Interior foliage on shimpaku turning yellow

You're repeating yourself Adair...lol
Check out my post below or above the first time you said this.
Yeah, I saw that... Don't know why my iPhone did that.
 
Yes.

Let's work this out.... Pinch off the tip, that little piece of juniper "leaf" stops growing. The tip turns brown. The rest of the "Leaf" or needle, stays green for a while. For a while. Then what happens is other parts of the tree grows. Where there are growing tips, those tips produce the hormone auxin. Remember, auxin the the signal that tells the roots to grow because there's active tip growth.

Well, guess what? The pinched tips aren't growing. Therefore, no auxin. There's no hormone signal to tell the tree there's any reason to send sugars there, because there are other places on the tree that are signaling there's active growth, so the tree sends its energy to the actively growing areas, as signaled by the glow of auxin.

So, what happens to the pinched foliage? It doesn't get fed. It yellows, and dies.

I just took a look at my junipers. Not a single bit of yellow anywhere. I don't pinch.

I see you're in Decatur. Are you an Atlanta Bonsai Society Member?

And yes, Dav4 is correct, too. Excess soil moisture can also cause yellowing. Don't do anything now, but next early spring, you should do a "half bare root repot" to transition it to good bonsai soil. I teach classes at Plant City Bonsai. Call Steve to get on his email list.
Glad i read this :)
 
The end-goal in a juniper bonsai is having only growing foliage. So you remove the old yellow foliage first. A few months later you will see that there is some dull foliage hanging down and in the interior of the tree that is not growing. It does not have a growing tip. It will yellow next year and it is sitting there taking energy and occupying place. You can remove that before it turns yellow, it will never grow. This is the cleaning up proces. The pinching or not pinching issue is about what to do with the growing shoots that grow fast and healthy and look out of proportion. At a certain point the strong area will be so strong that the rest of the tree will become shaded or weakened. So you cut it back to a less strong but still growing shoot. By doing this, you end up with a juniper without dull foliage and with growing tips all over the tree. In junipers strength comes from the foliage so do not take to much at a given time. You need growing foliage to pull new growth from further behind, this is the biggest difference with most deciduous trees. Yes you have different conditions. Watering and sickness and feeding and climate to consider. That is my understanding of this subject, and no i'm not an expert so you better listen to others first...
 
I had to look that up.

Uh, I don't think so. BVF and I are in agreement on this issue.

Boon, on Facebook, recently posted several trees that had been improperly "pinched" a couple years ago. It will take them another two years to recover from it.
You know as well as I do,--- it is possible to find examples of anything done badly and post the results as a condemnation of the whole concept. I can find pictures of Junipers done with scissors that look equally bad, I can even find a couple of pictures of a Juniper that has been done correctly--- but has totally lost its character because of the technique. We have talked about this tree if you remember though I am not going to share anything more than that. You know I can post many pictures of my Shimpakus that have been pinched correctly (according to my way) that look fine after twenty or more years of what many would claim as abuse.
 
You know as well as I do,--- it is possible to find examples of anything done badly and post the results as a condemnation of the whole concept. I can find pictures of Junipers done with scissors that look equally bad, I can even find a couple of pictures of a Juniper that has been done correctly--- but has totally lost its character because of the technique. We have talked about this tree if you remember though I am not going to share anything more than that. You know I can post many pictures of my Shimpakus that have been pinched correctly (according to my way) that look fine after twenty or more years of what many would claim as abuse.
Vance, it's not the use of fingers!

"Pinch"... The word has confused many people. It doesn't matter what tool does the job, it's how it's used!

The wrong way is to remove a tip, and leave some stub.

The correct way to remove a tip is to remove the entire " needle" or tuft where it is attached to the twig it is growing from.

It doesn't matter if you use your fingers or scissors as long as the entire thing is removed.

It's possible to do it correctly, using your fingers, to remove the entire stem. It's also possible to do it wrong, using scissors, to cut so that a stem is left behind.

Again, it's not the tool! It's the technique!
 
