How far have you developed a tree before digging

[michaelj]

I once had an opportunity to prune some junipers in the early summer and come back for them in the fall just before the property got bulldozed, but that didn't afford me any opportunity to do any work to develop surface roots. Aside from that, there aren't any places I've found where I could really do any enhanced collecting preparation, so all of mine have been found and dug in a single day.

 

[rockm]

sounds like a good spot, your methods seem sound to me.

I was wondering why RockM was knocking me for basic, what I thought was widely accepted, collection techniques.. think its called the 3 year plan? I basically just do what ive read from published articles..and it seems to work for me and other people. its a nice oak RockM0 no doubt., but if i were to say I went with that all at once collection on the beast, I feel people would be Jabbin at that method saying "oh you should have prepped it for a few seasons.... how are you going to stuff a tap root in a bonsai pot anyway?"

I wasn't knocking you for anything. You asked if what you were doing was "widely accepted." I said it really wasn't among the more experienced collectors who work in the South up to Mid-Atlantic that I've talked to. I've long said that the techniques outlined in the books aren't worth much in the field. They're mostly written by people who haven't done much collecting. They tend to be extremely general and are based on what occurs in nurseries or landscapes, not in the wild. You apparently had your mind made up before you asked the question, so why ask?

Atrox' collection methods may work IN HIS AREA--which is the high desert in Arizona for conifers and desert trees. It may not work for you in an eastern hardwood forest, like Ohio or Michigan. I have lived both in Arizona and in the Eastern U.S. -- there are distinct, stark differences. Here in the east, it's possible to be much more aggressive in collecting DECIDUOUS trees. They are more vigorous because they have more resources. Desert plants tend to walk a very thin line because their resources are much more limited and their root systems more diffuse. It takes more time to deal with that.

Look-- you can do what you want. I answered your question. Take it or leave it. What you're doing is the long road to collecting trees in your area and it has a significant, proven downside. It can work, but it is costing you more a lot more time and effort that really isn't necessary.

And FWIW, considering collection advice from someone working in a completely different climate, with completely different species might not be the best approach. If you want advice that might be more applicable to your area, you might ask folks like Zach Smith, or someone local.

 

[Borg]

Spyd, the large one with the rough bark and hole on it is a Black Cherry, I believe.

 

[Samantha]

had a really nice horn beam get lost becasue the dang farmer came in and cleared out the drainage creek,

You didn't tell the "dang farmer" you was working his tree???

 

[Spdyracer]

Spyd, the large one with the rough bark and hole on it is a Black Cherry, I believe.

Thanks actually figured that out on another post in the newbie section.

 

[Zach Smith]

It never hurts to reiterate collecting basics, so here goes (for deciduous trees only):

1. When collecting material for bonsai, be prepared to pass up a hundred or more unsuitable trees to find one good one. This is not true in certain areas that are blessed with plenty of good specimens in a relatively small area, but it's best to figure on looking more than collecting.
2. Select for species, size, trunk movement, trunk taper, trunk character. I often see untapering stumps posted. Nothing inherently wrong with collecting untapering stumps, but each is likely a 10-15 year project and why do all of that when you can find a lot of 3- to 5-year projects and spend your time on the more fun stuff? To each his own, of course.
3. The cordless reciprocating saw is the greatest invention in the history of the world - well, for bonsai collectors that is. Take one of those, extra 12" blades and plenty of battery power.
4. Once you've identified the lucky future bonsai, chop the trunk with the saw to a point somewhere above your final intended trunk length. I know the typical advice is to leave the trunk alone until after cutting the roots, but I've never had any trouble breaking a taproot with only a couple feet of trunk to use for leverage (this is for larger trees such as bald cypress - which, by the way, tend to be too flexible up higher to make for good levering anyway). If you collect a tree with a 2" trunk you'll be chopping at around 16" or so on the first pass, and that's plenty good leverage for so small a specimen.
5. Cut the lateral roots, farther out than the final cut but not so far out that you end up with a 200-lb rootball. Usually 8" or so from the trunk works fine.
6. Plunge the 12" cutting blade under the tree's trunk and partly or completely sever the taproot. Cut it enough so that you can bend the tree over and snap the tap if needed. Be careful with this step, because it's possible to split the trunk up through the tap and ruin your tree (been there, done that, T-shirt embarrassing so didn't get one).
7. Lift the tree from the ground. For those that come with a nice intact rootball, water to maintain moisture and wrap in plastic for the trip home. For those that don't come with an intact rootball, have some coarse soil handy either in pots or tubs and heel them in, then water to keep moist for the trip home.
8. Once home, wash off all the native soil. Cut the taproot area flat. Cut the large lateral roots back to a point where each is two to three basal diameters in length. This will look scary but won't hurt the tree. Re-cut the trunk to the finished chop length you want. Dust the roots with rooting powder and pot in coarse training soil. Water thoroughly. If your soil is newly mixed be prepared to water a few times to ensure it all gets wet.
9. Seal every chop and every cut branch over 1/4" in diameter. Do not fail to seal these cuts or you'll learn why it's a bad idea the same way I did (no T-shirt for that one, either).
10. Wait patiently for at least two weeks. Don't give up if nothing happens for several weeks. If you're collecting in the fall, don't give up until next spring is over.

If you're collecting after budburst for those species amenable to it, it's always tempting to leave foliage on branches you're retaining. It's not necessary and is usually not a good idea. The tree will transpire moisture out of this foliage, while being unable to effectively replace it since there's usually no feeder roots left. Best to defoliate.

I hope this helps.

Zach

 

[Underdog]

Great info! Thanks from a new guy

 

[GroveKeeper]

If you're going to cut the top and bottom of a tree, why not collect it completely and plant it in a grow bed at home? That way you can really work it in the ground.