Does everybody remove JWP flower buds?

Adair M

Pinus Envy
Messages
14,402
Reaction score
34,919
Location
NEGeorgia
USDA Zone
7a
Wait until early fall. That way you won’t accidentally damage developing needles.
 

0soyoung

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,503
Reaction score
12,880
Location
Anacortes, WA (AHS heat zone 1)
USDA Zone
8b
So, a while back we had this thread with @bonhe about how the sites of pollen cones would develop buds and then shoots after having removed the rest of the candle. In the last few days I watched this video of Peter Chan's wherein he simply cuts through the pollen cone laden long necks of JWP.

Hmmm, I wonder ....
 

Adair M

Pinus Envy
Messages
14,402
Reaction score
34,919
Location
NEGeorgia
USDA Zone
7a
So, a while back we had this thread with @bonhe about how the sites of pollen cones would develop buds and then shoots after having removed the rest of the candle. In the last few days I watched this video of Peter Chan's wherein he simply cuts through the pollen cone laden long necks of JWP.

Hmmm, I wonder ....
With all due respect, that is a “hack job”. He has zillions of trees, and doesn’t have the time to do them properly. I get that.

I’ll make a video of my trees on my bench, and I’ll let you compare my trees to his.
 

coltranem

Chumono
Messages
772
Reaction score
1,044
Location
Massachusetts
USDA Zone
6a
As someone in his second year in bonsai I like some if the content Peter Chan publishes on YouTube.
However he techniques seem simple but the quality of his trees is also low.
 

Adair M

Pinus Envy
Messages
14,402
Reaction score
34,919
Location
NEGeorgia
USDA Zone
7a
So, a while back we had this thread with @bonhe about how the sites of pollen cones would develop buds and then shoots after having removed the rest of the candle. In the last few days I watched this video of Peter Chan's wherein he simply cuts through the pollen cone laden long necks of JWP.

Hmmm, I wonder ....
Ok, @0soyoung, I made a little YouTube video of the pines on my benches. I concentrated on the JWP rather than the JBP. I will decandle the JBP in about two weeks, and I WILL take FAR more care than Mr. Chan did when I decandle mine. I get it that he’s running a commercial nursery and is pressed for time, so for him it’s more important to “get R done” than do a good job. I do have a problem that he advocates doing such a sloppy job, however. As a teacher of bonsai, and bonsai techniques, I know that my students won’t pick up every little detail I teach. However, to teach people to just hack away is truely a disservice. There is some good information in his video, but overall, the quality of his work is an embarrassment.

All that said, compare my trees to those he shows on his video. Oh, I didn’t really show it on my video, but if you look at the soil of my JBP, you will see the tea bags of fertilizer on the JBP. None on the JWP.

 

Adair M

Pinus Envy
Messages
14,402
Reaction score
34,919
Location
NEGeorgia
USDA Zone
7a
As someone in his second year in bonsai I like some if the content Peter Chan publishes on YouTube.
However he techniques seem simple but the quality of his trees is also low.
Just wondering...

If the quality of his trees is low, why would want to learn from him?
 

coltranem

Chumono
Messages
772
Reaction score
1,044
Location
Massachusetts
USDA Zone
6a
Just wondering...

If the quality of his trees is low, why would want to learn from him?
Good point.I actually find the more I learn about bonsai the less I watch his videos.

Thanks for videoing your pines
 
Last edited:

Adair M

Pinus Envy
Messages
14,402
Reaction score
34,919
Location
NEGeorgia
USDA Zone
7a
Good point.I actually find the more I learn about bonsai the less I watch his videos.
The key to bonsai success (or at least A key to success) is to find someone whose trees you like, and is better than you. Learn to do what they do. Until you can meet or exceed their results. Then move on to someone better, if you want.

There’s no reason to follow the teachings of an inferior teacher.
 

0soyoung

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,503
Reaction score
12,880
Location
Anacortes, WA (AHS heat zone 1)
USDA Zone
8b
With all due respect, that is a “hack job”. He has zillions of trees, and doesn’t have the time to do them properly. I get that.

I’ll make a video of my trees on my bench, and I’ll let you compare my trees to his.
Yes, but ...

