First serious purchase of a pine.....thoughts?
- Thread starter Fidur
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Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
Frozentreehugger
Masterpiece
Info on what pentaphylla means . From the American conifer society site . The way I read it it’s not so much a cultivar . They refer to it as a var . Based on where in Japan the trees originate . Not clear on the difference . My understanding of a cultivar . Is a version of a tree species . Like JWP . That displays enough of a unique quality to be distinguished from the parent plant . Say a dwarf version of JWP that has distinct needle length or colour . A variation . Is a tree that is very slightly different but not enough to be a cultivar . Example a tree that is from a certain area . Looks the same but may tend to be shorter and wider then the regular version or more or less heat tolerant . Variation often seem to be from a certain area .
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Fidur
Chumono
This tree hasn´t changed a bit since I opened this thread. This is a pic of this week....
I've only watered and watched. And now (using a magnifier) I can see some green in the buds (no candles yet), so I expect a (weak) flush. I guess it's all due to the weakeness of the tree as it was transported to my island with no soil and then was repotted last summer under a heatwave. So not specially concerned about the lack of a strong growth.
But today I observed in the exposed roots area three different spots where a sticky transparent fluid was present. I guess it's sap. The pic is not good, but I can swear the big one is like a little pond of sap.
As I said I haven´t touched yet this tree, so I'm a bit concerned. My guess is that I inadvertently hit that area with the water can, or ..... maybe one of you with more experience can give a better answer
Anyway, I can´t see where the leaks come from in order to seal them.....all that comes to my mind is to put some sand or clay in the big area (*), and sealent in the tiny ones...... what should you do?
(*) Belive it or not, that was, what as a child playing outdoors, I used to stop bleeding in my wounds...
I've only watered and watched. And now (using a magnifier) I can see some green in the buds (no candles yet), so I expect a (weak) flush. I guess it's all due to the weakeness of the tree as it was transported to my island with no soil and then was repotted last summer under a heatwave. So not specially concerned about the lack of a strong growth.
But today I observed in the exposed roots area three different spots where a sticky transparent fluid was present. I guess it's sap. The pic is not good, but I can swear the big one is like a little pond of sap.
As I said I haven´t touched yet this tree, so I'm a bit concerned. My guess is that I inadvertently hit that area with the water can, or ..... maybe one of you with more experience can give a better answer
Anyway, I can´t see where the leaks come from in order to seal them.....all that comes to my mind is to put some sand or clay in the big area (*), and sealent in the tiny ones...... what should you do?
(*) Belive it or not, that was, what as a child playing outdoors, I used to stop bleeding in my wounds...
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Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Nice tree. It won’t change much until you start wiring and refining it…which is a fall activity.
Typically these are referred to as Miyajima white pines. Not sure if that is a cultivar or regional identification of the grafted-on scion type.
Don’t worry much about the sap unless you see signs of borers.
Typically these are referred to as Miyajima white pines. Not sure if that is a cultivar or regional identification of the grafted-on scion type.
Don’t worry much about the sap unless you see signs of borers.
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
Wounds made when repotting the tree last year can still be open enough to cause some sap weeping this year. Probably some roots got scraped. Feed your tree well after the needles harden off.
Darth Masiah
Omono
so, these hybrid white pines don't need a long winter dormancy to stay healthy because of the black pine root system, right. are they more vigorous and able to withstand wetter climates, too? or does the foliage growth stay pretty much the same within the same cultivar?
Fidur
Chumono
Update: 1 year under my care
It had a flush in may to july, and I wired and bent a bit in november.
I think I made some mistakes, the worst , to expose it to more than 14 scorching sun hours, everyday during summer. As a result the color of needles is a bit off and some tips (the most sun exposed) are yellowish. Also I fertilized in spring, and the new needles are a bit longer than previous.
But anyway I still hold the hope that this tree will survive in my climate. We will see.....
It had a flush in may to july, and I wired and bent a bit in november.
I think I made some mistakes, the worst , to expose it to more than 14 scorching sun hours, everyday during summer. As a result the color of needles is a bit off and some tips (the most sun exposed) are yellowish. Also I fertilized in spring, and the new needles are a bit longer than previous.
But anyway I still hold the hope that this tree will survive in my climate. We will see.....
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
I still feel the loss of my $1000 Ponderosa. My wife never knew.TBH, nothing like having sunk almost $1000 into a tree to "inspire" you to learn how to most effectively care for it and quickly. While the death of a $50 tree is tragic, the death of a $600, $1,000 or more tree can be grounds for divorce(don't ask me how I know this).
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
Pine? what pine?
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
I've been instructed to hold off on fertilizer on JWP until the needles harden off. Especially if in refinement. Of course young trees need fertilizing more.
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
This tree needs thinning for interior bud growth sake.
Especially midways and down.
Especially midways and down.
jszg
Mame
With fertilization, I've had good color this year on my JWP using Dynagrow, diluted to 1/4 the recommended concentration applied biweekly during the summer. I also plan to add Julian Adam's micronutrient powder, which hopefully has an EU equivalent on the market.
Fidur
Chumono
What do you mean? To my uneducated eye there are no problems in the interior bud growth in those sections, but surely I'm not aware of it......
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
Left to its own device (to grow thick and to lose interior needles, thus interior buds) problems will follow in "short" time.
New growth instructed to come from within a branch by thinning and pruning rather than at the growth tips.
From time to time, these need thinning to allow light into bare wood. Pruning to push back to the fruits of your labor.
Interior buds take a good while to become branches, so they need a bit of assistance to be as strong as possible.
Eckhoffw
Masterpiece
How do you like it? I think it looks marvelous.
Fidur
Chumono
I love it! It lays majestic wherever I place it....
hardtimes
Mame
And here I thought anything could be grown in Sonoma county, what seems to be the issues with them? My local nursery also sells grafted white pine
It's great to see the JWP working out for you in your climate. I'm in Southern California and sold my only JWP, because everyone online scared me. I don't think the science of how the JBP roots warm-proof the JWP scion is well understood, despite posters' enthusiasm. I don't think the heat is a problem at all though, people have these trees in Utah and Idaho, which get much hotter in the summer than your climate. Please keep us up to date as the years pass, I would greatly appreciate it.
Regarding the price, I think you got a great deal, hands down.
Regarding the price, I think you got a great deal, hands down.
That's a tough one. Don't ask, don't tell has been my motto with trees/pots. And burn the boxes.
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