Japanese Maple Propagation

[RockyGrowth]

Hello there. I’m quite new to bonsai in general and I was wondering what the best way was to getting started with Japanese maples. Currently I’ve potted a group of seeds from my backyard tree in hopes that they may sprout, however I doubt they will as I didn’t prepare too properly for the seeds. On the other hand I was wondering if it would be a good idea to air layer one of the branches in spring time, or try to grow out cuttings even though I’ve heard that cuttings don’t work too well for maples. Mainly I’m just wondering if there’s a better alternative than starting nursery stock, I would love to hear someone else’s opinion but thank you for your time.

 

[Jphipps]

Air layers are great if you can find some branches with interesting movement. Mark the spots where you want to air layer now in the winter time while the tree has no leaves. Use any kind of tag, etc that wraps around the branch that can be found later once the tree is in leaf. I use bright colored pipe cleaners, but anything works. Wait until the new growth in the spring hardens off, then do your air layers. This is a fast way to get an interesting new tree started.

 

[Maros]

If you want starter material all propagation methods on Acer palmatum works. Collect seeds and plant them now, you will have hundreds od seedlings to play with.
Cuttings works well for most species. Make your timing right (softwood taken from may-august works well, check my or other videos on YouTube).
Airlayers works well too, timing and merhod is important but it is definitely one of the best ways to obtain mature specimens.
Buying Andrea Meriggioli book on maples is good investment.
Last but not least, it is autumn and you probably can find some maples on sale in garden centers, bought myself few cultivars for half price, it is worth searching.

 

[Ininaatigoons]

Seeds are a great way to start. Variation is the spice of life and you may get some good ones. Small or interesting leaf and color. Long time to be anything though. I hate to put a time frame, but a couple decades at least is expected. You probably want to go with another option as well. Both alternatives listed are great! The biggest thing when starting out is first grow roots and trunk. Grow in ground or by consecutively larger pots. Grow the trunk diameter 3/4 finished thickness before the chop!

 

[RockyGrowth]

Air layers are great if you can find some branches with interesting movement. Mark the spots where you want to air layer now in the winter time while the tree has no leaves. Use any kind of tag, etc that wraps around the branch that can be found later once the tree is in leaf. I use bright colored pipe cleaners, but anything works. Wait until the new growth in the spring hardens off, then do your air layers. This is a fast way to get an interesting new tree started.

Thanks for the comment and all the comments from everyone else. More specifically for air layering, should there be anything specific I am looking out for besides trunk movement, for example areas where the trunk can branch off to?

 

[Ininaatigoons]

I have heard that when doing an airlayer that it will layer better just under a branch split. Underneath a crotch. This usually ends up with a twin trunk, but doesn't have to. I usually try to keep just under a branch. It doesn't have to be a big one, but these mark where there are likely to be latent buds. I usually trim the small branch off to fit the pouch and sphagnum moss. The branch to be layered should be about 1". Much less or more could take more time or maybe not work at all. I've watched Peter Chan on YouTube take huge air layers, but it was palmatum species, so I can't vouch for cultivar vigor. Much smaller it might not have the sap movement to want to be successful. Besides any smaller and a cutting wouldn't make too much difference.
To answer the question asked. YES! Look for an area that the first chop will be made. So best case scenario is you find an area of interesting movement just past a place where there are buds. That section will be 1/3 the length of your finished tree in mind and on top of that bend is a fork. Once the layer is done you grow it out until it's 3/4 the final thickness and hard chop one branch another 1/3 height of finished tree. The other branch is a sacrifice and can be removed anytime after that. When pruning maples remember to leave a stub just out from the trunk for die back.
You never mentioned what the maple was actually. In any case you'll want to include the proportions in your vision. If it's a Bloodgood vs a small leaved dwarf the size will have to be adjusted accordingly.
One last thing...
The more vertical a brach is, the better the chance is for even rooting. I've had horizontal branches that only rooted on the bottom. It's OK, but then you may have to try to induce roots or even graft roots on to the side that didn't take after harvesting the layer. Lastly... When you prep the air layer the top cut doesn't have to be exactly straight, but should reflect the angle in which you want your roots to grow. If you cut at an angle the roots will follow and the the layer can be planted at that angle. It might need some support until it's established, but that's another trick rarely mentioned.

 

[Hack Yeah!]

