Help styling my Olive bonsais.
- Thread starter maroun.c
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Aiki_Joker
Shohin
Nice info and thanks! Oh well. It is worth a try for maximum ramification maybe. Also might help it grow a bit faster. There are no shallow pots available here either so the basket is probably the best i can do
I cut right to the wood of the trunk. It was black in colour. I took some layers off it and it remained black in colour. There were a few large vertical roots coming from this black woody area that I cut back right to the black wood, the cuts remained a cream colour (see pics).
I may get a saw next time and cut more black wood off. Is this a good plan? The new buds haven't even wilted after the root pruning! These trees are really tenacious baastuuds! ! Ha ha ha
Aiki_Joker
Shohin
Ahh, I see. Next time I will get a saw on it. My hand shears won't do that job. I see what you mean. It is possible to lop off a lot at the Base of the trunk.
What was the black wood I saw? Was this wet bark or scar tissue or something?
aml1014
Masterpiece
Could be rot. Because of the bad soil those trees have been in.
But, yes, the pictures ColinFraser posted are what you want!
If you look carefully, it appears that Colin nibbled at the base of his tree with spherical cutters. He could have then cleaned it up a bit using the "root cutter" tool to make it a little less bumpy. But that is how you want to base of your tree to be!
But, yes, the pictures ColinFraser posted are what you want!
If you look carefully, it appears that Colin nibbled at the base of his tree with spherical cutters. He could have then cleaned it up a bit using the "root cutter" tool to make it a little less bumpy. But that is how you want to base of your tree to be!
Aiki_Joker
Shohin
Thanks for the great advice gents. Kind of hijacked this thread Maroun. Sorry about that. Hope this info helps you too. I thought it could be rot, but it was really hard material so i left it. Will cut it all off in a year or so on the next repot. Maybe in 6 months depend how it grows
Random Usr
Chumono
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I am late to this thread and I haven't got beyond this post by Adair M .... so I might regret jumping in at this point .... but I must. This quote says everything about the subject so far:
So there's no purpose in being skittish about getting those root choppers to work. It isn't even a question of realizing it a few years later. By the next season from today you'll wish you'd done it now. Adair's words and picture are a great inspiration. Actually, I don't like the olive as bonsai, but seeing the photo of all the roots ...... hmmmmmm ..... I may have to rethink my opinion of the thing.
So there's no purpose in being skittish about getting those root choppers to work. It isn't even a question of realizing it a few years later. By the next season from today you'll wish you'd done it now. Adair's words and picture are a great inspiration. Actually, I don't like the olive as bonsai, but seeing the photo of all the roots ...... hmmmmmm ..... I may have to rethink my opinion of the thing.
maroun.c
Omono
All great info no worries about the Hijack
So a new one olive and a new question on how to work with this one. I realize this is not the nices trunk and I already have few much better ones. What I liked in this one is the much smaller size (not sure if this is a wild one or not but looks like it) no clear indicators on how to proceed looking at the trunk so I'm considering a cut at 2-3 inches from bottom and growing 2-3 branches to shape up. maybe trying to save the upper potion and cutting another cylinder to try to grow in a different style or to thicken in a growing pot for few years before shaping.
Any advice or different opinions?
So a new one olive and a new question on how to work with this one. I realize this is not the nices trunk and I already have few much better ones. What I liked in this one is the much smaller size (not sure if this is a wild one or not but looks like it) no clear indicators on how to proceed looking at the trunk so I'm considering a cut at 2-3 inches from bottom and growing 2-3 branches to shape up. maybe trying to save the upper potion and cutting another cylinder to try to grow in a different style or to thicken in a growing pot for few years before shaping.
Any advice or different opinions?
Aiki_Joker
Shohin
Could cut it diagonal at the top and use on of the branches as a new leader for an informal upright (?) There would be a big scar though and you would have to grow the top leader out to heal it fast. Or as you say chop the bottom and use that branch as a new leader. Still the same scenario with the scar though. And that lower branch is not very thick so will take a longer time to thicken.
maroun.c
Omono
Thanks
I'm actually leaning towards chopping the bottom part and using that new branch as leader. I'm looking at a new more advanced one I got few days back and it follows the same style. It has a huge scare that has nicely healed and can barely be seen. Guess I'll air layer the top part next spring and when I cut it and if it makes it I'll reconsider how to work with the upper part.
maroun.c
Omono
A bit of an update and fee questions. Been paying attention to watering to avoid root rot at least till spring when I can repot in better soil. Trees are doing better and seem to be budding/growing actively.
Im wondering about how to handle the growth and new budding on the following ones specifically to avoid scars when I repot/chop.
Olive 1
This one will get ground layered and lowered back to soil level at the red mark level so to get rid of that reverse taper. Would you cleanup those buds on lower trunk to avoid scars from cleaning them when they grow thicker? How about branches on top or that one shooting? Periodical cut it just cut when styling?
Im wondering about how to handle the growth and new budding on the following ones specifically to avoid scars when I repot/chop.
Olive 1
This one will get ground layered and lowered back to soil level at the red mark level so to get rid of that reverse taper. Would you cleanup those buds on lower trunk to avoid scars from cleaning them when they grow thicker? How about branches on top or that one shooting? Periodical cut it just cut when styling?
maroun.c
Omono
Olive 2
This one will get shopped at ref mark. May e second branch at same level or lower. Can I use those two buds with arrows as new leaders or wait for buds from chip site? Cleanup those buds marked with arrows or potentially use as leaders? I'm afraid of them getting thicker if I need to cleanup in few years and cause new scars. Will try to Carve that black cut as well.
