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ShadyStump
Imperial Masterpiece
ABSOLUTELY!
Give it half a chance and you'll be so far down the rabbit hole The Queen of Hearts will be the least of your problems.
ShadyStump
Imperial Masterpiece
As mentioned before, private property where you know someone is good because you don't have to worry about what or when or how much, etc.
Public lands like BLM is next, but it can be tricky sometimes finding the right people to buy your permits. Just start at your local forest service and keep asking questions until you get a good lead.
More importantly, geography and geology play a big part. A whole book could be written on this, and it still wouldn't suffice. It's like getting a book on how to hunt game, or how to fish: there's far too much nuance to it to learn by reading. What species, when, where, what gear do you have? You have to get out there and do it, and swap stories and tips with others. Just get a backpack and a good pair of boots.
If you're not the outdoorsy type, you will be soon. Or you're just asking neighbors when you find out they're redoing their landscaping. Some GREAT stuff to be had from old hedges and whatnot. One of the best trees I ever saw was a parking lot landscape juniper that never took off, planted right outside a porn shop. So much girth on that trunk.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
Whoa. slow down. Collecting stuff IS NOT A GREAT WAY TO START BONSAI. I put should put that in all caps twice. It's just not.
Collected trees are not "free," You are not free to collect anything you see. Collecting a tree takes a special set of skills that are not really bonsai-related. New collectors typically kill almost everything they collect for at least the first year. First time collectors don't really appreciate WHY they're collecting something, so they typically get bad, mediocre and odd-looking trees. Some native tree species are better suited to bonsai culture than others. Some species just won't work because of a number of things, from compound leaves, to aversion to root reduction, to protected or endangered status. Best advice on collecting trees to use is to wait until you understand what the heck you should be looking for and how to get it out alive. That can take a few years.
Also, if you want to collect trees, understand that it requires permission from the landowner where the tree is located. This is non-negotiable. If you are collecting without permission and you get caught you potentially mess things up for OTHER COLLECTORS like me.
Easiest place to get collection permits is for federal bureau of land management areas (sometimes, if you know where and how to ask), more difficult in other federal lands, forget national forests. State parks can be sources as well. Most all these areas have separate sets of rules for collection natural material on their lands. You have to work through their processes, or know where to ask, mostly.
And Lastly, if you dig on private land without permission, buckshot from the landowner isn't an unreasonable response. You're trespassing/stealing/vandalizing their property. You're also burning a bridge for fellow collectors.
Cajunrider
Imperial Masterpiece
You are in Mexico. Get some Montezuma cypress seeds and get started. The species grows fast and is fairly easy to train. You can get to a hobbyist quality tree in 5 years from seeds.
HorseloverFat
Squarepants with Conkers
SO MUCH good info/advice here.
Around me, collecting trees, from a legal standpoint, on public lands is super "easy".
And everybody knows somebody with woods/wetlands/dune property.. so it's a matter of a couple phone calls.
If you get to know the DNR Marshalls, as well as the public property managers (calling them for EVERY SINGLE POSSIBILITY), Things can go real smoothly.
Check your public land maps... In most cases, 'no foraging/collecting" will be posted..
Many public spots are through federal grant or trust money.. and they are not even marked.
Just thought I'd give some insight from someone who is ALSO, ACTUALLY out in "the sh*t" consistently...
But it's not "easy" like this everywhere.
Also, what @rockm is trying to tell you is
... Collected trees OFTEN OFTEN OFTEN.. have horribly balanced rootsystems.. or roots "in the wrong places"... This means NOT ONLY knowing "how much rootmass" to dig... But knowing that you will spend extra YEARS getting the roots in order.
Knowing what's "worth it" is a science, in and of itself....
I wish I had learned.... Instead of wasting the time and energy of collecting two seasons worth of deaths or sticklings.
ShadyStump
Imperial Masterpiece
@rockm makes good points.
I make a point of listening to him even when I disagree.
I got caught up in the conversation, and didn't think to make the points he just did.
I will place some caveats on them. Looking for decent starter material to learn on can be solved by collecting, but a good rule of thumb is the more you like it or the nicer a tree it is, the more you should reconsider.
STICK TO THE WEED TREES. Leave that beautiful piñon pine alone, no matter how amazing it is.
Collecting sagebrush, mountain mahogany, any invasive species; things like this have decent survival rates, won't be missed, and can make good trees. Great for learning how to care for and style trees without ever feeling like you're wasting your time.
Same goes for the neighbor ripping out his landscape plants. They're going to die anyway, so take the opportunity.
BUT LEAVE THE BEST TREES ALONE.
I make a point of listening to him even when I disagree.
I got caught up in the conversation, and didn't think to make the points he just did.
I will place some caveats on them. Looking for decent starter material to learn on can be solved by collecting, but a good rule of thumb is the more you like it or the nicer a tree it is, the more you should reconsider.
STICK TO THE WEED TREES. Leave that beautiful piñon pine alone, no matter how amazing it is.
Collecting sagebrush, mountain mahogany, any invasive species; things like this have decent survival rates, won't be missed, and can make good trees. Great for learning how to care for and style trees without ever feeling like you're wasting your time.
Same goes for the neighbor ripping out his landscape plants. They're going to die anyway, so take the opportunity.
BUT LEAVE THE BEST TREES ALONE.
Hartinez
Masterpiece
There are not collectible sage brush or mountain mahogany unless you leave city limits. Here in Abq. Siberian Elm is a highly invasive weed. Especially in the spring when the trees drop millions of seeds that germinate in every acequia, median, yard, lowland and basically anywhere that has the slightest bit of water. The seeds are know as Tingleys Tears, and the trees are Tingleys folly. This goes back to when the mayor of albuquerque Clyde Tingley decided they would be a perfect fit for our climate in the middle of the 20th century. Its a love hate with them. Without them we would not have the canopy that we have through out the city, but they are insanely prolific and give major fits with allergies and eventually at there size have been know to fall or drop branches in major wind storms. The seeds are actually quite edible, so if we lose all of our food supplies at least we can eat elm seeds. We can’t cut the big ones down, but the city has given permission to the bonsai club to dig as many smallers ones as we’d like from the bosque.
