Fun with Shapecrete

Just get some fiberglass cloth like the use for auto body repair, cut it up and Mix it in with 1 part Portland cement and one part peat moss. Basically the same stuff, but maybe even more reinforced due to being able to control the length of the fibers. And cheaper this way and just like clay

You ever play with hypertufa? Sounds similar minus the fibers. Use cooking spray in the mold so it releases easier. Can use wine corks for drainage holes. Pretty sure lots of different recipes for it.

https://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/woodworking-and-crafts/make-hypertufa-pots/project

http://www.finegardening.com/make-your-own-hypertufa-container

http://www.gardeners.com/how-to/hypertufa/7925.html

I might experiment with mixes after seeing this thread. I like it. @Soldano666 yours turned out great!
 
You ever play with hypertufa? Sounds similar minus the fibers. Use cooking spray in the mold so it releases easier. Can use wine corks for drainage holes. Pretty sure lots of different recipes for it.

https://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/woodworking-and-crafts/make-hypertufa-pots/project

http://www.finegardening.com/make-your-own-hypertufa-container

http://www.gardeners.com/how-to/hypertufa/7925.html

I might experiment with mixes after seeing this thread. I like it. @Soldano666 yours turned out great!
Yes it's like a better more dense hyoertufa
 
Yes it's like a better more dense hyoertufa
I was wondering about that. I've played with hypertufa in the past but the sides were always recommended at an inch thick for stability. You've definitely picked my curiosity to revisit it again and made me glad I kept my 3 five gallon pails full of Portland cement.
 
Hypertufa, won't be freeze - thaw resistant, and part of it's "charm" is the degradation. Usually by 5th spring, after freezing and thawing it will crumble to a pile of grit. The peat moss, or paper in the mix will wick water into the walls of the pot. The peat also supports the colonization by moss, another feature of hypertufa. Walls of hypertufa pots need to be thicker than those of shape-crete in order to last more than one or two winters. In mild climates hypertufa is much longer lasting. Seriously the decay process of hypertufa is one of it's artistic charms, and why it is used.

I think shape-crete is a good product, similar or superior to the Ciment Fondue that Eric K of the I think Czech Republic uses to make those wild free form pots he is famous for.
 
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