Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
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I'm not sure about that. Being conifers I think they will do fine. I might give them some wind protection but that is about all.Hmm. I suppose you know what you're doing, but I have to ask....
Starting ground layers at this time of year? Is that a good idea?
That's an interesting point.I doubt this is going to work actually.
while I know it’s possible to air layer ezo spruce, it generally takes a long time And it’s not very reliable.
you say you will separate in 2023. Perhaps by 2023 it has Grown roots however, here there is no longer foliage available to support the existing roots.
when you do a layer that requires a long time I think you need branches below the layer that can support the existing roots. Otherwise those won’t survive for 2 years.
Again, I am pulling for you long shot or not. Best of luck.These are useless to me as-is. I'm assuming that the new roots provide for the canopy by some amount, perhaps less than less than the reduction in services than the roots that are diminishing on the root stock below, but maybe not. Just how long the lower roots can stay useful in the process is unknown to me, but I have to fight the war as it is, not as I want it. If I had my druthers, I would buy one un-grafted 12" tree, but they don't exist.
Tags say jezoensis, I too was under the impression that the "good ones" were gleniiWhere you say ezo spruce, which one do you mean, picea jezoensis or picea glehnii? Looks more like glehnii compared to my (very few) examples. I thought most of the Japanese yamadori where glehnii, but jezoensis has lovely foliage.
Forsoothe has been MIA for some time now.Any updates on this experiment? Are they still alive?
By the way, “Ezo Spruce“is Picea glenii, which has a smaller, more delicate needle, and grows slower. Jezo or Yezo are coarser. Kinda like how San Jose juniper and Procumbens Nana juniper have similar foliage, but San Jose is coarser.