Have you ever tried cutting off part of a JWP candle/shoot with pollen cones?
Do buds pop from the pollen cone locations like they did on @bonhe's black pine?

That really was my 'question', one I thought germane to this thread.

I really have no interest in assessing Peter Chan as a bonsai artist.
 

Adair M

Pinus Envy
Messages
14,402
Reaction score
34,919
Location
NEGeorgia
USDA Zone
7a
Yes, but ...

Have you ever tried cutting off part of a JWP candle/shoot with pollen cones?
Do buds pop from the pollen cone locations like they did on @bonhe's black pine?

That really was my 'question', one I thought germane to this thread.

I really have no interest in assessing Peter Chan as a bonsai artist.
The only time I have done so is by accident. My Zuisho JWP can send out pretty long candles. And then, it started to produce needles. These appear as little green bundles, that elongate. Once the bundles appear, the shoot itself stops elongating.

So, the bundles... sometimes in the early stages it’s really quite difficult to distinguish between what will grow out to be needles, vs pollen cones. I have pinched too far back, and removed all the needles, leaving only pollen cones! Fortunately, there have been secondary shoots, so it really didn’t matter. Sometimes when that’s happened, fresh secondary shoots have come up from the base, and sometimes a second flush of candles have come out right where I pinched.

Now, remember, I only punch the very strongest candles, maybe about 5% of all the candles on the tree. I have no idea what would happen if I did it on virtually the whole tree. And I’m not going to experiment on my tree.

I created my video to show that it’s not “normal” to have JWP with the long necks. Where such a technique would be necessary.

You are free to make your own decision of which technique to use. Compare his trees to mine.
 

0soyoung

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,503
Reaction score
12,880
Location
Anacortes, WA (AHS heat zone 1)
USDA Zone
8b
Compare his trees to mine.
As I said.
I really have no interest in assessing Peter Chan as a bonsai artist/technician/horticulturalist.
Otherwise, thank you for answering my question. This is what I wanted to know.
I have pinched too far back, and removed all the needles, leaving only pollen cones! Fortunately, there have been secondary shoots, so it really didn’t matter. Sometimes when that’s happened, fresh secondary shoots have come up from the base, and sometimes a second flush of candles have come out right where I pinched.
 

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,070
Reaction score
8,135
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Ok, @0soyoung, I made a little YouTube video of the pines on my benches. I concentrated on the JWP rather than the JBP. I will decandle the JBP in about two weeks, and I WILL take FAR more care than Mr. Chan did when I decandle mine. I get it that he’s running a commercial nursery and is pressed for time, so for him it’s more important to “get R done” than do a good job. I do have a problem that he advocates doing such a sloppy job, however. As a teacher of bonsai, and bonsai techniques, I know that my students won’t pick up every little detail I teach. However, to teach people to just hack away is truely a disservice. There is some good information in his video, but overall, the quality of his work is an embarrassment.

All that said, compare my trees to those he shows on his video. Oh, I didn’t really show it on my video, but if you look at the soil of my JBP, you will see the tea bags of fertilizer on the JBP. None on the JWP.

Thank you Adair for taking the time to shoot render, upload and share your video.
Nice to visit part of your display :)
Here's a stab in the not so dark, an idea as to why I got the long necks this year...
(I've always fertilised in the Spring with considerably higher analysis than I did this year without such idiosyncrasies)
...but this year, I fed once, lightly diluted, generic MiracleGro and twice fish emulsion, but did NOT pinch my candles
as I normally would have, save for as you estimated maybe 5% of the longest candles that were getting out of control.
I suspect that had I pinched as always, this would not have occurred. I worry, that if I attempted this next year with no food
at all, I still would get these long necks, but, I do have a bar branch that will be removed eventually, and has a wire twisted
around it loosely to keep my attention on that branch as a possible removal plan. I plan to use this branch next Spring, to test this
idea. I always thought this to be one of the Azumas, but that info was not passed onto me by the seller.

My next question, is about your thoughts on waiting till Fall to shoot prune protecting possible latent buds.
You also mention some of Peters info was good. Perhaps the timing of this trim and the hormones available now
could produce back budding mores now, than to keep the energy at the terminal?.?.?
Maybe I should visit this bar branch with the sheers tomorrow...
 
Top Bottom