I like where you are going, but stop. You just repotted this tree. You significantly changed the planting depth. This tree needs time to recover. I'm north of Chicago, here junipers are not quite as vigorous as they are in Georgia. Here I would do no pruning and nothing that would "wiggle" or "jostle" the trunk. Any trunk movement runs the risk of breaking brand new root tips which you need. Leave the tree alone for at least the bulk of the growing season. No pruning, no wiring, nothing until after the heat of summer has broken. You can probably wire in autumn. Next year worry about cleaning up the live vein.
Junipers in general dislike repotting. Older trees should not be repotted too often, once every 5 years is fine. I have a shimpaku that is on year 11 without being repotted. As long as the media drains freely there is no "requirement" to repot. Young trees you can repot about every 2 or 3 years. I would consider your tree as being past the young tree phase. Give it to at least the end of this year's growing season before doing anything that might vibrate, wiggle, or jostle the trunk. You do not want to be breaking new root tips. Give the tree time to recover.
Junipers are vigorous, there is no need to invoke the adage "only one insult per year", but repotting is the single most traumatic thing we do to our trees, you should give your tree time to recover from repotting. It would not hurt to leave it alone for the rest of this growing season.
Definitely do no pruning right now, as the hormones in the growing tips are needed to stimulate new root tips. You can resume pruning in autumn, or wait until next year.
Wiring is the least traumatic activity we do, you can probably wire this tree sometime after the weather cools in late summer.
You can treat the deadwood with lime-sulfur. I would go ahead and do that. BUT DO NOT peel more bark off your live veins. That can jostle the tree.
It takes a few years, not an afternoon one Saturday to define the live vein and get it so you can just peel the old bark off. This tree is very slender for the peeled bark treatment. Let it grow a year or two. Let the old bark get thick enough to be flakey. THEN you can peel cleanly. At this point, other than painting some lime sulfur on your dead wood, don't do anything to the live vein, leave that for next year or even years down the road. This tree is too young to do the work you want to do.
Just my opinion, I'm not a juniper expert, but I have killed a few, and have 6 in my collection. I have one that has been in my care over 10 years, so I do know a little about them. So give your tree time to recover. Don't race towards the "perfect red trunk". I think in late summer it would be safe to wire.
Oh the tip about a little oil to make the red "pop" is good advice. Camellia oil is easily available in Japan, that is what is used there. Any natural oil would work. The lighter the better. The linseed oil used by painters, is derived from flax seed and is pretty cheap. (linen comes from flax, hence the name linseed oil). It won't harm your cambium.
The bark is definitely easier to strip if you let it get thick first. The standard practice I believe is to only strip off the flakey bark once every 3 years or so. Yes, it is done prior to a show, but if you try to strip it every year, the bark will be thin, and thin bark adheres tightly to the cambium. It will be hard to get off without damaging the cambium. Stripping once every 3 years or so, means the will be enough thickness the bark will lift more easily off the cambium.
ITs a nice tree. I'm just offering my thoughts to what I would do if it were my tree, hope they help.