Acer palmatum

with such a cut, you are likely to have numerous shoots from the same node. Do NOT hurry to select them to two, let them do a few leaf pairs before you select waht you want to keep. Why? If you select too early, all the vigor will go in the selected shoots and they will likely have too long internodes, if you don't select early, you will likely have one or two shoots "dominating" the others, those other dominated shoots will grow with smaller internodes, and those are the ones you will keep ultimately, removing then the shoots with long internodes. with maples it's always good to think about having a "sacrificial" distal shoot or node that will suck up vigor allowing the more interior shoots to grow with reasonable internodes. This is the way to build maples in construction without having to pinch (what is good in established trees, but slows growth too much in trees in building)
 
Alright alright, point well made!

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Thank you for the replies guys’
@papymandarin @barrosinc @TomB

In future, I’ll chop back more of the stubs that will be left over, to make it cleaner. From my brief experience of maples, there’s always stubs to clean up and get rid of :).
I can cut the lower back further once buds pop.
Really like the movement and direction of this one.
 
Maybe.
But he seems to know his shit.

My thoughts exactly :).
He seems to have picked up one or two things over the decades.

Cheers for your replies guys, it’s appreciated.
Now I await the bright red buds to pop.
 
Dunno if we`ll see conor again... I heard he went wild after this. Started chopping up all is neighbours trees and got arrested..

Lol. Not gonna lie, cutting back quite hard and seeing the benefits does make you wanna do it on other stuff!

Hows this tree doing now pal

Brief answer: well. It’s going well :), great response from the tree.

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Just gotta make sure I protect this new growth!
 
Lol. Not gonna lie, cutting back quite hard and seeing the benefits does make you wanna do it on other stuff!



Brief answer: well. It’s going well :), great response from the tree.

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Just gotta make sure I protect this new growth!
Looks good just keep it well watered and in the shade at the hottest times of the day and it will be fine.
Don't be suprised though if it does struggle for a while untill its regained some strenth
 
Looks good just keep it well watered and in the shade at the hottest times of the day and it will be fine.
Don't be suprised though if it does struggle for a while untill its regained some strenth

Good advice, thanks. I need to check at weekend but I believe it’s currently in a position where it gets the morning afternoon sun then it’s in shade.. I think that’s right. I wat it getting sun but now it’s unfurling leaves, I think mostly shade would be better... if I can get that.

It’s in 100% litter, DE inorganic. Watering currently every day or second day. It’s very sunny and warm at the moment but with no leaves, it’s not losing hydration fast, as expected. Either way, 100% inorganic, I could water everyday, don’t matter.
My main stress is gonna be wind and sun on those fresh new leaves..! Worrying.

Glad you said don’t be surprised if it struggles though. I’m wondering how these new leaves will look.. if fully formed and good green colour, I’ll be happy.
 
Please Keep us posted on the progress, this post can be very helpful for all of us having a Maple tree - Thanks

No problem.

With any luck, this is something you can look back on in 5 years and will have the full discussion and 100s of progress pics.
I’ve got high hopes for this tree, it’s quite special for me.
 
No problem.

With any luck, this is something you can look back on in 5 years and will have the full discussion and 100s of progress pics.
I’ve got high hopes for this tree, it’s quite special for me.
Keep up with the fungicide. Much of all that foliage you just showed already shows signs of fungus. Stay on it, and don't let up. This is when fungus can really take a tree. It has no other growth to keep up and all the new growth will never operate correctly to support the tree. Black areas or damaged veins in the leaf do not photosynthesize food.
 
Keep up with the fungicide. Much of all that foliage you just showed already shows signs of fungus. Stay on it, and don't let up. This is when fungus can really take a tree. It has no other growth to keep up and all the new growth will never operate correctly to support the tree. Black areas or damaged veins in the leaf do not photosynthesize food.

Ok thanks Smoke, i has been applying this to the tree due to all the problems it had last year but I’ll make sure to stay on it, another dose tonight, as it’s not had one in a while.

For my own learning, what are you seeing in the pics that indicate fungus?
 
Ok thanks Smoke, i has been applying this to the tree due to all the problems it had last year but I’ll make sure to stay on it, another dose tonight, as it’s not had one in a while.

For my own learning, what are you seeing in the pics that indicate fungus?
He mention the black on the leaves if I am not wrong.
 
He mention the black on the leaves if I am not wrong.

I believe that’s general signs of fungus, if a tree is infected.
My tree has no leaves yet :).
It has 2 but they are the previous growth, not new growth from the hard pruning.

Those 2 small leaves were right in the middle, shaded out and probably didn’t get much sun. It’s the brand new growth that’s starting to unfurl, that I’m worried about it :)
 
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