Adair and Cmeg1 and anyone else - Look Here - Like Zelkova

[Adair M]

With deciduous trees, to have to "build the tree" one step at a time.

Step 1: build the trunk. ( and get the nebari going well)

Step 2; build the primary branches

Step 3; build the tertiaries.

Step 4: build the ramification




As you so dramatically show, it's really difficult to build trunk on s bonsai pot.

I don't know this species, but when you remove the sacrifice branch, you're left with a big scar. Which I fear will be slow to heal. Trunk scars close well if a new sacrifice branch is allowed to grow at the apex. On a tree that's beginning the ramification stage, there's not enough growth to heal a big scar quickly.

Look at Step 1: trunk. Let a leader grow. Cut back. Let a new leader grow. This builds taper, and heals the scar from the first cut back. Cut back... Until you're happy with the trunk.

Then start branches. Same process, but goes slower because the energy is spread out. The trunk will thicken a little, but not much.

Same with secondaries, etc.

There is an opt repeated adage that "once you put a tree in a bonsai pot, the trunk stops growing". There is some truth to that statement.

There is also the concept that bonsai are best created by cutting back a larger tree. Again, some truth to that, but it applies more to conifers than deciduous. Really good deciduous are built by the 4 step plan.

 

[Adair M]

Anthony, that appears to be a fast growing tree.

I think you would do better by following Cmeg's plan of starting with seed or seedlings. To create. Really good bonsai.

 

[Jacos]

There is an opt repeated adage that "once you put a tree in a bonsai pot, the trunk stops growing".

I personally feel, and have experienced to my shame, that there is very much truth in this adage !

 

[Anthony]

Actually Jaco,

that isn't quite true. We have two trees thus far that can thicken in Bonsai pots, the Ficus p. and the Texas Ebony, and with time there will be more names.
The Ficus p. has to be grown in a shallow 1" pot, with little organic material to slow it down, as the trunk goes.

We missed something with this tree , the Fustic, and fortunately, had cuttings of that tree in the growing trough [ ground growing ].
Additionally, fustic comes in rough and smooth bark, zelkova type leaf, and the same leaf shape, but as though a leaf cutting ant had taken a chunk out of it.

As I mentioned elsewhere here a while ago, it seems to be the cambium, how thick or how active at wound healing.
If you need visual proof I can supply it.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Anthony]

Okay here is a design for the tree.
It is based on negative and positive areas, seen with overhead / side lighting, and at times looking through the tree's canopy.
More as one would see in a painting.

The idea is to play on the green mass of leaves, as they darken and lighten in a pattern. As we see our trees closer to eleven a.m / noon.
As the idea evolves, an eraser will come into play.

Did I lose the viewers?

Good Day
Anthony

 

[mcpesq817]

Yeah, I'd use the that bottom right branch as a sacrifice to get the base a little thicker, then cut it off. You might have some swelling and reverse taper going on at the area where the three branches emanate too.

 

[Geo]

Never have to worry about that, Anthony.