Hack Yeah!
Omono
I like your tree! I'd probably just try to put it in a large grow box and work the nebari for a few years before trying a layer. Maybe graft a lower branch?
This dude has tools and work ethic on doing the 'correct' layering. Best of luck to you. This fit the go big or go home slogan!This is my pictorial of the ground layer. Keep your fingers crossed.
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Tupperware lidNice work. That ground layer photo essay very informative. Where did you source the plastic disc material? Buy a layer sheet, and cut to size? That will make separation and developing root spread a snap.
Once you get through the layers of living tissue it doesn’t matter how deep you go. Remember it’s just going to be sawn through completely in the end.Is it normal in a ground layer to carve that much of the sapwood out?
What do you mean? The sapwood feeds the top with moisture. Its the difference between airlayer and a big cuttingOnce you get through the layers of living tissue it doesn’t matter how deep you go. Remember it’s just going to be sawn through completely in the end.
That’s a really good observation. I’ve often wondered that myself. This is about the 5th ground layer I’ve done and proportionally fairly shallow compared to the others. All have been successful. I’ve seen the “big cutting” work numerous times. Maybe @0soyoung could shed some light on the subject. This is one of his threads.What do you mean? The sapwood feeds the top with moisture. Its the difference between airlayer and a big cutting
@ABCarve was/is the tree dormant when you started this? I have plans for two Tridents I have in the ground I would like to try this method on to get a good root spread.That’s a really good observation. I’ve often wondered that myself. This is about the 5th ground layer I’ve done and proportionally fairly shallow compared to the others. All have been successful. I’ve seen the “big cutting” work numerous times. Maybe @0soyoung could shed some light on the subject. This is one of his threads.
Thread 'Anatomy of an Air Layer'
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/anatomy-of-an-air-layer.15507/
Buds were starting to swell. I have a witch hazel I’m going to do that I’m going going to wait for the leaves to harden off. I’ve read they can take 18 months to develop.@ABCarve was/is the tree dormant when you started this? I have plans for two Tridents I have in the ground I would like to try this method on to get a good root spread.
That’s a really good observation. I’ve often wondered that myself. This is about the 5th ground layer I’ve done and proportionally fairly shallow compared to the others. All have been successful. I’ve seen the “big cutting” work numerous times. Maybe @0soyoung could shed some light on the subject. This is one of his threads.
Thread 'Anatomy of an Air Layer'
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/anatomy-of-an-air-layer.15507/
I’m consider the chances on this one about 50/50 as I’ve read conflicting statements on the species viability for air layer.
Once you get through the layers of living tissue it doesn’t matter how deep you go. Remember it’s just going to be sawn through completely in the end.
Indeed. The sapwood is what makes the difference between an airlayer and a big cutting. However, on our trees, all of the wood is sapwood. Heartwood arises when the stem becomes so thick that sufficient oxygen can no longer get to those tissues --> then die and the xylem lumens get stuffed full of 'stuff'.What do you mean? The sapwood feeds the top with moisture. Its the difference between airlayer and a big cutting
. Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.thats interesting, ive never seen anyone go that deep before, it looks like you could of got the same effect with large knob cutters. ive only ever attempted one layer and it failed so im no expert, but just thought it was interesting and different. i like the go hard or go home approach though, its part of my dna
thats interesting, ive never seen anyone go that deep before, it looks like you could of got the same effect with large knob cutters. ive only ever attempted one layer and it failed so im no expert, but just thought it was interesting and different. i like the go hard or go home approach though, its part of my dna
Thanks that’s very informative. However, I’m not totally following this part. I confused with what the consequences.btw. Since the phloem is also disrupted, the roots of a ground layer are no longer fed. They live solely on stored carbohydrates and when they are gone, the roots die.
So the new roots ( layer) aren’t contributing to the starch grains? Or they are not making enough to sustain the tree?The phloem or inner bark (that carries carbohydrates down the tree from the foliage factories) is no longer connected to the roots = no more groceries coming to the roots. If there was foliage below the girdle, then the roots would continue to be fed = this is the risk with a ground layer.
Every living cell in the tree stores carbohydrates as starch grains in the vacuoles of those cells. These reserves are converted back into sugars that are then used to continue the life processes (metabolism, and etc.). Also, the flow of auxin to the roots is reduced. Not enough auxin and roots quit growing.
In my experience, roots have enough reserves to last between 1 and 2 years (i.e., my failed ground layers suddenly collapsed in the middle of the second growing season).