Any red or lace leaf palmatum will be harder to propagate, in general, just a heads up

 

[RockyGrowth]

I have heard that when doing an airlayer that it will layer better just under a branch split. Underneath a crotch. This usually ends up with a twin trunk, but doesn't have to. I usually try to keep just under a branch. It doesn't have to be a big one, but these mark where there are likely to be latent buds. I usually trim the small branch off to fit the pouch and sphagnum moss. The branch to be layered should be about 1". Much less or more could take more time or maybe not work at all. I've watched Peter Chan on YouTube take huge air layers, but it was palmatum species, so I can't vouch for cultivar vigor. Much smaller it might not have the sap movement to want to be successful. Besides any smaller and a cutting wouldn't make too much difference.
To answer the question asked. YES! Look for an area that the first chop will be made. So best case scenario is you find an area of interesting movement just past a place where there are buds. That section will be 1/3 the length of your finished tree in mind and on top of that bend is a fork. Once the layer is done you grow it out until it's 3/4 the final thickness and hard chop one branch another 1/3 height of finished tree. The other branch is a sacrifice and can be removed anytime after that. When pruning maples remember to leave a stub just out from the trunk for die back.
You never mentioned what the maple was actually. In any case you'll want to include the proportions in your vision. If it's a Bloodgood vs a small leaved dwarf the size will have to be adjusted accordingly.
One last thing...
The more vertical a brach is, the better the chance is for even rooting. I've had horizontal branches that only rooted on the bottom. It's OK, but then you may have to try to induce roots or even graft roots on to the side that didn't take after harvesting the layer. Lastly... When you prep the air layer the top cut doesn't have to be exactly straight, but should reflect the angle in which you want your roots to grow. If you cut at an angle the roots will follow and the the layer can be planted at that angle. It might need some support until it's established, but that's another trick rarely mentioned.

Sorry, took me a while to get photos but thanks for your response. To start, I haven’t identified yet what specific type of Japanese maple the tree is. Here’s a photo of one of the fall leaves if you want to have a guess. Otherwise I’ve also attached an image of one of the branches that I may try and layer but I would love to hear another opinion.
My only fear for the split branches is that they may overlap which I’ve heard isn’t great for the overall design. The yellow marking represents cuts / layer spot while the blue and green represents what I hope to accomplish down the line with the start of the tree if it layers properly.

 

[Ininaatigoons]

Looks good enough. I wouldn't go that high with the cut for the layer just a little shorter. I can't guess by leaves especially fall leaves, but not a hime type so you can go on the bigger side. It most definitely has equal limbs on both sides so probably going to be a twin trunk. The branches on there could possibly be trained in the right direction, but perhaps you'll have to start new branches for the trunk line. That decision will be early summer 2025 so you got time. Airlayer just after leaf push in Spring. Harvest next late summer. Trimming back a bit at that time. Wintering next winter and then the decision.

 

[tigerscott79]

If you want starter material all propagation methods on Acer palmatum works. Collect seeds and plant them now, you will have hundreds od seedlings to play with.
Cuttings works well for most species. Make your timing right (softwood taken from may-august works well, check my or other videos on YouTube).
Airlayers works well too, timing and merhod is important but it is definitely one of the best ways to obtain mature specimens.
Buying Andrea Meriggioli book on maples is good investment.
Last but not least, it is autumn and you probably can find some maples on sale in garden centers, bought myself few cultivars for half price, it is worth searching.

I am watching your videos , great works. On your Japanese maple cutting boxes , how often do you water them . I see you mention opening lids to keep humidity levels not to high or too low but did not see how often to water . thanks

 

[Maros]

I am watching your videos , great works. On your Japanese maple cutting boxes , how often do you water them . I see you mention opening lids to keep humidity levels not to high or too low but did not see how often to water . thanks

With substrate I use (zeolite) > don't have to water almost never. It keeps humid enough to sustain cuttings. I also rarely open the boxes, if so just for short periods of time. Works well. Im using it for Shin-Deshojo, Arakawa, Katsura and couple other cultivars. For example, Arakawa cuttings taken last days of August rooted in 4-5 weeks.

 

[tigerscott79]

With substrate I use (zeolite) > don't have to water almost never. It keeps humid enough to sustain cuttings. I also rarely open the boxes, if so just for short periods of time. Works well. Im using it for Shin-Deshojo, Arakawa, Katsura and couple other cultivars. For example, Arakawa cuttings taken last days of August rooted in 4-5 weeks.

Thank you for info, yes I've been watching your videos ansnmust say very good info and amazing plants and results. Thanks truly for taking time to respond means alot to me . You are very passionate ate about your work and it shows and is nice to watch you work and you explain things very well too. Keep up amazing videos

 

[Maros]

Thank you for info, yes I've been watching your videos ansnmust say very good info and amazing plants and results. Thanks truly for taking time to respond means alot to me . You are very passionate ate about your work and it shows and is nice to watch you work and you explain things very well too. Keep up amazing videos

Thanks tiger