Black spots
- Thread starter Cody
- Start date
TN_Jim
Omono
I would
Vasyl
Mame
Mine looks the same. Hope someone gives a good advise here
TN_Jim
Omono
I’ve been taking a deep dive into black leaf spots having this problem myself.
There are several recent threads discussing this sort of issue. My understanding is that it is usually fungal or bacterial. If so, not watering leaves at all, use of daconil, and/or spraying w/ diluted peroxide seems to be the most common approaches. There are other treatments such as copper??
This could also be the result of herbivory. Look close for critters, often tiny black spots can be their frass (yup), does it rub off? Yet, spots can also be caused by others with piercing sucking mouthparts such as Hemipterans or thrips.
Third, over or under watering...a good soil mix seems to be the best ultimate solution here.
Regarding the leaves in the photo, I would gamble that it’s fungal/bacterial. Treatment is controversial, but this tree looks healthy overall from the pic, and I would think it’ll be fine with affected leaf removal (also fallen from base of pot).
I don’t have a ton of experience with all of these problems on trees specifically, but do with potted plants, and I’ve been going pretty far deep into the rabbit hole....beware!!...I feel like that time I found a tick on my daughter and later was found calling our pediatrician because of reading about so many tick born diseases, and I think she just ate too much chocolate
There are several recent threads discussing this sort of issue. My understanding is that it is usually fungal or bacterial. If so, not watering leaves at all, use of daconil, and/or spraying w/ diluted peroxide seems to be the most common approaches. There are other treatments such as copper??
This could also be the result of herbivory. Look close for critters, often tiny black spots can be their frass (yup), does it rub off? Yet, spots can also be caused by others with piercing sucking mouthparts such as Hemipterans or thrips.
Third, over or under watering...a good soil mix seems to be the best ultimate solution here.
Regarding the leaves in the photo, I would gamble that it’s fungal/bacterial. Treatment is controversial, but this tree looks healthy overall from the pic, and I would think it’ll be fine with affected leaf removal (also fallen from base of pot).
I don’t have a ton of experience with all of these problems on trees specifically, but do with potted plants, and I’ve been going pretty far deep into the rabbit hole....beware!!...I feel like that time I found a tick on my daughter and later was found calling our pediatrician because of reading about so many tick born diseases, and I think she just ate too much chocolate
BeebsBonsai
Shohin
I dont want to fully alarm you, but ive had this same thing happen with two of my elms. Both times it was after a light pruning after the first flush hardened off. Both elms died as a result. It started at the tips and worked its way down to kill each branch. Heres why i say dont be fully alarmed. It looks like youve caught it early.
What you can immediately do:
1.) watch your watering. Water only by hand with a small spread, being careful not to splash on the leaves or branches. I think my problem was that i was letting the leaves get wet when i watered.
2.) get it out of the rain, if theres any right now.
3.) and this one is most important, buy bonide infuse granular systemic fungicide. You can get it on amazon for 24 bucks. Pay the extra fee to get it in a day. Sprinkle a small dose. About a teaspoon and a half, evenly around the tree.
4.) i wouldnt necessarily suggest usig a copper fungicide, but if the bonide doesnt seem to be working, give it one spray.
5.) if you have normal household hydrogen peroxide, put it in a spray bottle and lightly mist your entire tree, and water it into the soil. Do this today. I found it helped arrest the fungus. But do not let it drip from the leaves down onto lower branches. Mist just enough that it clings to the leaves. The fungus i had, and it looks similar here, was transported by water.
6.) remove infected leaves by finger plucking. If you want to cut you can, but disinfect your tool thoroughly when done.
I hope this helps. Be proactive now. Dont make my mistake. My tree was in bad need of a repot at the time, and i think thats why it was susceptible. If you want, you can tip the pot on an angle to improve drainage and airflow to the roots
What you can immediately do:
1.) watch your watering. Water only by hand with a small spread, being careful not to splash on the leaves or branches. I think my problem was that i was letting the leaves get wet when i watered.
2.) get it out of the rain, if theres any right now.
3.) and this one is most important, buy bonide infuse granular systemic fungicide. You can get it on amazon for 24 bucks. Pay the extra fee to get it in a day. Sprinkle a small dose. About a teaspoon and a half, evenly around the tree.
4.) i wouldnt necessarily suggest usig a copper fungicide, but if the bonide doesnt seem to be working, give it one spray.
5.) if you have normal household hydrogen peroxide, put it in a spray bottle and lightly mist your entire tree, and water it into the soil. Do this today. I found it helped arrest the fungus. But do not let it drip from the leaves down onto lower branches. Mist just enough that it clings to the leaves. The fungus i had, and it looks similar here, was transported by water.
6.) remove infected leaves by finger plucking. If you want to cut you can, but disinfect your tool thoroughly when done.
I hope this helps. Be proactive now. Dont make my mistake. My tree was in bad need of a repot at the time, and i think thats why it was susceptible. If you want, you can tip the pot on an angle to improve drainage and airflow to the roots
BeebsBonsai
Shohin
If its a small pot, ( less than 6 inches round) use ony a teaspoon. If you dont want to measure that way, six pinches of the granules. Order of ops 1, pull off infected leaves (dont cut the branches), 2. Spray with hydrogen peroxide, 3. Bonide, 4. If bonide isnt working, one copper fungicide spray.
TN_Jim
Omono
Thanks, the peroxide application is new to me in that I’ve never actually done it. I’ve felt sketchy about it in the idea of how much to apply. A light mist no drip approach is very helpful.
So you just let it dry and that’s that? Also, I’m guessing you get above & below leaf surfaces?
So you just let it dry and that’s that? Also, I’m guessing you get above & below leaf surfaces?
BeebsBonsai
Shohin
Yes, both upper and lower surfaces. Just make sure it doesnt drip. Hydrogen peroxide is completely safe for trees. Its basically free oxygen in liquid form for them. Only caution id have is to apply it in the evening so the baking sun doesnt cause the peroxide to bleach the leaves. It never happened when i used it, but i imagine it could. Same goes for he copper. If you have to use it, do it in the evening
