduous cuttings all seem to have their leaves turn brown and die even in the high humidity so i am opting to place the cuttings in the shade uncovered.

Tl;dr: i an trying to root japanese maple cuttings in summer and will post an update as there is no resource availlable on how to easily propagate this tree from softwood cuttings. I will post pictures if this gains interest and document the cuttings failure and success to put this matter to bed.
 
Hi,
@clem can help out here. As he has a link to a French propagator who uses either perlite or vermiculite. You can read the article how he uses soft wood gone to lignified stage but still flexible and very high humidity.
And I don’t seem to have any skills or luck down here. I will try next Spring.
Charles
 
This is what I use for all my cuttings, and which works well.

 
I am new here and new to bonsai. I started bonsai by collecting a mulberry seedling in September 2020 during the lockdown. Ever since then ive had a fascination with bonsai and growing trees. Now i have a huge collection incliding trident maples (http://shorturl.at/ckH17) but japanese maple cuttings escape me.

I have tried 3 times with softwood cuttings in the summer time. It is summer here in south africa. You can see my method in the link above and i am unsure how to proceed. I have a new batch of cuttings that i have started using the method as follows:

1. Long vigorous shoot selection. I chose the extended shoots that are growing outside the shape of the canopy.

2. Making 5 -7 bud cuttings without the terminal tip. I only made the cuttings very short and left 2 healthy whole leaves at the top with a stub for die back at the top where the growing tip was. The cuttings are all this years growth no thicker than a standard pencil.

3. I placed the cuttings in a well draining moist medium for rooting. The cuttings where planted so that only 2 buds (including the pair with the leaves) were above ground and 3 or more buds were under the ground. I took this step in hopes of preserving moisture in my cuttings as i would not be coving them with a humidity dome/chamber or covering them with a plastic. Most of the cuttings are under the ground.

4. I did not use a humidity chamber. I fear too much humidity is why we all fail at rooting these cuttings. I have rooted evergreen trees using high humidity but my deciduous cuttings all seem to have their leaves turn brown and die even in the high humidity so i am opting to place the cuttings in the shade uncovered.

Tl;dr: i an trying to root japanese maple cuttings in summer and will post an update as there is no resource availlable on how to easily propagate this tree from softwood cuttings. I will post pictures if this gains interest and document the cuttings failure and success to put this matter to bed.
Maples have very thin leaf margins and dessicate easily. We see this manifest in hot temperatures and windy conditions. Many in hot climates struggle to keep the leaves in tact and healthy til the end of the season, resulting in less than optimal Autumn colours, discoloured, brown leaf edges and crinkly foliage.

Without a humidity tent and in such hot African weather (even in shade) I can't see how you could possibly keep a JM cutting viable for long enough for it to root prior to dessication.

Opening the humidity tent or dome periodically for short periods allows some air flow around the cuttings and also gives you the opportunity to spray with Hydrogen Peroxide to combat damping of near the base of the cuttingf, a major reason why many turn black and fail.

Here's a tray of Arakawa cuttings rooted in a Akadama, Lava and pumice fines mix with humidity dome, no bottom heat. About a dozen I rooted a few years ago and are still going strong.

 
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I have tried maple cuttings time and time again. With misting, without misting, hardwood, softwood, summer, winter spring and autumn. Many happily sprout new leaves then die. Some actually grow roots but then slowly die after potting on. I don't think I have ever had a single JM or trident cutting survive long term.
I know there are some who can do it but, for me. maples are much easier from seed even if I can't grow named varieties that way.
Layers for asexual propagation if I want to keep genetics otherwise seed all the way for me.
 
Hi,
@clem can help out here. As he has a link to a French propagator who uses either perlite or vermiculite. You can read the article how he uses soft wood gone to lignified stage but still flexible and very high humidity.
And I don’t seem to have any skills or luck down here. I will try next Spring.
Charles
I have tried every internet resource and the high himidity is the reason why i am seeing a lack off success. I have seen a man root these without the high humidity in spring and summer. I have also seen a woman root them in summer without extra humidity. I will update this thread as a method emerges because there isnt a reliable resource for these softwood cuttings that is easy to follow like rooting ficus cuttings or jade cuttings.
 
I have tried maple cuttings time and time again. With misting, without misting, hardwood, softwood, summer, winter spring and autumn. Many happily sprout new leaves then die. Some actually grow roots but then slowly die after potting on. I don't think I have ever had a single JM or trident cutting survive long term.
I know there are some who can do it but, for me. maples are much easier from seed even if I can't grow named varieties that way.
Layers for asexual propagation if I want to keep genetics otherwise seed all the way for me.
This is why i made this thread. There has to be a way to make the cuttings grow and thrive. It is possible. I believe so.
 
Interestedly following

Hi,
@clem can help out here. As he has a link to a French propagator who uses either perlite or vermiculite. You can read the article how he uses soft wood gone to lignified stage but still flexible and very high humidity.
And I don’t seem to have any skills or luck down here. I will try next Spring.
Charles
Take winter hardwood cuttings i have heard rumours of great success from semi hardwood winter cuttings. Pencil thin at about 6inch in length or 6 nodes maximum
 
Maples have very thin leaf margins and dessicate easily. We see this manifest in hot temperatures and windy conditions. Many in hot climates struggle to keep the leaves in tact and healthy til the end of the season, resulting in less than optimal Autumn colours, discoloured, brown leaf edges and crinkly foliage.

