Collected Boxwood (Buxus)

[Poink88]

Thanks Brian. Yes there are some uro coming to this tree

The bottom left branch is gone. It was necessary to have the back become the front. The rewired branch somewhat filled it's location though.

 

[JudyB]

CRAZY!!!
Don't do it. This is where the rules that are in your head are bad to listen to. You are thinking "taper" and "movement". This is where you need to work with the assets that the tree already has. I also think that uro that is already there is somewhat of a focal point that you should use to your advantage.

Put down the saw, and back away...

 

[Poink88]

Thanks for the input Judy.

No saw in hand and very far from the tree LOL.

My wife "claimed" this tree so I might not get any clearance to hack it even if I get the nod from the forum (which so far has been unanimous against it). All my "ideas" have to approved by her before it is implemented on her tree.

 

[mcpesq817]

Ouch, don't cut them off. As others said, they are what makes the tree look natural and great. Not to mention, it would take you forever to build branches of that thickness in a pot (even in the ground).

You've had the tree less than a year, right? I would study it for the next year or so, get second opinions, and let it grow. I can't tell you how many original fronts of my trees ended up becoming the back or some other side.

 

[PaulH]

I agree with most of the others. DON'T CHOP.
In my opinion boxwoods almost always look best as a naturalistic, oak - style tree. To achieve this I'd recommend that you allow all of the green shoots to extend 12" or more before touching them. At that point wire oak type movement into them. When those bends are set cut back and repeat. This is how you will create the gnarly branches typical of oaks. Study all of the old oak trees you can find and try to copy the branch movement. Remember, branches on oaks usually start out growing upward from the tree until their weight bows them downward in a weeping configuration.
You should be comfortable that oaks grow in a much more complex form than the basic forms we memorize when first learning bonsai. The have multiple, heavy trunks and branching. So - called "slingshot" branching is common. The oultline of the tree is more of a flattened mushroom than the triangle shape we are taught as beginners. Many of the oldest native oaks growing where I live have beautiful heavy branches that spread far from the tree and hang nearly to the ground.
Paul

 

[Attila Soos]

I don't like that virtual either.
The oak tree style suits the tree very well, but the problem is that those heavy branches have no taper, and are also too straight for this style. So, I would start shortening them, util they are approximately half of their current length. But you need to do this during spring, to make sure that good back-budding takes place, and you don't end up killing the branches.

So, during the next season I would shorten the thick branches, and let the new growth elongate unchecked, making sure that I remove most of the unwanted shoots. At this point, I would not do any carving, because the new shoots may dry out and die if you mess with it too much. Then next year I would wire the new leaders in place, and carve down the big stubs, working towards creating tapered branches. As it was said here before, boxwood is slow to heal, so successful carving is the key.

 

[Poink88]

...the problem is that those heavy branches have no taper, and are also too straight for this style. So, I would start shortening them, util they are approximately half of their current length. But you need to do this during spring, to make sure that good back-budding takes place, and you don't end up killing the branches.

Thanks!

The problem I am having with boxwood here in Austin (as well as all my bonsai club mates) is that they do not back bud for us (unless there are dormant buds to begin with). Not sure why since some in other areas report they do back bud. I did as my friends experiment and we all ended with dead branch or tree.

I can only chase back branches as far as the last bud.

Thanks again!!!

 

[Poink88]

Thanks Paul.

I know what you mean and we have tons of centenarian live oak here that looks like that...they do not have bigger (and straight) branches on the top portion as this does though. But as you all mentioned...better to keep the branches since it will take forever to develop a replacement.

Input is much appreciated.

 

[Poink88]

You've had the tree less than a year, right? I would study it for the next year or so, get second opinions, and let it grow. I can't tell you how many original fronts of my trees ended up becoming the back or some other side.

Yep ... I know am a bit rushing it.

 

[Attila Soos]

I can only chase back branches as far as the last bud.

Thanks again!!!

That's exactly what you can do, if they are slow to back-bud. Here in So. California, you can do a one-shot fix, and they will back bud. But in your area, it will take longer, since you have to do it step by step.

With the oak-style, you need curving and winding branches. Straight branches look very awkward.

 

[bonsaibp]

Go ahead and chop it-

if you want to ruin a really good piece of material. It's all been said but of course the decision is yours- but it would be a major waste of what can be an awesome bonsai.
Go chop on an elm if you can't control the urge to chop. I'd leave this one alone until next spring's growth has hardened. This really is a good piece of material and it deserves to be treated with respect.

 

[Poink88]

Go chop on an elm if you can't control the urge to chop.

LOL. I already chopped a couple of Logwood/Campeche (they will be shown on their own thread). I think it fueled the urge to chop some more.

I'll be collecting in a week though so I will have all the chopping I can handle then.

Thanks Bob!

 

[october]

Here is a virt with no further work done, with the exception of nature letting it grow in and you just managing the growth.

 

[Poink88]

Thanks a lot Rob!!!

I think I can attain that foliage in a growing season.

 

[Attila Soos]

Here is a virt with no further work done, with the exception of nature letting it grow in and you just managing the growth.

Nice virtual, but there are some problem with these virtuals. The main one, is that there may be some ugly problems behind the nice foliage. And all you have to do to see those problems, is to make a step or two closer, and sideways. In this case, I am referring to the development of nice branching, with good movement and taper.

It is true that foliage can be successfully used to disguise some of the problems, but it is also true that a high quality bonsai looks good from many angles, and from far away, as well as from close quarters. When we step closer to enjoy the experience offered by a great tree, all those faults will surface.

But I am sure that you know that better than many of us.

The overall image that you created, is a good source of inspiration, and something to aim for.

 

[Attila Soos]

Thanks a lot Rob!!!

I think I can attain that foliage in a growing season.

Well, if you want to just throw a blanket of foliage over the existing branches, then yes. But if you want to create a really good tree, then you need more than a season.

The right approach is to first build a great structure, and then cover with foliage, making sure that you leave some of the structure visible. The hasty approach is to create a shabby structure, and then hide it behind lots of foliage.

 

[Poink88]

Well, if you want to just throw a blanket of foliage over the existing branches, then yes. But if you want to create a really good tree, then you need more than a season.

The right approach is to first build a great structure, and then cover with foliage, making sure that you leave some of the structure visible. The hasty approach is to create a shabby structure, and then hide it behind lots of foliage.

I understand...same reason why I am willing to do the drastic chops to begin with.

This tree is destined to spend a lot of time on the turntable (lazy susan).

Thanks!

 

[october]

Yes, in order to achieve the virt and have the tree be able to maintain it for a very long time. The secondary and tertiary branching must be in place. If you were looking over head at each branch, the structure should be something like this.

 

[bonsai barry]

In this virtual, I removed the large branch in the back and added some lesser branches (yet to be grown) to replace it. In retrospect I have to admit, it seems to loose a little bit of its power.

 

[mat]

Well, if you want to just throw a blanket of foliage over the existing branches, then yes. But if you want to create a really good tree, then you need more than a season.

The right approach is to first build a great structure, and then cover with foliage, making sure that you leave some of the structure visible. The hasty approach is to create a shabby structure, and then hide it behind lots of foliage.

Certainly sound advice, but I think this will take a long time with Boxwood. To create an ideal structure above this awesome boxwood trunk may take decades. I'm with the making-the-most-of-a-great,-but-not-perfect situation suggestions. Working on foliage, and maybe using some of that to cover a flaw or two. I think the decision-making has been pretty good in previous prunings.

Great material Dario. Thanks for posting and updating.