Fagus Sylvatica

BobbyLane

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Here's a Green20230501_221508.jpg Beech I picked up last week..
the plan is to begin a layer on it as the buds start popping. Ive been positioning primary branches up n out, with guy wire, to allow light into every twig and to get a feel for it, I think im going to layer it at a slant... Under the 3 low branches rather than the 2. I think over time those 3 branches should help the base to swell up nicely.
 

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BobbyLane

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Was a little worried about two of the apical branches that didnt break bud until weeks after the rest of the tree was in full leaf. The upper most leader has a few leaves but still seems a bit weak... Should have a few options either way.
Not done anything apart from let everything grow out..
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I have a little one in training that did the same thing this year. Took forever to push buds in the top half. I wonder what leads to that happening?
 

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@BobbyLane

Any sign of roots yet?
Optimal timing for you to start an air layer on beech is before the leaves come out?
That is interesting considering we usually wait to do maples until after leaves are out.
Its true that different species work differently though

I have a couple I want to try to air layer myself and if you have had better success starting it before leaf out, Id want to probably copy that practice.
 

BobbyLane

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I have a little one in training that did the same thing this year. Took forever to push buds in the top half. I wonder what leads to that happening?
Been an odd season for many around the world, here in the UK a lot of trees didnt even wake up. Theres been loads of casualties and late bloomers.
 

BobbyLane

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@BobbyLane

Any sign of roots yet?
Optimal timing for you to start an air layer on beech is before the leaves come out?
That is interesting considering we usually wait to do maples until after leaves are out.
Its true that different species work differently though

I have a couple I want to try to air layer myself and if you have had better success starting it before leaf out, Id want to probably copy that practice.
I didnt check the container properly yet, one of my other beeches has roots, check in the tree thread I recently posted. All were taken as buds were swelling/popping. Harry harrington does them around that time too, most of his good Beeches are from layers. He uses pure S moss. His apprentice Sean, uses moss and perlite also has great trees.
 

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I had a deep peek the other day and noticed some callus forming, Today I took the whole container off and as suspected there is a full ring of callus forming.
I have decided the layer is probably being kept too wet. @leatherback mentioned in another thread that callus can be a sign the layer is staying too wet. It clearly looks too wet here!
Anyway, glad I caught it when I did, just re cut the bark, dabbed hormone on and this time ill go with the bag method, since Ill be able to judge better if theres enough moisture. Squeezed all the excess water out of the moss, so that its just moist...
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I had similar experience with beech. But I think i just scratched calus and coverd it back. It took some time to form the roots. Unfortunately tree died shortly after separation.
 

BobbyLane

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I had similar experience with beech. But I think i just scratched calus and coverd it back. It took some time to form the roots. Unfortunately tree died shortly after separation.
Yup Leatherback did recommend just undercutting the callus in another thread too, I was going to but then just decided to cut clean right above it, cutting it all off in process. It might be that it has to stay on until next season now, but hopefully wont callus again. Its true that Beeches can be stubborn according to what others have said. I think its better when the tree is pushing mutiple flushes, I feel this tree isnt as strong as my other much younger beech that has roots already, that tree is on its second flush and is still pushing.
Ive had them push roots on previous layers that I had let dry out through neglect last year.
 

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That pic was meant for my other Beech thread with the two trunks but oh well😁
 

Gabler

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This is an Oak in my local park. I love how the trunk splits a short way up. A little bit of reverse taper can be offset with a good basal flare..View attachment 496105

I'm not seeing the reverse taper. Each side of the fork can draw an elegant line to the base.

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I'm not seeing the reverse taper. Each side of the fork can draw an elegant line to the base.

View attachment 496109
I agree. Reverse taper applies better to a single trunk line. In this case there’s two trunk lines, so the fact that the height where the trunks bifurcate is wider than the lower portion where they overlap to me isn’t really reverse taper in the sense of something we don’t want.
 

BobbyLane

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Please take the convo to another thread guys, you can use the Oak photo if you like:)
 

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I had a deep peek the other day and noticed some callus forming, Today I took the whole container off and as suspected there is a full ring of callus forming.
I have decided the layer is probably being kept too wet. @leatherback mentioned in another thread that callus can be a sign the layer is staying too wet. It clearly looks too wet here!
Anyway, glad I caught it when I did, just re cut the bark, dabbed hormone on and this time ill go with the bag method, since Ill be able to judge better if theres enough moisture. Squeezed all the excess water out of the moss, so that its just moist...
View attachment 495601View attachment 495602View attachment 495603View attachment 495604View attachment 495605
I'm a little confused on why callus is a bad thing? Will roots not form right above it? I'm ground layering a trident right now, it has an entire ring of callus around the bottom, but roots are coming out right above the callus.
 

Gabler

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I'm a little confused on why callus is a bad thing? Will roots not form right above it? I'm ground layering a trident right now, it has an entire ring of callus around the bottom, but roots are coming out right above the callus.

Some is good. It's how you get roots. In this case, it appears there was too much callus and yet no roots.
 
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