Acorn to Oak Tree Contest Rules Discussion

I think I'll take a walk and try to get some swamp white oak acorns, Quercus bicolor, I think they will be better than bur oak, (smaller leaves) and tolerant of wider soils conditions than white oak, Quercus alba. Though white oak will do, if I can't find Q. bicolor.

I like bur oak because its bark is the most coarse & fissured of all the northern oaks, and it is the most winter hardy. However, its leaves are too damn big. I had a faint hope the leaves will reduce, but I have only seen the odd leaf reduce. To this day majority of leaves are always too damn big. I'm 11 years in on a bur oak seedling and the leaves are still averaging 4 to 5 inches. So bur oak has some good traits, but leaves are a problem.

All the oaks have big leaves, but the pin oak-red oak group has smaller leaves than the rest of the northern oaks. Those of you in zones 7 and warmer are lucky because you can grow the 2 groups of "live oaks" the western and the southeastern live oaks, both having smaller leaves.

Quercus virginiana - south eastern live oak, is more or less in the white oak family. The evergreen "live oaks" of California and Arizona are more or less a sub-group of the red oak family.

As to living long enough to finish the contest. I'm 68 now and have every intention of living another 30 or 40 years, anyone who says otherwise can kiss my butt. Of course reality may kick in, but I'll deal with that when it happens. Right now I am still optimistic enough that I am still planting seeds.
I have a couple of Q. ilex grown from acorns planted in January 2021. Not valid for this context I know. I just wanted to mention that they have wintered indoors here and I'm pleased with the results so far. They are under T5 lights, with a fan, in a fairly cool basement, then out on the bench all summer. I get a couple of flushes of growth each winter. If I could get my hands on some Q. ilex acorns again this fall I'd be happy to start again for this contest.
 
@Michigan Tree Murderer:

It doesn't matter if you plant them pointy side up or down—or sideways or diagonally.

Also, larger acorns float because they have larger air pockets inside that take longer to absorb and fill with water. In other words, you should plant them, because there's a good chance they're viable.

@ERClover:

Your acorns will be fine sealed in a plastic bag in the fridge. Maybe wash them with hydrogen peroxide solution to prevent mildew, but simply waiting a week to sow them won't render them unviable.
 
I am still on the look out. A 6 weeks ago I could hardly go anywhere without seeing acorns. It may just be a little to late to jump in with found acorns here. Will continue keeping an eye out or may end up buying some.
 
I am still on the look out. A 6 weeks ago I could hardly go anywhere without seeing acorns. It may just be a little to late to jump in with found acorns here. Will continue keeping an eye out or may end up buying some.

You could always buy a pack of acorns from Sheffields or something.
 
Maybe this has been already answered, but should we start a separate thread to document our progression ?
If yes, what should be the standard name ?

Already posted my entry in the other thread
 
Maybe this has been already answered, but should we start a separate thread to document our progression ?
If yes, what should be the standard name ?

Already posted my entry in the other thread

Other contests all seem to have a special sub-forum for contest threads. I asked @Bonsai Nut if there's some sort of process for getting one of those, and I'm waiting on an answer before I tell you where to put your contest threads.
 
Anyone have any idea what these bad boys are? On a work trip this week and it definitely looked like an oak that these were all laying beneath and these certainly bear a resemblance to acorns, though like none I’ve ever seen. They’ll be coming home with me regardless.
 

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Any thoughts on their prospects for bonsai? Apparently in the white oak family which I hear are tougher to make work.

Where did you hear that? Pretty much every oak bonsai I've seen is a white oak.

As for overcup oak specifically, the leaves are big, but they should reduce somewhat. I've never personally tried, but I see no reason to expect they wouldn't.

Part of the purpose of this contest is to generate more information about various oak species as bonsai. I want to see what everyone tries to see what works and what doesn't.
 
Where did you hear that? Pretty much every oak bonsai I've seen is a white oak.

As for overcup oak specifically, the leaves are big, but they should reduce somewhat. I've never personally tried, but I see no reason to expect they wouldn't.

Part of the purpose of this contest is to generate more information about various oak species as bonsai. I want to see what everyone tries to see what works and what doesn't.
I suppose I’ve just read most of the usual critiques that boil down to large leaves, coarser growth, etc. Some of the stuff things like sugar maples and sycamores are associated with and why they’re “not worth it”.
 

@Maiden69, it's normal for white oaks to germinate immediately upon dropping in the fall. Many of mine had already germinated before I got them, and others germinated shortly thereafter. They wait to send up leaves until spring. The radicles look damaged at the tip, but I would expect the seeds to continue to try to send out more roots. The bugs are certainly an issue, but they don't seem to have eaten your trees yet. Soak all the seeds in a hydrogen peroxide solution to kill what's on (or in) them and plant them in containers. They should be fine.
 
@Gabler do you use 100% peroxide or a diluted solution, I'm going to do the paper towel thing then, leaving them on the desk to check, if I see some movement then I'll move them into a small pot with pumice and some shredded sphagnum.
 
I plan on trying my hand with some Q. garryana (Garry Oak, Oregon white oak or Oregon oak) as they are a native and I wanted some actual natives this time around.

I could have asked my dad to keep an eye out for acorns, but I just went for Sheffields since I was buying more seeds from them anyways.
 
@Gabler do you use 100% peroxide or a diluted solution, I'm going to do the paper towel thing then, leaving them on the desk to check, if I see some movement then I'll move them into a small pot with pumice and some shredded sphagnum.

I use the 3% solution in the brown bottle you can buy at any drugstore.
 
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