Japanese Beech: "choose your own adventure"

[A Random User]

Since this is a choose your own adventure...
In my adventure, I am missing a lower branch with this tree.
I have read and understand that this trunk has a very clean line
Free of scars and since it has been said that this is a rarity, I would
Then agree, that it would be best to keep it this way. However, I feel
In my adventure that this sign of impefection, should be made up
Elsewhere...

This tree for me is quite nice, but that I feel it is too nice. It gives one the
Impression of a perfectly manicured park tree. All it is missing is the
Rod iron circular fence around it's base protecting the trunk, and some
Ducks passing by. This is not to try and insult your tree, or your work. I
Feel as though you have done a very nice job in actuality. This vision that
The tree portrays is just not the vision I would choose if I was to quite
Literally choose my own adventure...

As it currently stands, you have alot of space between the base of the trunk
And where the foliage begins. Seeing this much space between the two gives
The appearance of a very tall tree, which is nice... however one then has a foliage
Canopy, which contradicts the feeling of a very tall tree, it does not support the reasoning
of a tree reaching high up into the sky. All of the branches and foliage are to centrally located...
And in essences to round. It lacks the verticle depth that one would expect to see from a large tree.

I think the easiest way to try and remedy the problem, would be to try and bring one of the lower
Branches on the right hand side down a bit... this will accomplish a couple of things, it will give the tree more
Of an up and down shape, in essence giving the appearance of a much taller tree, it will kill some of the
Perfect symmetry you have going on where both of the bottom branches on either side of the trunk
Appear to end at the same points. It will take away some of the negative space between the pot and
Where the foliage begins, since in my adventure there is too much. This will also counterbalance the tree
Lean to the left and help to establish a better balanced feel to the tree. It will help to remedy the tree's
Positioning within the pot, which I thing will make up nicely for the offset of the tree. Lastly it will break up
The lollipop feel of the overall silhouette of the tree and perhaps give a little more negative space within
The bottom of the tree's foliage and give a much more complex design to the tree.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I would split the trunk at the base to give the impression of a much older tree.

Could you explain what you mean by splitting the trunk at the base? It could be interpreted several ways; creating a sabamiki, an uro, or splitting it top-down for a double trunk. None of them seem tempting, considering the lower trunk is nearly scarless, and any wound would take decades to roll on J. beech.

 

[Jester217300]

There are many different kinds of trees and many different kinds of bonsai. This is not an ugly tree. It's a very pretty, well manicured tree. Not every bonsai needs to tell the story of an extreme battle with mother nature. I like the base as is.

 

[Bunjeh]

Reason

I wouldn't. One nice feature of this tree is the clean lower trunk and base. Many times beech have scars and imperfections down low. This one is pretty clean. I'd keep it that way. Just my opinion.

Fair enough. I am originally from Southern Indiana and Beech are ubiquitous there. All the ones I remember from childhood had huge gnarled roots/bases that quickly tapered into an upright. See attached. This is what I was thinking.

 

[Don Blackmond]

Fair enough. I am originally from Southern Indiana and Beech are ubiquitous there. All the ones I remember from childhood had huge gnarled roots/bases that quickly tapered into an upright. See attached. This is what I was thinking.

I was pretty sure I knew what you had in mind. We have a lot of old beech trees like that here. Lots of surface roots. Lower trunks are scarred from age and people. I like them. A lot. And what you are suggesting is an appealing look. But, that said, I don't think I'd do it on this tree. Personally, I think this one is appealing for the exact opposite reason. Its pretty clean. I think this is a tree that "is what it is" and should not be made into something that it isn't. Just my opinion though.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Here are my 5-year goals for this tree, from now until 2019:

1. Improve the surface roots; especially the circling root to the front left. This work was started in 2010 repotting, continued in 2013, and no, I will not be ground layering it. Bunjeh, the roots in your photo are very cool. It will take decades to get that look, but the work being done under the soil surface is aimed to start developing a good nebari.

2. Address the lower two branches. Stacy, if I distill your post to an actionable comment, it's to lengthen the lower right branch and get it lower than the first left branch. Agreed. They're somewhat bar-branched, and it's still a problem. At some point I may be able to remove the lower-left branch entirely.

3. Continue to close the chop wound in the back. It was done in 2006, and is only about 30% closed.

4. Improve the apex...spreading, and rounded.

5. Find an appropriate container.

 

[JudyB]

Fair enough. I am originally from Southern Indiana and Beech are ubiquitous there. All the ones I remember from childhood had huge gnarled roots/bases that quickly tapered into an upright. See attached. This is what I was thinking.