The end-goal in a juniper bonsai is having only growing foliage. So you remove the old yellow foliage first. A few months later you will see that there is some dull foliage hanging down and in the interior of the tree that is not growing. It does not have a growing tip. It will yellow next year and it is sitting there taking energy and occupying place. You can remove that before it turns yellow, it will never grow. This is the cleaning up proces. The pinching or not pinching issue is about what to do with the growing shoots that grow fast and healthy and look out of proportion. At a certain point the strong area will be so strong that the rest of the tree will become shaded or weakened. So you cut it back to a less strong but still growing shoot. By doing this, you end up with a juniper without dull foliage and with growing tips all over the tree. In junipers strength comes from the foliage so do not take to much at a given time. You need growing foliage to pull new growth from further behind, this is the biggest difference with most deciduous trees. Yes you have different conditions. Watering and sickness and feeding and climate to consider. That is my understanding of this subject, and no i'm not an expert so you better listen to others first...
I agree. It also helps to go in to each pad in midsummer to thin out the pads so that sunlight can penetrate the pads from above. This helps to keep the interior growth healthy and alive, as well as keeps the lower branches healthy. Keeps the tree from getting leggy.


Eventually, branches will get too long, and will need to get cut back. Having interior growth allows you to have something to cut back to.
 
I don't mean the discussion about pinching. I know you agree. It was just funny to me.
"See this juniper....not pinched, no yellow"
*posts very nice trunked shimpaku*
"Yep I agree. I also have such a juniper, see?"
*also posts very nice trunked shimpaku*
The rest of us just sit here and drool

Epeen (Ep33n)-[e-peen]
internet slang for ego, pride, or attitude in the virtual world. long standing
net definition for the age old "bigger penis" arguement.
"SW III was nothing but a bunch of Lucas e-p33n." or "I just slaughtered 28
people in that game of Battlefield 2 and never died. Man my e-p33n feels huge."

Does kind of fit. I feel so violated--just violated I tell ya.
Haven't been flashed since Hartford. Who else but you?
To: OP;
But seriously both beautiful trees and both wonderful
examples of what to do. Do check out both of those links.
Each contains points that the other angle isn't as clear on.
 
It looks like the foliage on the lower right side (in the photo of the trimmed tree) is kind of a grayish green. This looks like spider mite damage.
 
The wrong way is to remove a tip, and leave some stub.

The correct way to remove a tip is to remove the entire " needle" or tuft where it is attached to the twig it is growing from.

It doesn't matter if you use your fingers or scissors as long as the entire thing is removed.

It's possible to do it correctly, using your fingers, to remove the entire stem. It's also possible to do it wrong, using scissors, to cut so that a stem is left behind.

Adair, what's the issue with leaving a stub? Just curious...
 
It turns brown. On the tip. Eventually yellows and turns brown

If it's inside the pad, or deep in the foliage where it won't really be seen, it's not a big deal. It's just sloppy.

The thing is, most people "pinch" on the margins of the pads. Right along the outer edge. There, they're visible. And, again, if it's only a few, no big deal.

But what happens, is people think they should do it all over!

On guy brought a tree, I think it was a San Jose juniper, to the Atlanta Bonsai Society spring show, where EVERY SINGLE TIP on the entire tree had been pinched! And there was a 3/4 inch "stub" left behind!

For all I know, that tree may be dead. Might not, but it's severely weakened.

Here's the deal:

If you never "pinch", you won't go wrong. When you get good enough that you understand all the processes, sure, you can pinch a bit here and there. But then again, why? Get into the habit of "not pinching", and you'll never have a problem. You can build perfect pads without "pinching".
 
Thanks - I was wondering if it was a cosmetic issue or the stub itself was problematic for the tree. Appreciate the answer!
 
I love these damn pinching threads. Popcorn is just about ready boys!
 
Crap! Oh well it was enjoyable going through . I appreciate the rehash. I think that's the only way I tend to commit things to memory.
 
Crap! Oh well it was enjoyable going through . I appreciate the rehash. I think that's the only way I tend to commit things to memory.
That's true for me, too!

Boon's Intensive classes go for three years. There's the fall class, the winter (repotting) class, and the summer class. You take each class three times. There's a fourth "winter" class: show preparation and exhibiting.

But the point is, even though Boon teaches the same material each time, you pick up on new stuff. Little things you may have missed the first (or second) time through. Also, each student gets one-on-one instruction, too. Advanced students work on more advanced trees, etc.

For my part, I really focused on the JBP stuff. Boon teaches other material, too, but while I was there and listened, since there was information overload going on, I really concentrated on learning the JBP stuff. Since I have ADHD, I find it much better to try to maintain a single focus.
 
And you focus in on things that are important to you at the time. That may change the next visit. Then there's the whole 5 minute attention span thing.
 
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