Yeah, I saw that... Don't know why my iPhone did that.You're repeating yourself Adair...lol
Check out my post below or above the first time you said this.
Yeah, I saw that... Don't know why my iPhone did that.You're repeating yourself Adair...lol
Check out my post below or above the first time you said this.
Glad i read thisYes.
Let's work this out.... Pinch off the tip, that little piece of juniper "leaf" stops growing. The tip turns brown. The rest of the "Leaf" or needle, stays green for a while. For a while. Then what happens is other parts of the tree grows. Where there are growing tips, those tips produce the hormone auxin. Remember, auxin the the signal that tells the roots to grow because there's active tip growth.
Well, guess what? The pinched tips aren't growing. Therefore, no auxin. There's no hormone signal to tell the tree there's any reason to send sugars there, because there are other places on the tree that are signaling there's active growth, so the tree sends its energy to the actively growing areas, as signaled by the glow of auxin.
So, what happens to the pinched foliage? It doesn't get fed. It yellows, and dies.
I just took a look at my junipers. Not a single bit of yellow anywhere. I don't pinch.
I see you're in Decatur. Are you an Atlanta Bonsai Society Member?
And yes, Dav4 is correct, too. Excess soil moisture can also cause yellowing. Don't do anything now, but next early spring, you should do a "half bare root repot" to transition it to good bonsai soil. I teach classes at Plant City Bonsai. Call Steve to get on his email list.
Yeah, I saw that... Don't know why my iPhone did that.
You know as well as I do,--- it is possible to find examples of anything done badly and post the results as a condemnation of the whole concept. I can find pictures of Junipers done with scissors that look equally bad, I can even find a couple of pictures of a Juniper that has been done correctly--- but has totally lost its character because of the technique. We have talked about this tree if you remember though I am not going to share anything more than that. You know I can post many pictures of my Shimpakus that have been pinched correctly (according to my way) that look fine after twenty or more years of what many would claim as abuse.I had to look that up.
Uh, I don't think so. BVF and I are in agreement on this issue.
Boon, on Facebook, recently posted several trees that had been improperly "pinched" a couple years ago. It will take them another two years to recover from it.
Vance, it's not the use of fingers!You know as well as I do,--- it is possible to find examples of anything done badly and post the results as a condemnation of the whole concept. I can find pictures of Junipers done with scissors that look equally bad, I can even find a couple of pictures of a Juniper that has been done correctly--- but has totally lost its character because of the technique. We have talked about this tree if you remember though I am not going to share anything more than that. You know I can post many pictures of my Shimpakus that have been pinched correctly (according to my way) that look fine after twenty or more years of what many would claim as abuse.
I agree. It also helps to go in to each pad in midsummer to thin out the pads so that sunlight can penetrate the pads from above. This helps to keep the interior growth healthy and alive, as well as keeps the lower branches healthy. Keeps the tree from getting leggy.The end-goal in a juniper bonsai is having only growing foliage. So you remove the old yellow foliage first. A few months later you will see that there is some dull foliage hanging down and in the interior of the tree that is not growing. It does not have a growing tip. It will yellow next year and it is sitting there taking energy and occupying place. You can remove that before it turns yellow, it will never grow. This is the cleaning up proces. The pinching or not pinching issue is about what to do with the growing shoots that grow fast and healthy and look out of proportion. At a certain point the strong area will be so strong that the rest of the tree will become shaded or weakened. So you cut it back to a less strong but still growing shoot. By doing this, you end up with a juniper without dull foliage and with growing tips all over the tree. In junipers strength comes from the foliage so do not take to much at a given time. You need growing foliage to pull new growth from further behind, this is the biggest difference with most deciduous trees. Yes you have different conditions. Watering and sickness and feeding and climate to consider. That is my understanding of this subject, and no i'm not an expert so you better listen to others first...
I don't mean the discussion about pinching. I know you agree. It was just funny to me.
"See this juniper....not pinched, no yellow"
*posts very nice trunked shimpaku*
"Yep I agree. I also have such a juniper, see?"
*also posts very nice trunked shimpaku*
The rest of us just sit here and drool
The wrong way is to remove a tip, and leave some stub.
The correct way to remove a tip is to remove the entire " needle" or tuft where it is attached to the twig it is growing from.
It doesn't matter if you use your fingers or scissors as long as the entire thing is removed.
It's possible to do it correctly, using your fingers, to remove the entire stem. It's also possible to do it wrong, using scissors, to cut so that a stem is left behind.
Drew, it seems you're a little late to the party.I love these damn pinching threads. Popcorn is just about ready boys!
That's true for me, too!Crap! Oh well it was enjoyable going through . I appreciate the rehash. I think that's the only way I tend to commit things to memory.