Beginnings: which trees are good teachers?

Kanorin

Omono
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Backstory:
Over the last month or so I’ve checked out a few bonsai books from my local library, began reading these forums, picked up a few tools (concave cutters, pruning shears, some pre-mixed “bonsai soil") and have started to acquire or re-purpose several plants to use and learn from as “training trees,” with the expectation that it will be the trees that will be training me more so than the other way around.

My training trees are:
Tiger Bark Ficus – About 8” tall. “Mall-sai” It was pretty cheap, has some neat-looking hanging roots, and I figured I could learn something from it. I repotted it already because it came in this cheap plastic wicking chamber (water on the bottom with a wick up to the soil) which seemed like a great place for fungus to grow. I have it outside for the summer, but I can bring it inside in the late fall.

Meyer Lemon – About 18” tall. Got this as a gift in early summer. It’s been growing pretty well just sitting on the porch in full sun and the poor-drainage container that it came in. Recently, the leaves have been fading from the vibrant green to a more dull green, so I figured I’d repot it (done) in a better container with more drainage and pay more attention to it at the least. I have it outside for the summer, but I can bring it inside in the late fall.

Juniperus chinensis – About 2.5 ft tall. Found it on the clearance rack for $10 because it had a few dead branches. I pruned those dead branches off, put it in full sun, and other than watering it haven’t done anything to it. It looks a lot better than when I bought it ~10 days ago. If nothing else, I’ve got a spot in the yard that I can put it in eventually.

Japanese Maple “Sangu kaku” – About 2 ft. tall. I probably shouldn’t have bought this because it was a bit expensive for a small tree, but I really enjoy the red bark / green leaf contrast. Plus, growing up I had a Japanese maple that had green leaves w/ red highlights that was my favorite climbing tree as a kid. I’m thinking about planting this in the ground for a few years, perhaps try to air-layer it at some point in the next 2 years (mainly just to learn how to do it, but a free tree is good too), then maybe chop, regrow and see if the tree and I want to work something out long-term.

My goal is to learn some bonsai-applicable techniques with these trees. What I’d like some help with are some direction as to what things I could begin to learn/work on with each tree and when. From my reading, it seems like some of these (like the ficus) are a bit more resilient and might be the best test subject to learn how to root prune, for example. And maybe there’s a different tree that’s a good subject to learn a different technique with. Some techniques that I’d like to work on (I know that for some of these I’ll have to wait a while):
  • Keeping trees alive and healthy
  • Shaping the canopy via branch and leaf pruning
  • Shaping branches using wires
  • Growing, chopping, and regrowing trunks to induce movement and taper
  • Root pruning / encouraging more horizontal, fibrous roots
  • Propagation by cuttings and air layering

If any of these trees survive the next few months and look like they have some potential, I’ll post an individual thread to get into the nitty gritty of that particular tree. Right now I’m looking for some more big picture advice e.g. “the juniper is a good tree to learn __ on. It’s best if you do that in __ month. Make sure not to do __ in the same season.”
Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome! A few comments:

Tiger back ficus Among the most bullet-proof trees if you can give it good growing conditions during the winter. The biggest obstacle is enough light while indoors.

Meyer lemon Difficult as bonsai because the growth habit does not lend itself to bonsai training: large leaves and unpredictable branching. Also tricky as an indoor plant because of light and pest problems.

Juniperus chinensis A classic species for bonsai. There are a huge number of cultivars that differ greatly in size, growth habit, foliage color and texture. Did yours have a cultivar or variety name?

'Sango kaku' Another classic species for bonsai, and this cultivar is a personal favorite . Look closely at the lower part of the trunk to see if your tree was grafted. Most commercially grown and sold Japanese maples are grafted, which may cause problems as bonsai: obvious scars on the trunk, reverse taper, etc. Your tree may not show these, and it may not matter to you anyway. If the graft is a problem, it can be solved by air- or ground-layering. But this is an advanced technique, so just concentrate on keeping it healthy for now.

