1 Sorce! 8 Nanas! 7 Depots!

BK Bonsai said:
They look like great subjects @sorce. After you chop up the top, do you reduce the root systems and then put it back in the 1 gallon pot with fresh bonsai soil? Or is that not necessary?

P.S. I've been looking for a shimpaku, What is the best website to buy from?
Click to expand...

I have absolutely no Idea!
I still have to get to that stage!

I Probly won't reduce the roots much, as I have never repotted a nursery juniper.
I will probably throw them in Colanders or the like....while I work on training them.

Then once they are as healthy as Mike Frary's staked up nana......

Maybe....just maybe.....I can successfully work the roots and pot them....

I'm gonna take and see what the worst one does this year...and if it goes well...I may do another the next year....

In the end...I hope to have 1 decent tree...
That's why I have 8.

@GrimLore can possibly lead you to shimps....
And maybe help me with these too!

My knowledge really doesn't go much past thinking a lot, and observation.
Still a lot of hands on tasks to learn!

And it's a giant freaking list!

Sorce
 
M. Frary said:
Clay based right?
Click to expand...
It used to be. Now some of it is Diatomaceous Earth like Oil Dry. These things will work in a soil mix on a limited time scale, I would not use them for conifers that need a soil mix that need to have a stable soil mix over time; five years or more.
 
sorce said:
Last year, I may have underwatered.
In nursery pots? I never gave em a good flush for fear of root rot.
I think that's why they died!
This year, more water!
Click to expand...

Full Sun and damp not wet - Never let them dry out completely and they will do fine(same goes for Winter just no water when you are positive the are frozen). Treat all the types of Juniper the same where you are unless the plants come from a warm climate. If they come from down South as most do you should protect them a bit outdoors the first Winter. After that they should be ok outside unprotected if healthy.
Mine stay in the Nursery soil and pot for a few years which allows for light trimming/wiring. After a few years I will slip pot as they grow into Nursery type substrate. I noticed you have a bit of root showing at the surface. Get a bag of Fafard Topsoil and cover them to fatten them up... Also, that bag will make a very good base for a Nursery mix and a lot of it.

BK Bonsai said:
After you chop up the top, do you reduce the root systems and then put it back in the 1 gallon pot with fresh bonsai soil? Or is that not necessary?
Click to expand...

I have never seen a Juniper handle root and top work at the same time good at all - that is exactly how my Wife killed many. Forget about potting them for a few years and you will be happy. Now finding a true Shimpaku can be a real experience. They are the best to work on and great to look at - I seldom find them identified correctly and often they are lumped in with Itoigawa and Kishu. The FACT is they are 3 different plants from three different places and they are quite different. When ANY vendor has one for sale be certain you call them and they verify it is a Shimpaku AND are willing to take it back for a full refund if not.

Grimmy
 
GrimLore said:
Full Sun and damp not wet - Never let them dry out completely and they will do fine(same goes for Winter just no water when you are positive the are frozen). Treat all the types of Juniper the same where you are unless the plants come from a warm climate. If they come from down South as most do you should protect them a bit outdoors the first Winter. After that they should be ok outside unprotected if healthy.
Mine stay in the Nursery soil and pot for a few years which allows for light trimming/wiring. After a few years I will slip pot as they grow into Nursery type substrate. I noticed you have a bit of root showing at the surface. Get a bag of Fafard Topsoil and cover them to fatten them up... Also, that bag will make a very good base for a Nursery mix and a lot of it.



I have never seen a Juniper handle root and top work at the same time good at all - that is exactly how my Wife killed many. Forget about potting them for a few years and you will be happy. Now finding a true Shimpaku can be a real experience. They are the best to work on and great to look at - I seldom find them identified correctly and often they are lumped in with Itoigawa and Kishu. The FACT is they are 3 different plants from three different places and they are quite different. When ANY vendor has one for sale be certain you call them and they verify it is a Shimpaku AND are willing to take it back for a full refund if not.

Grimmy
Click to expand...
I must be some sort of miracle maker any juniper I've styled and repotted have lived, honestly I have no idea how though.

Aaron
 
aml1014 said:
I must be some sort of miracle maker any juniper I've styled and repotted have lived, honestly I have no idea how though.

Aaron
Click to expand...

My first and best guess is that they were grown and purchased locally in good health. Plants here in the North East are often grown in the South and need time to acclimate and get healthy just from the move ;)

Grimmy
 
This is my first juniper, it had basically no roots when repotted, most of the trunk died in the process but it's still going strong.

Aaron20151104_095336.jpg
EDIT: I know it's young and in the wrong pot if it was ready but since I darted I've learned that they need to be healthy which is what Im trying to do before repotting into an air pot.
 
I'm another plus one for Brent, good stuff for the price.

I have Itogawa, and Kishu, and for a while I had Juniper chinensis "Blaauw" - which is a Pfitzer type, like a coarse shimpaku and winter hardy to -27 F, from my experience. But that was the 1980's I doubt I'll ever see that locally again. There is an up side to global warming. :rolleyes:

I can attest to the Kishu and Itogawa being easy. And forgiving. Shimpaku should be even easier.
 
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