The old beech like that one is a dream tree for me. Old beech are my very favorite tree, it's such a pity that so many are carved up for passing fancy. Thanks for the photo.

 

[MACH5]

Yes I agree that the picture provided by Bunjeh is something most, if not all, strive for when working with deciduous species. There is only one thing that can create such an appearance. Time. No amount of techniques, even from the greatest of masters, can reproduce convincingly what is shown in the photo. Only thing Brian can do with his beech is set it up correctly for proper development so that many, many years from now it will have that appearance. Deciduous work is generally painstakingly slow.

Incidentally, I have mentioned how much I like this tree. My comment is more about what this tree can/will be rather than what is now. Knowing Brian, I have no doubt he'll make this tree proud.

 

[A Random User]

2. Address the lower two branches. Stacy, if I distill your post to an actionable comment, it's to lengthen the lower right branch and get it lower than the first left branch. Agreed. They're somewhat bar-branched, and it's still a problem. At some point I may be able to remove the lower-left branch entirely.

One did not have to distill my post to far seeing that the second
line addressed the problem.

 

[Bunjeh]

More Irony

The old beech like that one is a dream tree for me. Old beech are my very favorite tree, it's such a pity that so many are carved up for passing fancy. Thanks for the photo.

Oddly enough, I remember exactly what you are saying. The bark on beach trees are a smooth canvas and blank slate for young lovers. I was actually going to suggest that, for authenticity, the owner should carve a tiny set of initials inside a heart about two inches up. Obviously, I am new to this art.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Kinda cool typical beech winter look...

 

[MACH5]

Brian does the wire on beech takes longer to bite in? How does it compare to Japanese maples?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Brian does the wire on beech takes longer to bite in? How does it compare to Japanese maples?

Pretty close to JM in length of time required to bite in, but at a more steady pace so you're not likely to be surprised one morning to find one halfway embedded. Beech is enjoyable to wire, very compliant.

 

[JudyB]

I do find with beech, that the wire marks are pretty close to permanent, while JM's tend to grow out of them after some time, unless it's super deep.

 

[MACH5]

I do find with beech, that the wire marks are pretty close to permanent, while JM's tend to grow out of them after some time, unless it's super deep.

Yes that's why I asked because I know once the wire bites in it will be very difficult if not impossible for the scars to ever disappear. In fact after I wire my forest I plan on tying strings to whatever has been wired so that I can more easily locate them all when is in full leaf.


BTW Brian your last pic with the brown leaves is actually one of my favorite stages of beech. Just love the combination of the grey-white bark and the rich brown of the leaves.

 

[Paradox]

We need more threads like this. This was very educational and awesome reading.
Thank you Brian for sharing and updating it over these years.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Wonderful progression. Beautiful tree. I like what you have done.

My only critique, taper. You seem to have lost the taper the tree had in 2006. If it were mine I would let a couple low branches on the back side escape. Let them go long. Remove entirely once the taper has returned. Also I would let the tree gain another half foot or so at the apex, keep it thin, light and airy branching. Right now in photos the trunk looks a cylinder, it would be greatly improved with some taper, adding height might be the only option for getting taper at the apex.

But over all a very nice tree, my thoughts are just what I would do to improve the tree as it is.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

My only critique, taper. You seem to have lost the taper the tree had in 2006. If it were mine I would let a couple low branches on the back side escape. Let them go long. Remove entirely once the taper has returned. Also I would let the tree gain another half foot or so at the apex, keep it thin, light and airy branching. Right now in photos the trunk looks a cylinder, it would be greatly improved with some taper, adding height might be the only option for getting taper at the apex.

Thanks, and I agree that the taper isn't great. Whatever "taper" it had in '06 was really just another stovepipe section that happened to be slightly smaller than the one beneath it, so I did start over and have been growing a better tapering section in its place.

As to the lower section, I probably could grow out a sacrifice branch from one already on the back, but I'm not sure it would do the trick; it grows about 10 nodes each spring and quits, and has yet to pop a new bud from the trunk since I chopped it in '06! Instead, I decided to focus on fattening the base by planing the underside to get it to swell at the soil line...so far, that seems to be the most effective way to help improve the taper.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Removed old leaves, pruned, and wired to spread out the branches. I think it's been 3 years since it was pruned back this assertively and wired. I think I need to pinch the apex a little earlier in the spring. It's surprisingly sparce.

 

[Paulpash]

Is this one still with you Brian?