All in all, not a bad start. You could add an elm; they are very easy to grow and can be trained in a variety of styles. The most common species used for bonsai is Chinese or lacebark elm, Ulmus parvifolia, but many others are suitable. Good luck and show us pictures!
 
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Welcome to the site!

The other comment I would make about Meyer Lemon is that it is going to be a graft, and probably the graft will be difficult to conceal. Meyer Lemon is also available as a full-size tree, or a dwarf. I have both in my citrus grove, but the dwarf is really weak and I wouldn't recommend it for this reason. The fruit on both cultivars is the same size, the dwarf just grows more slowly and tops out at about 5' or 6'.

The other trees are all good subjects for bonsai. It should be noted that 'Sango kaku' only displays red on young branches. Mature branches look like regular grey JM maple branches.
 
I agree that lemon, in fact most citrus, are difficult to grow as container plants. Do not believe anything this species tries tto teach you. Lemon is surprisingly easy to propagate as cuttings or layers.

Most Ficus are extremely resilient. Very responsive to root pruning in warmer months but may die if root pruned in winter. Very responsive to pinching, defoliation, branch pruning and trunk chopping most times of year. Sub tropical species so NOT cold tolerant. Indoors for winter. Ficus are among the few species that actually thrive indoors if minimum conditions are met.

Juniperus chinensis are very good beginner trees. Easy to repot, especially when young. I generally root prune early- late spring but many now repotting in late summer/early autumn. Responds moderately well to pruning and shaping but never prune to bare wood. Young wood is quite flexible so great for wiring and can be bent to quite extreme bends if required. Older wood is hard and can be brittle. Some reports that extreme bends while trees are actively growing can seperate bark from the wood and kill the branch. Sacrifice branches work well to thicken trunks and can be used as dead wood. Grow, chop and regrow also works well to achieve taper and shape. Prune any time of year. Trim regularly to maintain shape. Slow but relatively easy as cuttings. Very easy to layer and will self layer if growth is close to the ground.

Japanese maple is relatively easy to keep alive but difficult to maintain looking good for extended periods unless you have high level pruning skill. Tends to develop thickened areas near pruning sites when not managed diligently. Dieback can be a problem after pruning sometimes. I've found 'sangu kaku' less responsive than standard species. It tends to have longer internodes and is harder to get good ramification. Root prune and repot late winter - early spring before buds open. Prune and pinch as required any time of year. Take anything you think 'Sangu Kaku' has taught you with a grain of salt. I find JM difficult from cuttings but layer well.

I find trident maples are far better teachers than Japanese maples. Responds far better to reduction pruning so problems that develop can just be cut off and regrown even better. Grows and develops far quicker and also hardier in my climate.
Chinese elm is another traditional favorite that is a great teacher for beginners. hardy and resilient to root pruning and any top pruning. Grows easily from cuttings or root cuttings.
 
Welcome to BNut.

I'm going to echo the above.
I suspect you know that grafted trees, frequently do not heal the graft smoothly enough to make good bonsai, which is why you said you will plant your Acer palmatum 'Sango Kaku' in the ground, and air layer off pieces for bonsai. Once in a while, a graft union heals smooth enough that a tree can be used for bonsai, it is merely a matter of appearance. But I think your plan for the 'Sango Kaku' is a good one. It is one of the JM cultivars that will air layer reasonably reliably. Not a ''beginner's tree'' but maples are a mainstay of deciduous bonsai, you may as well begin learning maples now.

Juniper chinensis - this is a great juniper for bonsai. The ''modelling clay'' of bonsai art. You can create any style with it that you choose. It is fully winter hardy in the Saint Louis area, do not bring it indoors for winter, or give it too much protection. They are tough, don't baby it. If the pot is not adequately frost proof you can slip pot the tree into a similar shape plastic pot for the winter, and protect your ceramic pot from freeze thaw cycling which will break the pot. The old variety 'Blaauw' is often sold for landscape material, and is quite good for bonsai. Best are Itoigawa and Kishu varieties of Shimpaku, or the more generic 'Shimpaku' but any of the Juniper chinensis cultivars are good.

