Is Bonsai Mirai Live Worth $300/year?

What a funny guy.
Knowing full well I dont because I lost almost all trees 3 years ago.
Quite a guy you are there Chris.
Interesting that you don't seem to care for it when someone throws crap back in your face, despite your constantly throwing it on everyone else around here. Very interesting.

And does every bonsai pro use akadama?
Hmmm.
I dont believe Walter Pall does if I'm not mistaken.
I'll check to be sure.
And if what you're saying is true maybe Walter's trees could be even better.
Tell him.
Maybe they could be better. I've never seen Walter's trees in person so I won't pass judgement.
 
It’s legal here in California, in fact encouraged. I think they call um, tree huggers?
Do you think it is the friction from all of that tree hugging out there that has set the woods on fire?
 
I checked.
Walter rates turface as a usable substrate even styrofoam pieces as usable bonsai substrate.
Akadama not so much. Calls it questionable at best.
The real end game in all of this is the evidence of the eyes. If what you do is laudable then how you got there is of little importance to only those who would like to know as to emulate.
 
Do you think it is the friction from all of that tree hugging out there that has set the woods on fire?
Likely not. But, it is the efforts of the tree huggers to not allow prescribed burns that used to clear the forest of litter so that PGE wires couldn't start something like this.
 
Anthony, there just isn’t going to be much scientific, peer reviewed, double blind studies on the effects of bonsai wire, nor on the twigginess induced by small inorganic substrate in bonsai trees!

Sorry, you’ll just have to settle for anicdotal evidence as practiced by the most accomplished bonsai practioners in the world.

Sorry if that doesn’t meet your scientific qualifications.

Bear in mind a lot of the scientific, peer reviewed studies that many point to that supposed to refute the bonsai myths are produced by lumber companies whose goal is purely the production of wood fiber, not aesthetics.
I checked.
Walter rates turface as a usable substrate even styrofoam pieces as usable bonsai substrate.
Akadama not so much. Calls it questionable at best.
Mike, Walter isn’t mainstream bonsai. He’s trying to rebel against the Japanese ways.

You don’t “have to have” your trees in akadama. Used wisely, it’s a great help. Used ignorantly, it might work, or it might not. It’s a tool.

If you don’t want to use akadama, don’t. Pumice and scoria (lava) work great. Heck, just pumice works great. Akadama helps to make a “solid” rootball. Just straight pumice root balls tend to be very loose, and they fall apart when you repot them.
 
Michael, and Sifu,

have you guys done any research into -

[1] Wires causing damage to the - tubes - of the trunk or
branches ?

]2] When you stop wiring and the plant recovers, the
branchlets become more abundant ?

[3] Fine soil mixes [ 3 mm size ] drains wells, yet holds even
more water, for the roots?
In shallow pots.

The reason I suggest this,

[1] We are presently having to thin the trees to keep the
health up or we get bushes.

[2] When we shifted from 5 mm inorganic to 3 mm inorganic
and dropped the pot depth from 8 mm to 2.5 mm [ 3 to 1 inch ]
what was observed was greater density of leaf or branchlet [
sadly no high grade zelkova cultivars here to make it familiar'to all ]

The 1 trunk to 6 / 5 height also seems to be more than a decorative
feature, for it allows for maximum branchlet growth at that height.

The key thing is the fine soil mix and shallow pot allows for
all we got with a coarser mix in a deeper pot.
Good Day
Anthony

* cultivars also make a BIG difference.
You need to fine tune your mixes according to your local weather, the depth of the pot, the watering frequency and the type of plant. No amount of theory will beat trial and observation. For example, deep pots will drain more water relative to shallow pots of the same volume but if you have lots of heat and wind, the shallow pots might dry out faster because they have a greater surface area exposed to the atmosphere. So you may end up needing a finer mix for the shallow pots anyway. Or you can use a fine mulch during the dry season and remove it during the wet.
 
If you havr the money to blow sure do it. Id rather spend the money on material and watch it grow, read the web, trim, wire, apply techniques ive read about in and out of season, and monitor results. Mirai is not your back yard, your material, collection, soil mix, recovery time, feeding regimine, expieriments or hardiness zone... Real shit is real and different where you live. "Pros" are always selling and making their skill a must have... Think about how many people wear jordands cause mike did... Spend money on trees, watch for results of what you apply, amd make notes. Sure Mirai might save you a year or two, but what's that when decades make the difference.
Don't knock it until you try it. It's a total game changer. It would take years to learn what you can in a month.
 
Actually Sifu [ @Adair M ,

What we study is properties -
An example -

[1] Earth to 3 feet has 8 % organic material
You guys create an inorganic soil.

Our 9 parts inorganic to 1 part organic is similar
to the earth results.

[2 ] [ I believe MichaelS left this ]

Flowers - 3.2 N - 0.55 P - 5.3 K
Leaves - 3.2 N - 0.83 P - 5.2 K

Acts as leaf mold and filters down as compost.

'[ 3 } You guys use fermented oil seed meal -
around 6 to 8 N - 4 to 2 P - 2 to 1 K

plus Fish Emulsion.

