Big box bonsai mix

You know what I was thinking....

Calcined is kiln fired yes? So there can be quite the variable consistency per batch. I don't think there is a requirement for the product to be calcined to any degree, just calcined.
So you could get a softer bag.

I think the same holds true for DE.
Don't know how "hard" it is!
There just be a range.

I think we have all experienced the range, it's here in text.

Pertinent questions are then...
What's the range?
Which is more consistent?
Or better, which can we more consistently identify as on the harder side of the range?

Thanks for this, it's making some questions become clear.

Sorce
Yes. Thanks for responding Sorce.
The oil dry premium spec sheet states that it is fire to 1500 degrees F.
I can’t recall the temp classifications for
Greenware/earthen ware / Stone ware and such. I know u do though. 😄
 
Yes. Thanks for responding Sorce.
The oil dry premium spec sheet states that it is fire to 1500 degrees F.
I can’t recall the temp classifications for
Greenware/earthen ware / Stone ware and such. I know u do though. 😄

I wonder how it's fired, I guess it could be tumbled and fired, which would result in a pretty even product, but it seems In Any reasonable to produce amount, it couldn't be perfect.

Sorce
 
First hit on the old Google
Clay
becomes pottery at temperatures at about 1,000 degrees F (the beginning of glowing red heat - about 540 C). Traditionally, tribal earthenware is firedto about 1,400 degrees F (760 C). Heat removes the molecular water in the clay.

so this may be good or bad I guess.
- good - a little better than tribal earthenware
- bad - just a little better than tribal earthenware.
 
This is what I'm wondering...if these machines are overloaded, it's likely to give a greater range of temps and subsequent hardnesses.

Capture+_2020-01-03-10-00-54.png


Sorce
 
This is what I'm wondering...if these machines are overloaded, it's likely to give a greater range of temps and subsequent hardnesses.

View attachment 277226


Sorce
Why would you assume an industrial supplier routinely overloads their machinery?
 
Anyways, I think ill use both products for now, but will watch the oil dry 🧐. Time will tell.
I’ll be sure to report back in a year or so.
————-
 
Your oil dry is basically turface, which folks love. So good luck. I do wonder if anyone has tried Saf T Sorb. That's also a calcined montmorillonite clay.
 
I'd be surprised if they fire material destined to be thrown on the floor to even 1 degree higher than they absolutely have to.

Or carefully at all right?

That's what I'm getting at.

Expect a wide range.

Sorce
 
Havent had any issues with 8822 this year. Plants grew fine in it. Im adding some sifted crushed pine bark next year to mixes to see how some of the trees do.

Interresting tests on the safetzorb
 
crushed pine bark next year

I added what I could never find again, "pine fines" which was a great particle, sure it ain't bark, but it made the mix dry faster.

That and some Bio-tone in the soil, my plants haven't grown as well since.

Sorce
 
I added what I could never find again, "pine fines" which was a great particle, sure it ain't bark, but it made the mix dry faster.

That and some Bio-tone in the soil, my plants haven't grown as well since.

Sorce
Check mulch companies for pine fines. I have some from a place in Maryland that they call pine bark fines but I don't believe it's actually bark. It seems more just like fine mulch. However the Kambark brand I bought. That definitely is bark. I got into the kambark first, and that's why I don't believe this other stuff is actually bark. However the "other" stuff is partially composted, so it's softer and more ready to go. I intend to start using both pine products this summer and compare growth results in some grow boxes.
 
I've been using HapiGro 100% organic compost from Lowes. The one I've been getting looks like mostly pine bark. Sifts out to 60% of particles between 1/16" and 1/4". The fines and big peaces go in the tomato bed.
 
I bought a meat grinder second hand for $15. I tested it with bark chunks and it worked great.

I grabbed a $1 blender from the thrift store. I can't say that it's fast since you can only really chop up a cup at a time, but it does work. Are you talking about an old-fashioned hand-crank meat grinder? What particle size do you end up with?
 
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