Citrus - are problem plants. They need regular applications of an iron supplement, or a fertilizer for acid loving plants. They are pest magnets, and all in all very angular in their growth habits. Trunks and branches have green bark that slowly ages to mottled white & green, then light brown. At about 25 years of age, this not very attractive bark starts to change to a pebble texture nice dark brown bark, for some, like kumquat, the bark will be almost black. The problem is, they tend to be ugly the first 25 to 35 years, then suddenly they are beautiful. If you can get them through the first few decades, they make beautiful bonsai. Meyer lemon will need to be medium to large as bonsai, since leaves don't reduce as nicely as some others. Best citrus for bonsai are the Kumquats (Fortunella) and the Calamondin oranges. There are some newer hybrids that have smaller leaves and small fruit that are worth working with too.

Ficus is a great choice

I would definitely add an elm to your collection. Any native or locally invasive elm, or the Chinese elm would be great. The Chinese elm is fully winter hardy in the Saint Louis area. But any elm, American, Slippery elm, Rock elm (Ulmus thomasii) and Siberian elms are all good subjects. Dig up a stump in winter, after the ground thaws, before leaves sprout and pop it into a bonsai pot. You can harvest a nearly rootless stump from a hedgerow or fence line and it will grow with abandon.

Pines - a major part of bonsai is pines. You are at the northern limit for Japanese Black Pine to be reliably winter hardy, they are winter hardy in your area. They are not reliably winter hardy in Chicago. Somewhere between Saint Louis and Chicago is the ''line'' where they are no longer reliably winter hardy. So you can get yourself a Japanese Black Pine. There is a huge volume of literature on them, you can spend a lifetime learning the intricate details of how to deal with JBP.

Other pines to consider for Saint Louis area are Mugo, Scots pine, Pitch Pine (Pinus rigida), and Virginia pine (Pinus virginiana). The Japanese white pine will thrive in your area, but it is a difficult species to learn. The eastern white pine (Pinus strobus) I strongly recommend you avoid.

Pomegranate is a favorite indoor for winter, outdoors for summer bonsai. They are very forgiving of heat and need full sun. Bougainvillea are another indoor for winter out for summer.

Malus - the apples and crab apples - they are excellent outdoor bonsai for your area. All are good teachers.

To get ''own root'' cutting grown named cultivars of several Japanese Maples, Flowering crab apples, and flowering cherries and apricots, see the Evergreen Gardenworks mail order website. Brent propagates for bonsai, and offers mostly cutting grown material. Also read the articles in his Archive, he has some great info for those getting started.

This list should give you a few ideas.
 
Thanks all for the advice!
Here is what I'm thinking about for a general battle plan.

Tiger back ficus: Work on keeping it alive through the winter. Perhaps it's time to start thinking about a direction for it? Picture incoming

Meyer lemon: Just see how long I can keep it alive. It was a free tree. Best case scenario: lemonade sale next summer to fund my next plant purchase.

Juniperus chinensis This is a "spartan" juniper, which it seems are not ideal for Bonsai. Picture incoming. Maybe I can at least prune some branches and practice wiring it this fall/winter.

'Sango kaku': I'll ground plant this as it does appear to be grafted (though it looks like a pretty low graft - we can see how the tree looks in a few years). Maybe I can try an air layer next spring? Or in 2 years? Picture incoming

In the mean time, I'll see if I can source some decent looking Elm, Mugo pine (I know I've seen these for sale locally), and/or another maple with no graft scar.
 
Welcome! A few comments:

Tiger back ficus Among the most bullet-proof trees if you can give it good growing conditions during the winter. The biggest obstacle is enough light while indoors.

Meyer lemon Difficult as bonsai because the growth habit does not lend itself to bonsai training: large leaves and unpredictable branching. Also tricky as an indoor plant because of light and pest problems.