This one will get shopped at ref mark. May e second branch at same level or lower. Can I use those two buds with arrows as new leaders or wait for buds from chip site? Cleanup those buds marked with arrows or potentially use as leaders? I'm afraid of them getting thicker if I need to cleanup in few years and cause new scars. Will try to Carve that black cut as well.
maroun.c
Omono
And olive 3
Wondering about those dry roots. They have live roots in their ends but look ugly..will raise the Tree in next repot and wonder if I should start cutting those gradually from now to allow Tree to gradually grow others or cleanup in next repot. Also branches will be chopped as marked. Wonder if I should leave the thick one? It's got acceptable taper and wonder if I can save it after a chop ( no time for airlayer) sonanyone was able to grow a branch after a chop directly?
As for the Tree chopping all three branches leaves it leafless. Will it make it or should i gradually cut the branches and hope I get backbuds before cutting last and thicker branch.
Same as for this Tree.
I will chop below those thick rounds to have a nice taper and a reasonably thick trunk for styling. No space for air layer so wonder if I can save the top part without airlayering. Any suggestions for this? Keep in water or in pitting peatmoss or coco peat to hopefully have roots develop? Would I prune all leaves as well? Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Wondering about those dry roots. They have live roots in their ends but look ugly..will raise the Tree in next repot and wonder if I should start cutting those gradually from now to allow Tree to gradually grow others or cleanup in next repot. Also branches will be chopped as marked. Wonder if I should leave the thick one? It's got acceptable taper and wonder if I can save it after a chop ( no time for airlayer) sonanyone was able to grow a branch after a chop directly?
As for the Tree chopping all three branches leaves it leafless. Will it make it or should i gradually cut the branches and hope I get backbuds before cutting last and thicker branch.
Same as for this Tree.
I will chop below those thick rounds to have a nice taper and a reasonably thick trunk for styling. No space for air layer so wonder if I can save the top part without airlayering. Any suggestions for this? Keep in water or in pitting peatmoss or coco peat to hopefully have roots develop? Would I prune all leaves as well? Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Aiki_Joker
Shohin
Looking very nice and green. Are you using fertiliser and or rain water? And what is the compost mix?
I'll leave it to the experts to comment. The only thing I can say is for scar healing make sure you have top growth or growth near the scar. Cutting the branches back will slow down the healing process.
I'll leave it to the experts to comment. The only thing I can say is for scar healing make sure you have top growth or growth near the scar. Cutting the branches back will slow down the healing process.
Aiki_Joker
Shohin
Could use the current leader as a sacrifice branch if you don't want it. Just make sure it doesn't thicken too much. This branch will aid recovery and healing over any scars below it (faster if on the same live vein).
Aiki_Joker
Shohin
They say they will root in wet sand without hormone. I lost most of my cuttings in coarse wet sand (not rooting hormone). But that was probably because I went to work for a week and they dried out too much
One survived out of 20 small cuttings. Yours will be more substantial though. Just make sure you seal any cuts that you make and remove most of the leaves to cut down the evapotranspiration. Others here will have better advice no doubt. I only tried cuttings once so far
maroun.c
Omono
I am fertilizing using 20-20-20 fertilizer I have. as this is staining the white pumice I now have on few pots I am solving it in water and watering the trees with it once every 2 weeks. at around 2 tablespoons per 20 litres of water watering each pot with around a cup of water I would say its very minimal fertilizing. I used to fertilize with 1/2 small spoon of fertilizer for each pot before. not sure what the compost is made from as its what the plants came from some are mostly Coco Peat others are regular peat moss... I'm gradually repoting in Pumice/clay mix. I already repoted most of the trees that were doing very bad and the rest will all be repoted in Pumice and Clay mix coming Feb-Mar. I will try to air layer to improve the chances of the promising branches I will cut. others I guess I'll just experiment with adding a bit of rooting hormone and will place some in Coco peat, Peat and maybe a couple in water...
Thanks
Aiki_Joker
Shohin
Hi Maroun hope all is well and your olives are budding for spring
Growing fast and strong here. Recently removed the brace on this one and using guy-wires now:
hope all is well and your olives are budding for spring Growing fast and strong here. Recently removed the brace on this one and using guy-wires now:
I don't think you will find those guy wires will be very effective.Hi Maroun
Growing fast and strong here. Recently removed the brace on this one and using guy-wires now: View attachment 136821
The way to train olives is to let shoots grow out to 6 inches or so, and wire them while the shoots are still soft. Position them and put in soft curves. In about 6 weeks, they will have ligified, and the wire will start cutting in. Remove the wire. And cut back. Cut back to the first two or three nodes. Yes, you will cut of some of the branch you wired! Let it grow out again, and rewire. After 6 weeks or so, remove wire and cut back.
Repeat!!!
Olives are one of the fastest bonsai to develop!
maroun.c
Omono
I love the shape of this olive especially with the slanting trunk.
Just wondering if ur branches style should follow that angle or else why not have a straight trunk? What soil is it in?
Just wondering if ur branches style should follow that angle or else why not have a straight trunk? What soil is it in?