So when you left the oil seed as cakes on the soil,
you probably came back up to the 0.8 % organic
as your oil seed cake composted and went down
into your soil
Fed the microbes.

Applied to our soil mix ---------
1 part organic to 9 parts inorganic

Our older trees are in their 30's and the soil is being
further re-adjusted to suit.
Thus far it works very well.

Because of our high ramification the branchlets are
finer and leaves smaller. You can observe this when
you look at a 10 year old and a 30 year old.

Next we can adjust the fertiliser to reflect the above information.

See how we use the science.

In school doing Biology, there was a mention of ------- ringing a
tree, where any pressure on the exterior of a tree alters the
internal flow.
So we know wires slow growth, as does bare rooting.
No need to study that.

Explains why Lingnan is so fast -------- trees evolved to handle
breaks -------- which is what a clip / cut would be.
Since it is at the end, no tubes that feed are affected.

Our root cores, carry durable inorganics, and - seem - to dicourage
fat roots, only feeders seen on the 30 year examination.
Clay is known to encourage fat non feeding roots.
Which is why we don't bother to dig mature trees. No feeder roots
closer than 2 feet.

So we don't need peer reviews, just properties.
Thanks for chatting.
Anthony
 
Don't knock it until you try it. It's a total game changer. It would take years to learn what you can in a month.

Well, um, in-person, hands-on repotting, wiring, pruning and refining with ANYONE who knows what they're doing can bump you ahead a decade in a single afternoon. That's where I think the money spent on advanced online instruction like Mirai can break down for those just getting into bonsai.

Today's Internet-centric world has short circuited a lot of things. Bonsai experience is one of them. Now beginners watch stuff like Mirai or other advanced stuff online. While that's good, it's also bad. It avoids arguably the best (and least expensive) option they have-simply joining a club and working with experienced members. I know I learned more in an hour about repotting when I sat down with a bonsai nursery owner and actually repotted old trees, than I had learned in five years of doing it on my own. Same with design and other stuff.

Just because it's expensive and the teacher is compelling, online learning isn't actual experience. There is no substitute for in-person, get-your-hands-dirty experience. It's mostly free at clubs, or from others in your area...
 
Anthony, there just isn’t going to be much scientific, peer reviewed, double blind studies on the effects of bonsai wire, nor on the twigginess induced by small inorganic substrate in bonsai trees!

Sorry, you’ll just have to settle for anicdotal evidence as practiced by the most accomplished bonsai practioners in the world.

Sorry if that doesn’t meet your scientific qualifications.

Bear in mind a lot of the scientific, peer reviewed studies that many point to that supposed to refute the bonsai myths are produced by lumber companies whose goal is purely the production of wood fiber, not aesthetics.

Mike, Walter isn’t mainstream bonsai. He’s trying to rebel against the Japanese ways.

You don’t “have to have” your trees in akadama. Used wisely, it’s a great help. Used ignorantly, it might work, or it might not. It’s a tool.

If you don’t want to use akadama, don’t. Pumice and scoria (lava) work great. Heck, just pumice works great. Akadama helps to make a “solid” rootball. Just straight pumice root balls tend to be very loose, and they fall apart when you repot them.
There are two people you just can't argue with, politicians and scientists. They have an answer for everything.
 
There are two people you just can't argue with, politicians and scientists. They have an answer for everything.
I’d say there are couple of more people on this forum also.
 
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I’d say there are couple of more people on this forum also.
I know right..... and there are some ive seen that can’t handle the truth or being questioned when they don’t have an answer.
 
Do you really think I’ll get an answer to my “how so”
By providing knowledge that very few if any out there are. I'm all for hands on person to person teaching -I've been doing it for 20 years. Ryan has a unique skill set that not many have- a degree and damn good education in horticulture and 7 years working under arguably one of the best bonsai artists in the world. Like I said I've been teaching and have owned a bonsai nursery over 20 years and I pretty much learn something new from every stream I watch. Just the one about redwoods taught me enough to keep them alive and healthy in the San Fernando Valley which alone is worth more than what I've spent in two years. I don't think I'd recommend it for brand new beginners but for anyone with the basics under his belt I think it is money well spent and would and do heartily recommend it. As to if its worth it- I think if you take in and USE the info he imparts its more than worth it. But thats just my opinion so take it how you will.
 
Just the one about redwoods taught me enough to keep them alive and healthy in the San Fernando Valley which alone is worth more than what I've spent in two years.
Please share what you have learned. I've lost one ($200) and I'm close to losing another ($325). However, it's not the money so much as why are they continually declining. (in another thread of course)
 
How extensive is the Bonsai Mirai video? The description of it states:
"Watch Troy walk us through the process of hardening deadwood with Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™ (CPES), a technique he brought to Mirai through his expertise in boat restoration. Through this application you can prevent and preserve rotting deadwood from further decay."
Is the video informative enough to count as a complete lesson in how to use CPES on bonsai?

I watched the whole thing. It‘s about 1 1/2 hours of step-by-step-step instruction of the entire process of wood preservation from beginning to end. Very important to me because i live in a climate in which deadwood can detiorate very rapidly. I’ve repeated in on several of my trees.

Scott
 
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