Juniperus chinensis A classic species for bonsai. There are a huge number of cultivars that differ greatly in size, growth habit, foliage color and texture. Did yours have a cultivar or variety name?a

'Sango kaku' Another classic species for bonsai, and this cultivar is a personal favorite . Look closely at the lower part of the trunk to see if your tree was grafted. Most commercially grown and sold Japanese maples are grafted, which may cause problems as bonsai: obvious scars on the trunk, reverse taper, etc. Your tree may not show these, and it may not matter to you anyway. If the graft is a problem, it can be solved by air- or ground-layering. But this is an advanced technique, so just concentrate on keeping it healthy for now.

All in all, not a bad start. You could add an elm; they are very easy to grow and can be trained in a variety of styles. The most common species used for bonsai is Chinese or lacebark elm, Ulmus parvifolia, but many others are suitable. Good luck and show us pictures!

its actually pretty rare as bonsai.a simple google search wont give much examples either...

i have one for sale atm
 

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Following! I'm a newbie in the STL area myself. This will be my first real winter in bonsai, fingers crossed my various ficus and Chinese elm make it!
 
Following! I'm a newbie in the STL area myself. This will be my first real winter in bonsai, fingers crossed my various ficus and Chinese elm make it!
Just curious, where in IL are you?
 
Not far off from Alahambra at all, I'm in Litchfield.
All the other IL people here are mostly from up north by Chicago. So kind of fun to have someone here so close. Been a weird weather year here for sure. Your ficus will be OK inside for sure, grow lights help keep them happy. I don't have any elms, but keep some crab apples in a detached garaged over winter. Ill be keeping a few crape myrtles in there this year as well.
 
Following! I'm a newbie in the STL area myself. This will be my first real winter in bonsai, fingers crossed my various ficus and Chinese elm make it!

Your Chinese elm will be fully winter hardy if you have been growing outdoors all summer. Of course the Ficus come indoors for the winter.

You should contact Carol via PM and set up a meet up. Either at a nursery like Cass Bonsai before they close their doors permanently or maybe at the St Louis Botanical Garden, or somewhere. Davidsan's Maple nursery near Springfield Illinois is worth a visit if only to learn about maples. All of their named stock is grafted, so not for bonsai. But it is a fascinating place to visit if you are getting into Japanese maples. Sometimes they have a few one gallons of no name volunteer seedlings they collected while weeding around the place, so those are good for bonsai. But all the stock with names is grafted and usually higher priced than I would recommend for any bonsai project. But wow, what a collection of maples.
 
You should contact Carol via PM and set up a meet up. Either at a nursery like Cass Bonsai before they close their doors permanently or maybe at the St Louis Botanical Garden, or somewhere. Davidsan's Maple nursery near Springfield Illinois is worth a visit if only to learn about maples. All of their named stock is grafted, so not for bonsai. But it is a fascinating place to visit if you are getting into Japanese maples. Sometimes they have a few one gallons of no name volunteer seedlings they collected while weeding around the place, so those are good for bonsai. But all the stock with names is grafted and usually higher priced than I would recommend for any bonsai project. But wow, what a collection of maples.
I'm planning to go to the STL Bonsai Society meeting on Sep 10th (first time going for me). If anyone else from the area is going, feel free to send a PM.

I didn't know Cass Bonsai was closing...that's a place I've been meaning to check out. Might have to do so soon!
 
All the other IL people here are mostly from up north by Chicago. So kind of fun to have someone here so close. Been a weird weather year here for sure. Your ficus will be OK inside for sure, grow lights help keep them happy. I don't have any elms, but keep some crab apples in a detached garaged over winter. Ill be keeping a few crape myrtles in there this year as well.

Yeah I have a feeling this will be a bad winter for us, just a feeling!
Do you recommend any grow lights in particular?
 
Yeah I have a feeling this will be a bad winter for us, just a feeling!
Do you recommend any grow lights in particular?
I don't have anything fancy, just some LED's from Amazon. But I also have a southern and eastern exposure that they get natural light also.
 
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