Lebiuqse
Seedling
So the club is allowed to dig up new growth from these trees, should this possible be a good place to start? Joining the club would also help me.
Lebiuqse
Seedling
Understood, I will stick to the weed trees!
Hartinez
Masterpiece
Yes, but I would go to a meeting first. Learn the craft more.
Lebiuqse
Seedling
How do I obtain the information on one of their meetings? I am assuming they have a website or maybe something like a Facebook community page?
Hartinez
Masterpiece
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Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Joining a club is a great way to learn more. An experienced person can show and tell way more in a few minutes than you'll get from reading for weeks.
Clubs usually also have members ready to pass on stock, part trained trees and, occasionally, advanced bonsai. Prices will vary depending on the owners but usually well under retail.
Most also have tools, pots and wire available at good prices for members.
Then there's the annual show, trips to other bonsai events, planned digs where experienced members can guide newbies, etc, etc.
Highly recommended if there's a club in easy distance.
Clubs usually also have members ready to pass on stock, part trained trees and, occasionally, advanced bonsai. Prices will vary depending on the owners but usually well under retail.
Most also have tools, pots and wire available at good prices for members.
Then there's the annual show, trips to other bonsai events, planned digs where experienced members can guide newbies, etc, etc.
Highly recommended if there's a club in easy distance.
Lebiuqse
Seedling
Thank you!!
That also goes for everyone else whos chimed in quite informative!
Lebiuqse
Seedling
On it!
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
A club is about thebest place to start there is. Source for trees, tools, and most importantly experienced members who can help in person. Looks like the Albuquerque club is more active on FB than the web. We are entering the most active season for "bonsai stuff" here in the Northern hemisphere with spring. Good time to join the club because of that. Their FB page says they have a workshop on Saturday to prep for a public show in May.
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Maiden69
Masterpiece
** New Mexico**, close but not the same.
Montezuma are recommended for zones 8-11 with a few websites saying it's ok for 6-11, a bald cypress would be right for him since it is a 4a-11 zone tree (with some protection on 4-6).There are quite a few collecting sites in New Mexico, some of the yamadori that Bjorn have were collected there, but as stated above your best bet is to join a club. A yamadori under the hands of an inexperienced person is a dead tree in the making.
Cajunrider
Imperial Masterpiece
Yeah I misread. I saw Mexico on the last line and totally missed the "Rio Rancho, New" on the line above it on my computer screen.** New Mexico**, close but not the same.
There are quite a few collecting sites in New Mexico, some of the yamadori that Bjorn have were collected there, but as stated above your best bet is to join a club. A yamadori under the hands of an inexperienced person is a dead tree in the making.
You are right a BC would be OK there. If he can't afford one, next year I can send him a bunch of seeds. The 5 gallon bucket of seeds I collected this year have all germinated.
In all honesty, I think all bonsai under my hands are dead. They just don't know they are dead yet. Right now I am playing Dr. Frankenstein.
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MaciekA
Shohin
I am in my 5th year of growing cottonwood. I've definitively verified two things
The second point is all about erasing sucker/waterspout buds as they happen. During spring, erase buds that are at junctions and along the trunk near the base. That's it.
@Lebiuqse , if you decide to grow cottonwood, then please print the second point out on a sheet of paper in your workshop and return to that point a year or two from now if you are scratching your head about how to figure this species out. It's suitable for bonsai.
Also, if you want cottonwood from the wild, perhaps take cuttings in early June instead of digging a tree up. Cuttings root in mere days in the summer (they root fast in winter too if you have a heat bed).
You don't need to and maybe shouldn't dig cottonwood up out of the ground, especially if it is protected in your area. But even relatively small cuttings develop fast. If you're wanting to be especially respectful of the species, then go look around during the winter after a wind storm and look for cuttings that have snapped off of cottonwoods and are now lying on the ground -- I have rooted winter-windstorm-snapped cottonwood cuttings collected off the ground which were as large as 47 inches long -- this species roots VERY VERY EASILY even for GIGANTIC cuttings and cuttings develop outrageously fast. Remember that when on you're on a hike.
Final tip, get used to hearing that it's a bad species for bonsai and remember point #2 above.
- That it can reduce
- That dieback can be overcome and completely avoided if you do the right things
The second point is all about erasing sucker/waterspout buds as they happen. During spring, erase buds that are at junctions and along the trunk near the base. That's it.
@Lebiuqse , if you decide to grow cottonwood, then please print the second point out on a sheet of paper in your workshop and return to that point a year or two from now if you are scratching your head about how to figure this species out. It's suitable for bonsai.
Also, if you want cottonwood from the wild, perhaps take cuttings in early June instead of digging a tree up. Cuttings root in mere days in the summer (they root fast in winter too if you have a heat bed).
You don't need to and maybe shouldn't dig cottonwood up out of the ground, especially if it is protected in your area. But even relatively small cuttings develop fast. If you're wanting to be especially respectful of the species, then go look around during the winter after a wind storm and look for cuttings that have snapped off of cottonwoods and are now lying on the ground -- I have rooted winter-windstorm-snapped cottonwood cuttings collected off the ground which were as large as 47 inches long -- this species roots VERY VERY EASILY even for GIGANTIC cuttings and cuttings develop outrageously fast. Remember that when on you're on a hike.
Final tip, get used to hearing that it's a bad species for bonsai and remember point #2 above.
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