Yeah as you said, what i was most attracted by was the base, it is quite impressive, especially considering the pricepoint of 200$. Im thinking if i can find some way to improve the apex it could come out beautiful in the long run, and i think im at the point were trust myself enough to invest in a slightly less massproduced treeFrom my newb, hardly any personal experience, perspective; I am seeing quite a bit of potential there despite the need to get creative with the deadwood to lighten the visual weight of the trunk at the top. I am thinking shortening and jinning one of the two trunks so it doesn't look like a trunk as much as a failed leader. There's a lot of interest in that base. I am a fan of yew in general and would love to see that tree get some love. Following to see what the people who know more than me think.
200$ is this reasonable?Has potential , roots look to be a mess, though. Also needs to have that dual apex addressed in the coming couple of years as the trunk is already developing reverse taper. I would also be a bit worried about the back branch that has raffia on it. Whoever wired the tree wasn't all that great at it and raffia usually indicates someone was trying an extreme bend. That can wind up killing the branch if done inexpertly...
Depending on the price though, could work into a decent tree with some basic care and shaping.
Im getting mixed opinions on this, are you being extra critical or are the others being too positive? Since i really dont have any experience in this regard idk who to listen to hereYou can pick up better or similar material from a landscape nursery that sells hedging plants, then you have the chance to search for one with decent roots.
What should i expect to get for 200? Could you give an example, since im going to the nursery on friday and i want to know what to look for.Not for $200. Its a $30 plant in a $30 pot at best.
Alright, ill see what i can do, however should i not be able to trust the guy who runs the place aswell? Ill link his store here, perhaps you have seen it before.You would be lookin for a substantial trunk, lots of branches, including low ones and a fairly decent nebari. Not much different from the tree above really, the one above has a poor base though. Show us some pics when you get there and I wouldnt buy anything without first inspecting the root base/flare
Esbjerg, any help would be greatly appreciated.Where in Denmark are you from?
I'm also from Denmark and perhaps I can guide you.
I sent you a PM right awayEsbjerg, any help would be greatly appreciated.
FWIW, the advice to get cheaper nursery stock is rather misleading for a beginner. It's true, but it doesn't make it all that useful, or effective, for you.Im getting mixed opinions on this, are you being extra critical or are the others being too positive? Since i really dont have any experience in this regard idk who to listen to here
Hey thanks for all this advice, i did actually end up purchasing the tree, and ill be noting down all this advice you gave me. Firstly i suppose i shouldnt attempt anything before spring, except maintainace and winterprotection. Im thinking i should move this tree into a square pot of some kind right, or is the style better suited for round pots?As always, buying trees is fraught with risk.
Not being in Denmark and not having access to nursery plants in the are, totally not sure what a fair price is.
Here’s my considered reply. Sure, if there is a nursery yew that has a thick trunk decent nebari and that’s what you want to do, go for it.
Yet this a great practice tree and if handled well can be a really good tree. But to do this one has to not look at what’s there to detract from the tree as others often do, but what’s there that can be used to create a better tree.
Trunk show great promise if handled off the beaten path of Japanese bonsai and move into the realm of Penjing. Foliage is green all the way to the trunk. Both good things. Nebari needs work… not uncommon.
Yet promise means you’ll have to work for it and be willing to take a five year journey. (Also if there’s help be sure it’s not a mainline vanilla bonsai person.)
So if you choose this tree, here’s my thoughts…
Anyways, just a couple thought
- The keys are to maximize the twin trunks, push the foliage in and attend to the nebari. This split trunk smacks of an ancient Chinese style, pictures of which elude me at the moment.) None of these items are all that technically difficult Here’s a few thoughts.
- …
- In Spring pull the tree out of the pot. Not for a regular repot, but for an uppot into a pot 1 1/2” wider all around the root ball and at least 2-3x as deep. Arrange the roots as best as possible. Remove dead roots. Spilt large ones at the ends - put sphagnum between for now. Then raise the media to barely cover the nebari. Finally moss deeply and completely, tucking the moss into the nebari end of the pot and into the media. (Please do not let anyone tell you mossing this deep is a bad thing. I’ve tested it for 3 years running… absolutely not true… just keep moss off the trunk.)
- Water and fertilize well.
- Push foliage back conservatively once hardened off. Once when hardened off, Again in late fall.
- imho Get rid of the pot . The tree should never go back in that pot
- ….
- Next fall take a saw and split the two trunks down further. All the way to perhaps 7-9 cm above the media.
- Then carve into what’s left to create difference in height, taper and shape. Each trunk should be different then the other.
- Avoid being too regular. Maximize deadwood view, but don’t bent the trunks away from each other it will ruin the effect.
- lower each trunk down to just above its highest branch
cheers
DSD sends