I purposefully didn't buy a wheel so that I would force myself to hand-build. There are plenty of fabulous potters doing wheel work. I just want to add to the menu of whats available. Your pot was done in a similar fashion only it didn't have to be keyed like this one. As a woodcarver I feel more comfortable working subtractively, which is why I carve the mold. Carving the mold is very similar to carving a daiza.Outstanding tutorial! Not that I ever plan on throwing pots but there are some on the forum that will definitely benefit from your progression instructions.
Thanks Aaron, You indirectly reminded me to post this series.World class pots and technique!
I go around them with a small circular chain saw on a flexible shaft tool. I know that doesn't help you now.Beautiful work.
If only I had a one inch slot for getting the tree out of the pot. I just had a tree I repotted this year that had been in the pot for 8 years and it had to be broken off the tree. It had just enough recurve to make it impossible to remove. But that is a really nice pot. Love the shape and the attention to detail.
Actually it has already been once-fired, cone 10 oxidation (see post #1). It air drys in my studio. It's covered with air garbage bag and brought out for a few hour a day. That time increases as the pot become dryer. My conditions allow it to dry totally in about 3 weeks.Is this set in a kiln? Or is it air drying?
Please do. I don't teach. Which is why I posted it. Don't want this to get caught in the cobwebs of my brain.Wow!!! I am printing this!!!