EBIHARA BRANCH RELOCATION

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I've wanted to try this ingenious technique for many years. But I did not have a proper subject until about three years ago when I purchased this multi-trunk Japanese maple that was originally imported from Japan by Doug Paul at the Kennett Collection. The tree suffered greatly in the quarantining process in which one of its large trunks died back. Despite this I fell in love with this large maple and was determined to bring it back to glory by using any and all techniques at my disposal. One of those involved relocating a branch (or two) which was invented and developed by the great Mr. Ebihara who is often referred to as the Kimura of the deciduous genre.

I want to share my process of relocating one branch by said method. Below a play by play account of the first phase of this technique which was just completed.


This is the maple March 2019 showing strong growth from the previous year with a thread graft in progress.

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The maple right before the removal of the targeted branch to be relocated.

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A two year old Japanese maple sapling was used to do an approach graft onto the targeted branch to be relocated. Grafting tape and wire were used to secure the graft in place as indicated by the red arrow. The white arrow indicates a second point where additional support was added to hold things in place. The pot in which the sapling is in was suspended and secured with a series of wires fastened onto various nearby branches.

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The graft union after the grafting tape and wire were removed. In 3.5 months, the graft union is strong and complete. It was safe now to sever the branch from the tree.

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Removing the branch at its base.

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After the branch is separated and the resulting wound.

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Cutting off the top portion of the grafted sapling as this part is no longer needed. What's left of it is the source that now will feed the severed branch.

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Close up and schematic illustrating part of the mechanics behind this technique. The short stub left behind the graft union will be made into a peg which will be inserted into a predrilled hole of the same depth and diameter at the desired new location. The green portion represents the exposed cambium that will butt right up against the new location which will also have the cambium exposed to ensure a good and solid graft union.

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Most of the main trunk is in much need of being repopulated with branches shown by the red line. Many were removed for one reason or another. I decided to use their original locations to graft new branches onto. The red arrow indicates the location where the original fourth trunk was. A large scar was left which is currently in the process of healing.

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The branch being placed in the new desired location to get a rough idea of what it will look like when it's grafted. But that will need to wait until next spring. Please stay tuned for phase two which will truly test my horticultural skills!

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Don't forget pixie dust!
But seriously te looks really good!
How deep wooden pots do you use?? I think mine are too deep after seeing this pic.


Thanks Max! This tree originally came in a pot. It was doing ok but I needed to get it stronger. So I decided to build a cedar box for it. The depth matched exactly the depth of the pot it was in. Grow boxes should be rather shallow to keep the roots flat and growing mostly sideways.
 
I think the stub end of the branch (to the right of the approach graft union in your last pic) is going to wither over the winter - it should have remained connected until next spring, I think.

But, let's assume I'm wrong, what is your plan to deal with the 'knob' of the approach graft?
 
I think the stub end of the branch (to the right of the approach graft union in your last pic) is going to wither over the winter - it should have remained connected until next spring, I think.

But, let's assume I'm wrong, what is your plan to deal with the 'knob' of the approach graft?


Not sure what it will do. Tough to say. I covered it with cut paste to protect it in any case. But I am not worried since this part, whether dead or alive, it will be made into a peg.

The approach graft knob will be dealt with after the branch has fused well into place. It will be cut off and dealt with much in the same way as any other cut. In retrospect I should have made the union on the other side so that you would not see the scar. But I think it will be ok once it heals.
 
I think the stub end of the branch (to the right of the approach graft union in your last pic) is going to wither over the winter - it should have remained connected until next spring, I think.

But, let's assume I'm wrong, what is your plan to deal with the 'knob' of the approach graft?
The “pegs” apparently continue to live. Mr Ebihara kept an inventory of dozens of branches already prepared that he could choose from when he needed to add a branch onto a trunk.

Great work, Sergio! Bravo!
 
The “pegs” apparently continue to live. Mr Ebihara kept an inventory of dozens of branches already prepared that he could choose from when he needed to add a branch onto a trunk.

Great work, Sergio! Bravo!


Grazie Maestro!
 
There is a video that exists of Mr Ebihara performing this technique. When I first saw it years ago I was so stunned that I watched it maybe 5 times in a row.
 
This is brilliant Sergio! Thanks for sharing - I feel inspired enough to give it a go myself!
 
Well done! Can you take a photo with the whole tree in the frame and the branch in the new location? I can't really tell where in the tree you are placing it.
 
I love seeing things like this. You can just imagine the original thought...
”That branch would look so much better over here, hang on a minute!”
Nice work.
 
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