Without a humidity tent and in such hot African weather (even in shade) I can't see how you could possibly keep a JM cutting viable for long enough for it to root prior to dessication.

Opening the humidity tent or dome periodically for short periods allows some air flow around the cuttings and also gives you the opportunity to spray with Hydrogen Peroxide to combat damping of near the base of the cuttingf, a major reason why many turn black and fail.

Here's a tray of Arakawa cuttings rooted in a Akadama, Lava and pumice fines mix with humidity dome, no bottom heat. About a dozen I rooted a few years ago and are still going strong.

I will post pictures soon to show my set up. I have tried a half covered humidity dome as well with no success.
 
have heard rumours of great success from semi hardwood winter cuttings

but japanese maple cuttings escape me

i an trying to root japanese maple cuttings in summer and will post an update as there is no resource availlable on how to easily propagate this tree from softwood cuttings [emphasis added]

Rumours are not necessary. Japanese Maple propagation is actually EXTREMELY well documented, discussed, and many different types of resources are widely available online and in print. I have attached the resource that never leaves my desk.

Evrything you need to know is in that book. There are no other tricks to it.

There are many variables to control. They do not all need to be perfect, but when you deviate, success rates drop.
 

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Rumours are not necessary. Japanese Maple propagation is actually EXTREMELY well documented, discussed, and many different types of resources are widely available online and in print. I have attached the resource that never leaves my desk.

Evrything you need to know is in that book. There are no other tricks to it.

There are many variables to control. They do not all need to be perfect, but when you deviate, success rates drop.
I do not think i have seen this information. Again i will re-emphasise. ROOTING SOFTWOOD JM CUTTINGS IN SUMMER/SPRING IS NOT A PROCESS THAT IS AS STRAIGHYFORWARD AS IY HAS BEEN MADE TO SEEM. THOSE INTERNET METHODS HAVE NOT WORKED FOR ME. 3 TIMES. I HAVE 3 VIDEOS OF EVIDENCE. SEE LINK IN THE ORIGINAL ARTICLE PLEASE. WE ARE ALL INTELLIGENT BEINGS HERE.
 
Here is my set up 20210327_121656.jpg20210327_121634.jpg20210327_121644.jpg20210327_121737.jpgfor the cuttings. They have been sittings in these pots in shade and in part shade. The 3 grouped together are uncovered in my tool shed awag from direct sun.
 
ROOTING SOFTWOOD JM CUTTINGS IN SUMMER/SPRING IS NOT A PROCESS THAT IS AS STRAIGHYFORWARD AS IY HAS BEEN MADE TO SEEM
What?

i did 5000 last year
I’m doing the same this year

There is nothing more straightforward.

What you should be saying is that the process is not straightforward to you, and that’s perfectly normal. But it’s weird for somebody who has had no succes with this to say that they are going to produce a resource due to a lack of them... when referring to one of the most well documented and studied ornamental plants in human history

it sounds like you haven’t bothered to google this at all
 
What?

i did 5000 last year
I’m doing the same this year

There is nothing more straightforward.

What you should be saying is that the process is not straightforward to you, and that’s perfectly normal. But it’s weird for somebody who has had no succes with this to say that they are going to produce a resource due to a lack of them... when referring to one of the most well documented and studied ornamental plants in human history

it sounds like you haven’t bothered to google this at all
I am new here and new to bonsai. I started bonsai by collecting a mulberry seedling in September 2020 during the lockdown. Ever since then ive had a fascination with bonsai and growing trees. Now i have a huge collection incliding trident maples (http://shorturl.at/ckH17) but japanese maple cuttings escape me.

I have tried 3 times with softwood cuttings in the summer time. It is summer here in south africa.
 
This is what I use for all my cuttings, and which works well.

These are the kind of articles online that you get. Copy paste information. No update or follow up because just like my cuttings i bet his dried up and died. This method does not work. It has not worked for me and many other people. Disregard this
 
These are the kind of articles online that you get. Copy paste information. No update or follow up because just like my cuttings i bet his dried up and died. This method does not work. It has not worked for me and many other people. Disregard this
It is my fricking website mate. Nothing cut and paste information. This is a description of the actual steps I took. It works.
 
This method does not work. It has not worked for me and many other people. Disregard this
The fact that YOU cannot do it, does NOT mean it does not work.
I would recommend people disregard your pots.

Nov 8th 2020:
 

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and as such, no need to shout.

I would look into what you have done differently from the resources you have used. There are MANY documented routes to success.
That is my point sir. Have you even bothered to look at my post seriously? Did you watch the 5 videos i did over this spring and sunmer trying all the methods as seen online? You have not. There is obviously massive dissinformation on JM cuttings and if you want to learn how to do it wait for the update. If you are here to tell me i am stupid then you are clearly the ignorant one. I can do everything else except find an article online? I can set up this account in this forum but i cant research the internet? I can set up and upload videos on YouTube for months and i dont know how to use the internet? you sound, like most people who are trying to hijack thus thread, like someone who doesnt want people to learn how to propagate this tree from cuttings. You are not offering any solutions you are just shitting on everything. You are a child.
 
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